Flush the cooling system, yes or no?
I really need an answer to this post:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2067557
<FONT COLOR="green">Here is the gist if you really don't want to read all of that stuff...</FONT>
Because it is the weekend and I need to get started if I am going to do this. My '95 Honda Civic Del Sol has 119K miles on it. I changed the upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, and radiator cap. Before putting in a gallon of $8 coolant, should I flush the system with "Zerex Radiator Super Flush", "10 Minute Flush"?
Is there any benefit to doing that and would it help or hurt the car. I need an answer quickly please, the weekend is here and I need to get started. Thank you.
Paul
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2067557
<FONT COLOR="green">Here is the gist if you really don't want to read all of that stuff...</FONT>
Because it is the weekend and I need to get started if I am going to do this. My '95 Honda Civic Del Sol has 119K miles on it. I changed the upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat, and radiator cap. Before putting in a gallon of $8 coolant, should I flush the system with "Zerex Radiator Super Flush", "10 Minute Flush"?
Is there any benefit to doing that and would it help or hurt the car. I need an answer quickly please, the weekend is here and I need to get started. Thank you.
Paul
I'm not sure about that product, but flushing the system with distilled water from your grocery store is your best bet. It's really cheap to buy, by the gallon and it better than using water from the tap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure about that product, but flushing the system with distilled water from your grocery store is your best bet. It's really cheap to buy, by the gallon and it better than using water from the tap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree 100% with this statement. just make sure you burp the system or it will overheat.
i agree 100% with this statement. just make sure you burp the system or it will overheat.
Finally an answer! So flushing the system is a good idea then. I am not sure what the product does, let me read the bottle, BRB...
...The stuff was pretty cheap, like $3 for a 22 Oz. bottle, made by Valvoline. The product claims to:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Zerex Super Flush with it's powerful patented cleaning agents restores cooling system efficiency by removing rust, scale, and oily residues. Can be used on all cooling system metals including aluminum. For hard to remove corrosion deposits, use Zerex Super Cleaner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Contains: Dispersants, EDTA , Tetrasodium Salt, (64-02-8), Surfactants, Water (7732-18-45)</TD></TR></TABLE>
All I want for it to do is to remove any loose scale or deposits that might be building up by now in the cooling system which could in fact, restrict water flow through the cooling system. I don't want no crud in there that will cause air bubbles to form or be impossible to get out of the system (This car can get air in the cooling system, I have seen it, and until it all gets out, you will have cooling issues. Once all the air gets out though, it runs like a dream, all the time, even with the A/C on full time.).
So you have used distilled water in your car(s)? Did it make a difference or did you see the water come out cruddy and dirty and then eventually come out nice and clean? Did you do this because the car had a lot of miles on it or because you were working on the cooling system?
Thanks for the quick reply, I really do need answers to this question today.
Cheers,
Paul
...The stuff was pretty cheap, like $3 for a 22 Oz. bottle, made by Valvoline. The product claims to:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Zerex Super Flush with it's powerful patented cleaning agents restores cooling system efficiency by removing rust, scale, and oily residues. Can be used on all cooling system metals including aluminum. For hard to remove corrosion deposits, use Zerex Super Cleaner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Contains: Dispersants, EDTA , Tetrasodium Salt, (64-02-8), Surfactants, Water (7732-18-45)</TD></TR></TABLE>
All I want for it to do is to remove any loose scale or deposits that might be building up by now in the cooling system which could in fact, restrict water flow through the cooling system. I don't want no crud in there that will cause air bubbles to form or be impossible to get out of the system (This car can get air in the cooling system, I have seen it, and until it all gets out, you will have cooling issues. Once all the air gets out though, it runs like a dream, all the time, even with the A/C on full time.).
So you have used distilled water in your car(s)? Did it make a difference or did you see the water come out cruddy and dirty and then eventually come out nice and clean? Did you do this because the car had a lot of miles on it or because you were working on the cooling system?
Thanks for the quick reply, I really do need answers to this question today.
Cheers,
Paul
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "pynikal" »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree 100% with this statement. just make sure you burp the system or it will overheat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So you agree with ke98248, distilled water would work but the most important thing is to burp the system or it will overheat. Now this is something that I have become all too familiar with. I have seen it in my car, I get an air bubble in there and can usually tell it is a bubble because now I am driving with one eye on the temperature gauge and one eye on the road, the temperature is climbing way up high, almost right at the H and then you go around a corner and accelerate and then suddenly, the temperature comes right back down, really fast, to just about normal. It may or may not stay there and then climb up again, but only an air bubble could explain temperature gauge behavior like that, IMHO.
So what is the best way to burp the cooling system? What I learned from here from hatchling37 https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2065336 is to run it with the cap off and let it heat up. Then squeeze the lower radiator hose until no more air bubbles come out, then shut off the engine, top off the radiator, top off the reservoir, and you are done. This seemed to work pretty well, would you agree with this, pynikal?
Thanks,
Paul
So you agree with ke98248, distilled water would work but the most important thing is to burp the system or it will overheat. Now this is something that I have become all too familiar with. I have seen it in my car, I get an air bubble in there and can usually tell it is a bubble because now I am driving with one eye on the temperature gauge and one eye on the road, the temperature is climbing way up high, almost right at the H and then you go around a corner and accelerate and then suddenly, the temperature comes right back down, really fast, to just about normal. It may or may not stay there and then climb up again, but only an air bubble could explain temperature gauge behavior like that, IMHO.
So what is the best way to burp the cooling system? What I learned from here from hatchling37 https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2065336 is to run it with the cap off and let it heat up. Then squeeze the lower radiator hose until no more air bubbles come out, then shut off the engine, top off the radiator, top off the reservoir, and you are done. This seemed to work pretty well, would you agree with this, pynikal?
Thanks,
Paul
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