how the hell do u remove this thing

 

get a 5/8 punch, grab a 2lb sledge and knock it till it finally comes out. am air hammer of course is best for this but I assume you have to do it the hard way, hench the term "bitch pin". It is not that bad with the hammer and punch but the more room you have to swing the better off you'll be

 

You click on the search button.
Enter the words “bitch pin” click on “archived” and then click search.
Browse through the 46 results and find many techniques to include pictures, to remove the bitch pin.
Damn someone should put that in the FAQ

 

I used two small metal plates with bolts on each end to hold it together and a bolt in the middle the same diameter of the pin and came out very easily.

 

http://www.performanceforum.co....html

there you go

Wes

 

i forget what size but i use a real small 1/4 standard deep well socket with a short extension. Thats what i have found works best. I also seen a while back on here that there was a tool that a company was making for it.

 

Matco has a tool that works with your air hammer...a punch and hammer work too but its hard to get a good swing if you are not working on a rack

Thing is, unless you are swapping out trannys or something I usually just leave it connected to the tranny when doing a clutch swap

 

its very simple.

grab an a/c compressor bolt along with a hammer of your choice and just take a couple swings at it. This method took me about 10 seconds

Although the motor was out when i removed the pin, makes it much easier.

you dont need any special tools, clamps or any of that bs, just use one of the a/c compressor bolts.

if your in the process of pulling a motor, dont even expletive with this pin yet. Just undo the 2 shifter bolts and pull the motor out with the linkage attached and hammer the pin out then.

 

Remove the shift linkage at the bottom of the shifter and then work on the "bitch pin" with the tranny out of the car, on the garage floor......much easier.......good luck

 

can u really do that r u sure it wont bend the linkage ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by veritasaequatis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can u really do that r u sure it wont bend the linkage ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf??? bend the linkage?? no not unless you knock the **** out of the linkage directly missing the bitch pin by like 10 inches! there are NO worries of bending the linkage, your hitting the pin at the end of the linkage, not the linkage itself and yes, it can take quite a bit of abuse.


you think all these people would respond to you like this w/o mentioning bending the linkage if that were ever an issue?

 

Do you guys put the pin back on or can you replace it with bolt with a locking nut?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reydio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you guys put the pin back on or can you replace it with bolt with a locking nut? </TD></TR></TABLE>
just put the pin back in cause a bolt and nut may not hold it as firmly in place as the pin does. a nut and bolt would maybe bind up as well when shifting but not positive about that, Honda designed it that way for a reason so I say just reuse it like they intended. besides it's not really that hard to reinstall


Modified by VtecSyndrome at 4:01 PM 8/12/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reydio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you guys put the pin back on or can you replace it with bolt with a locking nut? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldnt reccomend that unless the bolt is exactly the same diameter as the hole in the linkage because you will have alot of play in the shifter. If it is exactly the same diameter it would be just as hard to get out because it will prob get coroded.
Thats why the pin is hard to get in and out.

ive done it on at least 20 diff cars and ive only had trouble with 1. I just PB blaster'd it and came back in 30 min and it came right out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i wouldnt reccomend that unless the bolt is exactly the same diameter as the hole in the linkage because you will have alot of play in the shifter. If it is exactly the same diameter it would be just as hard to get out because it will prob get coroded.
Thats why the pin is hard to get in and out.

ive done it on at least 20 diff cars and ive only had trouble with 1. I just PB blaster'd it and came back in 30 min and it came right out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

^^x2

 

i meant leaving it on the tranny till its out by removing it from the shifter

 

excellent! That explains the extra sloppy feel in some ppls cars i'm in that have swaps.

thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by veritasaequatis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i meant leaving it on the tranny till its out by removing it from the shifter</TD></TR></TABLE>

either way you are still hitting the end of the linkage so no, you are not in danger of bending the linkage.......unless you have the aim of ray charles and even then you would prob only dent it.

 

do you mean bend it if you keep it on the tranny wile taking the engine out of the car? then yes, iv done it lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by janz3n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you mean bend it if you keep it on the tranny wile taking the engine out of the car? then yes, iv done it lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

???? how do you bend it? if pulling from the top just keep moving the engine lift back until the shifter clears from under the car and will get into engine bay. Are you trying to just lift the motor straight up in the air with the linkage still way under the car????

It also helps to remove that bolt that connects the 2 pieces of the linkage together. Just easier to maneuver the shifter so it will clear the bay.

and yes just re use the pin unless you already have a new one on hand. Just be carefull when putting it back in.

 

exactly waht u said if u take it off the shifter with the tranny still attached

 

Well not exactly, the sloppy feeling can also be the plactic bushings in the linkage connects together.
honda has this revited together so it cant be easily replaced.
If the shifter is feeling sloppy look @ the bushings.
If you plan on keeping the car i would go oem honda for a new one. I think its under 100$ but im not positive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reydio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you guys put the pin back on or can you replace it with bolt with a locking nut? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I put the pin back, but I also add a small hose clamp over the Honda c clip......

 

I had a real hard time removing the "bitch" pin as well:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1993271

I tried several different methods. AC compressor bolt, pin punches, the c-clamp/socket trick. Someone mentioned a Matco tool above and that's the method I went.


http://www.matcotools.com/Cata...age=4
Matco Part#: MST6455
only took 3 hits with a hammer. 10 seconds and it was out.

 

umm search

or read the effin rules

CRX / EF Civic Forum Rules | Trial User info « » 1:45 PM 12/13/2002 Reply Edit

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