Last night I was trying to remove the rear sway bar so I can install the new one this morning. The problem is that I couldn't remove the bolts at each end of the sway bar. I can put a wrench on the nut side, but the bolt side is covered in a rubber boot and a linkage piece. When I turn the nut the whole bolt moves with it so I can never get it off. I was wondering if I'm supposed to somehow remove the endlink on the bolt side, so I can put something on the bolt too.

Just happened to go by dealership today for my passenger window problem, and the service guy went "well, you'll probably have to cut the bolt off and end up with a new link and bolt." I was gonna say the instruction I got just says remove the bolts, doesn't say anything about breaking the bolt. But from the look of him I'm pretty sure he have yet to work on it himself.

So what's up with it? Anyone who have other than stock sway bar can let me in the details?

 

two wrenches or sockets
one on each side.


It took Michael Bolton and I about 10 minutes both under the car to install his bar

 

So how do you remove the endlink covering the top of the bolt side? Just use screwdriver and prey it off? It's pretty snug, I don't want to break unless someone says that is how it's supposed to be done.

 

REMEMBER the suspesnion should be under load when doin this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MessGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">REMEMBER the suspesnion should be under load when doin this </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

you mean the tires need to touch the ground? I couldn't get under if it's on the ground...

 

Load the suspension with the jacks (ie use jacks or jack stands to load it).

 

what's the consquence of not loading it? I can only get like another 1 extra jack stand at the most, could I do one side at a time that way?

 

you can also use vice grips which i thought was easier to hold the nut that spins. i think its much easier that way.
try to find someone that has those ramps that you drive up on, i have em and the worked great

 

IDK what the consequences are, i just told you how to load your suspension. As mentioned above ramps. **** go pull into a driveway. If i had to guess tho i would say that not loading it you aren't going to be able to line the holes up. One side at a time may work.

 

you need an allen wrench to stop the bolt from turning with the nut. at the end of the bolt there is place to put the allen wrench in.

 

cool thanks guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael Bolton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can also use vice grips which i thought was easier to hold the nut that spins. i think its much easier that way.
try to find someone that has those ramps that you drive up on, i have em and the worked great</TD></TR></TABLE>

What Michael said. You can pick up a pair of ramps for about 40 bucks at Pepboys. Makes it easy to get under the car for these types of jobs, as well as makes it easy to clean under the car.

 

cool, I'll be looking into the ramps. Thanks for info

 

Ok, I have it installed. New question though, is it normal to hear poping sound while driving right after the install? I drove like 100+ miles yesterday and it was poping at the very start, but by the end of the trip, it was gone.

 

A faw days have passed.. does it still make noise?

 

nope, no more noise.

I bought the ramps and checking it like every other day, and I don't see nothing wrong with it. So I guess I'm good to go now

 

Glad to hear it, I dunno why so many people had problems with this, i did mine alone, and had the car on jackstands, wasnt a hard install at all. At first I thought I had the wrong part but that was my own idiocy.