who can CNC a custom shop press die?
A die like what I visualize you need does not require a CNC and can be run inexpensively on a lathe.
Im not trying to sound smartass-like.
Im not trying to sound smartass-like.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ROTARY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the shape is rectangular and tapered.
i didn't take it as a smart-*** comment
, i should have mentioned the shape in my first post.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Am I assuming you're trying to neck the pipe down? You won't really be able to add a taper to any pipe with a shop press simply with a tapered die - it will crush the pipe out and pinch it at the tapered end. The typical way to do is is the spin the pipe on a special lathe, then hammer it down gradually with a special die thats internal and external. Of course this assumes you'll use it as I'm thinking, so no offense intended
i didn't take it as a smart-*** comment
, i should have mentioned the shape in my first post.</TD></TR></TABLE>Am I assuming you're trying to neck the pipe down? You won't really be able to add a taper to any pipe with a shop press simply with a tapered die - it will crush the pipe out and pinch it at the tapered end. The typical way to do is is the spin the pipe on a special lathe, then hammer it down gradually with a special die thats internal and external. Of course this assumes you'll use it as I'm thinking, so no offense intended
random idea on a way to flare the pipe to match the flange.
basically the wedge block bolts to the flange. the die is slightly under size of the flange hole when completely expanded, and is machined small enough to fit inside the pipe completely collapsed. a couple bolts into each die block go through guide slots in the wedge block. then the wedge, which is tapered to match the die blocks, is bolted loosely to the wedge block with a large bolt. cherry the pipe, slip the flange assembly on the end, and hit it with an impact. should be able to stretch the pipe to match the flange.
any one think it will work? There is definitely an easier way, but I can't think of it right now.
basically the wedge block bolts to the flange. the die is slightly under size of the flange hole when completely expanded, and is machined small enough to fit inside the pipe completely collapsed. a couple bolts into each die block go through guide slots in the wedge block. then the wedge, which is tapered to match the die blocks, is bolted loosely to the wedge block with a large bolt. cherry the pipe, slip the flange assembly on the end, and hit it with an impact. should be able to stretch the pipe to match the flange.
any one think it will work? There is definitely an easier way, but I can't think of it right now.
Rosko - thanks for helping, the shape im looking for is like your top picture but the top the same shape as the bottom and just a bit smaller than 2" measured diagonally.
i think that keeping the rectangular shape from the start would require less pressure since the corners take up less surface area then the circular shape.
i think that keeping the rectangular shape from the start would require less pressure since the corners take up less surface area then the circular shape.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ROTARY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rosko - thanks for helping, the shape im looking for is like your top picture but the top the same shape as the bottom and just a bit smaller than 2" measured diagonally.
i think that keeping the rectangular shape from the start would require less pressure since the corners take up less surface area then the circular shape.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what do the dimensions of the flange side need to be? how tall does the punch need to be?
i think that keeping the rectangular shape from the start would require less pressure since the corners take up less surface area then the circular shape.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what do the dimensions of the flange side need to be? how tall does the punch need to be?
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