What size as well thanks

 

they say pure T, but my machine is an inverter and has no problem holding a point on my red 2% thor T.

3/32"

 

2% Thorated is the correct tungsten for AC welding on an inverter machine. Pure tungsten is the most used for AC welding on a non inverter machine.

 

 

ive used both on my invertor machine with no problems what so ever. they say u cant use pure on the miller dynasties though............ at least i think i remember reading or hearing that somehere. oh and i use 3/32" thick tungston.

 

3/32 red on a transformer.


yes it works just fine.

 

I actually have been using 2% Lanthanated for quite some time now. I guess the thoriated stuff is slightly radioactive. So when you grind the tip, you can actually end up breathing in radioactive dust. The stuff welds great, and I don't feel so bad now, especially with how often I end up fabricating stuff.

 

100 percent on aluminum. 2 percent thor. on everything else. will work like a charm

 

Seems like the original question was answered so sorry if I'm hijacking this post. Does anyone have suggestions for machine settings for thin wall ic piping (aluminum). Do I need to back purge? I have a miller dynasty 200 dx I believe. The weld bead looks grainy at times and need to be wider/flatter..I am fairly new to tig, only been doing it for 6 months on and off. I am much better with steel/stainless even though many books I have read say aluminum should be the easiest. Does anyone have some pics of their aluminum ic piping welds (would like to see what I'm shooting for) Thanks!

 

If you could get your hands on Blue tungsten (2% Yttrium?) is a great tungsten for aluminum. If not then red does good.

 

I've got a Dynasty 200DX myself. There's been a bunch of discussion on the performance of the Dynasty 200 with aluminum.

Note that some of the early machines are reported to have had issues with the high-frequency boards; if you've had your machine for awhile, you can check with your dealer (have your serial number handy) to see if there's a service update. The HF board issue is NOT the cause of your grainy bead appearance however.

Things to check/do/look for:
- Tungsten preparation: Important regardless of what machine you're using, but worth mentioning. Electrode composition can boil down to personal preference. I use 1.5% or 2% lathanated. Lots of people prefer ceriated. For aluminum tube (I'm guessing .065" wall-ish?) I'd use a 3/32" electrode, groud to around a 20 degree taper, with a .020" flat on the end. DON'T USE PURE TUNGSTEN.

- Frequency: 60Hz. Stick with that until you're more proficient, and comfortable with the machine - then you can dig into the snazzy arc shaping features...

- Filler selection: You should select the correct filler for the application based on the alloy of what you're welding. For non-critical parts, and/or those where colour matching after anodizing doesn't matter, you can experiment with what suits you. 4043 tends to wet out a little easier, but some Dynasty users have mentioned having better bead appearance with 5356. Also, try grabbing some filler from a different supplier; some users had significantly different results based on brand of filler.

- Torch angle/heat control/speed: This is the biggie; these have the most siginificant impact on the end result. Practice, practice, practice.


Good luck,
Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snootworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got a Dynasty 200DX myself. There's been a bunch of discussion on the performance of the Dynasty 200 with aluminum.

Note that some of the early machines are reported to have had issues with the high-frequency boards; if you've had your machine for awhile, you can check with your dealer (have your serial number handy) to see if there's a service update. The HF board issue is NOT the cause of your grainy bead appearance however.

Things to check/do/look for:
- Tungsten preparation: Important regardless of what machine you're using, but worth mentioning. Electrode composition can boil down to personal preference. I use 1.5% or 2% lathanated. Lots of people prefer ceriated. For aluminum tube (I'm guessing .065" wall-ish?) I'd use a 3/32" electrode, groud to around a 20 degree taper, with a .020" flat on the end. DON'T USE PURE TUNGSTEN.

- Frequency: 60Hz. Stick with that until you're more proficient, and comfortable with the machine - then you can dig into the snazzy arc shaping features...

- Filler selection: You should select the correct filler for the application based on the alloy of what you're welding. For non-critical parts, and/or those where colour matching after anodizing doesn't matter, you can experiment with what suits you. 4043 tends to wet out a little easier, but some Dynasty users have mentioned having better bead appearance with 5356. Also, try grabbing some filler from a different supplier; some users had significantly different results based on brand of filler.

- Torch angle/heat control/speed: This is the biggie; these have the most siginificant impact on the end result. Practice, practice, practice.


Good luck,
Mike
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im a Dynasty DX 200 owner as well. Since you have expierience with the machine what amps and output are you using? Are you pulsing?

 

On my dynasty 200 3/32 orange, and on my sync 200 3/32 red or green

 

Thanks for the tips Mike! Why is it every book I have read it says to use pure on aluminum? I am also curious as to how good the bead can look on thinwall aluminum? I just measured the stuff I have and its .050. I can make ok looking stuff on plate aluminum..This stuff is polished as well..Maybe I have to clean it better too. Does anyone have pics of their work on al tubing? One more thing what is the difference between inverter/non-inverted machines? Which category would the 200 dx fall into?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dubmekanik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the tips Mike! Why is it every book I have read it says to use pure on aluminum? I am also curious as to how good the bead can look on thinwall aluminum? I just measured the stuff I have and its .050. I can make ok looking stuff on plate aluminum..This stuff is polished as well..Maybe I have to clean it better too. Does anyone have pics of their work on al tubing? One more thing what is the difference between inverter/non-inverted machines? Which category would the 200 dx fall into?</TD></TR></TABLE>


most books are wrote by old timers, pure is for older transformer machines.

the difference in transformer to inverter is how they manage current. inverters usually have more control over the arc as well

edit: all the dynasty series are inverters (we have a dynasty 200 at work, i like the squarewave 255 better though)

cleaning aluminum is very important. i wire brush the material(w/ an aluminum only brush as to not contaminate the weld) then brake clean and blow it off with compressed air.

we dont do much pipe-pipe w/ aluminum but if i remember correctly 85amps should be good. if you havent touched tubing before you should def practice alot. its burns away instantly if you are even a little hot

 

great info Thanks for the response

 

I do ALOT of thin wall aluminum intercooler piping. I reccomend starting out at about 70hz, and 75 amps... tops!

I have an HTP invertig 201, and I think I recall that the last time I did some nice welds on some .065 intercooler piping, I was at about 120hz, and between 65-75 amps.

The thing is, initially youll need more current to heat up the material, and as your finishing the joint, you need MUCH less, since your work piece is already hot. Typical rule of thumb I believe is 1 amp per thousandth of material. I believe thats correct. So like .065" aluminum, I run about 65-70 amps.

I am trying to dig up some pictures of some welds on piping I have done, not much on the website. Hope that helped some?

 

actually, the diferrence is an inverter is using solid state circuitry; computer boards and MOSFETs. non-inverter is a transformer machine. hence why one weighs 20lbs, the equal output transf. machine weighs 150lbs

 

inverter machines FTMFW!

 

We need pics!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dubmekanik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We need pics! </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

http://www.millermotorsports.c...minum

Wondering if there's any input from guys on here using this machine (dynasty 200 dx) This pretty much describes my issue. I have adjusted my machine settings as per previous posters suggestions, and I am really happy with the welds now other than the graininess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dubmekanik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.millermotorsports.c...minum

Wondering if there's any input from guys on here using this machine (dynasty 200 dx) This pretty much describes my issue. I have adjusted my machine settings as per previous posters suggestions, and I am really happy with the welds now other than the graininess. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Post up some pic's of your welds, I think you just need to practice more. You sure your tungsten or filler isnt contaminated. Wipe off your filler rod with acetone before you weld and use fresh ground tungsten.

 

I did all that..I used this machine a while ago on aluminum piping and the welds looked smooth. If you follow that link on page 6 or 7 there were some pics posted that look exactly like mine. I will get a few up in a little while . Thanks!

 

http://img21.imagevenue.com/im...3.jpg

They look like this as far as the graininess goes..