Well the distributer in my car is still not working correctly.

Some background,

My orginal dizzy started throwing a CYP error. Wasn't really sure what this meant but everybody said, you gotta get a new dizzy.

After some research I went with a distrubitor king.

So fast forward about a month or two, rpms would get stuck at 7k or so. Cleaning the contacts/replacing on the rotor/cap fixed the problem.


So I got to expo thinking everything is fine and what do you know problem came up again. So I go to autozone get a cap and rotor, fixed the problem again temp.

When I got home I decided to take apart this dizzy and see whats the deal. At the same time I tore apart my Real Type R dizzy to compare/swap parts if need be.

Everything looked fine with the distributor from dizzy king.

The real Type R dizzy though didn't look so good "ha". The screw backed out that held the rotor on and tore up some stuff. the screw was lodged inside the top sensor (sensor with the magnet that mounts on top of the base plate for the shaft), and chipped some of the material off the shaft.

So I tried to salvage all the parts from the real type r dizzy and go from there.

I took the distributor king contents, shaft and sensors and put them into the orginal type r housing and used the orginal coil.

So nothing really too serious. I hooked everything back up and I looked good or so I thought. After the driving the car If I would let it sit for so long maybe 5 min. The car would get heat soaked? I guess and then all hell would break lose. Car would fuel cut at exactlly 3.5k. Now this only happend when the engine bay say high temps. If you got the car moving the engine bay would cool down (Air flow) and the car would act normal again. Well I dealt with this for a little bit, but it finally pissed me off the other day so I took it out to look.

I decieded to use all sensors from the oem R dizzy execpt for the shaft and sensor that messed up (Im assuming this sensor is the CYP.

So I cut off the sensor and solidered up the other dizzy king sensor to the chain of sensors.

I also used the dizzy king shaft still since the oem is messed up. I had to do some grinding on the shaft mounting plate to make the oem sensor (Not sure what sensor this is but its the one that takes all of the connections) fit.

So now what do I have? I have a OEM housing, with a modifed distributer king shaft, with 2 bottom sensors being oem and the top sensor being a distributor king. The plastic sesnor is oem as well.

I plugged everythign back in and now im at the same point where I started I get a CYP error .

Now this brings up the question. I really need to know what sensor is what.



So is the very top sensor the CYP? or is it in the sensor located on the left of the drawing.... Any help on what sensor is what would really help. Im not sure if the problem lies with the sensor I soildered in or is it another OEM sensor that is causing the problem.

Sorry for the long post.

Thanks
-Dan

 

Were you the CW I saw at Autozone right near Sleep Inn during the Expo? I was the PY buying some lithium grease? And sorry I cant help lol.

 

Yep that was me.

 

Check for continuity on all the sensors. Also make sure the CYP wires are not mixed. One is a lead and the other a ground. Also check to see if the wiring is shielded. If it is, this could cause a problem. The CYP syncs with the CKP to control the fuel/timing, so if one is throwing a code, the car won't run right, and the early fuel cut is more than likely limp mode.

When you soldered the wires, the exposed ends should be straight, with one lying on top of the other, not twisted or looped. This can cause a problem.

This is what caused my car not being at Expo, but mine was the CKP sensor.

 

So is the top sensor the CYP? I didn't know one was a lead and one was a ground, so I might need to swap those. The wires arn't looped or twisted there layed on top with a slight twist then soildered then heatshrink wrap on top of that.

But I want to confirm that its the very top sensor (According to my drawing) and not the plastic sensor on the left.

Actually if someone could name all the sensors that would be wonderful.

 

So its the top sensor. The one I rewired. I guess I need to reverse my wires.


Is that little plastic thing even a sensor? (The thing I drew on my drawing to the very left) Or is it just a junction box with some passive componets?

 

Not sure, I get a headache looking at your art skillz. Might want to go to walmart and get some scotch connectors. Cut the wire and use those to make sure you rewire it correctly. If that fixes it, then take the connectors off and solder the wires.

 

I just assumed they were wired wrong. I took it apart and rewired and all is working great. Thanks for the help.

 

I just purchased a distributor from Distributor King as well, and what do you know.. it throws a CYP CEL right off the bat (code 9).

From your personal experience in this whole mess, would you recommend I try to rewire it myself? Or call up DK and just keep getting exchanges until I get one that works properly. My OEM distributor stopped sparking altogether, so it's not an option to swap parts.

I checked the distributor harness with a multimeter (following directions in Haynes) and the resistance was like 399-400 ohms for all three sensors, whereas the book says it needs to be between 500 and 1000 for 96-99 Integras. Checked some other cars and they were within their specs..

 

I personally wouldn't buy from them again. My distributer worked fine or appeared to for however long and then, my tach started jumping.

So I would just try to send it back and and get your money back.

Whats actaully wrong with your distributer? You tried a new coil right? Once you take the distributer apart you will soon see its not that complicated. Try to find out whats wrong with yours then buy an old oem one, doesn't really matter if its ODB1 depending on the part. Then just replace it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citrus3000psi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally wouldn't buy from them again. My distributer worked fine or appeared to for however long and then, my tach started jumping.

So I would just try to send it back and and get your money back.

Whats actaully wrong with your distributer? You tried a new coil right? Once you take the distributer apart you will soon see its not that complicated. Try to find out whats wrong with yours then buy an old oem one, doesn't really matter if its ODB1 depending on the part. Then just replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Funny how a company with 100% positive feedback on ebay can sell something so inconsistent. I had several local Honda owners vouch for the DK distributors..

I'm not 100% sure what's wrong with my OEM one. After I put the head back on, from replacing the burnt valve, I had everything wired up and ready to go. Tried to start the car, and it wouldn't start. Realized it wasn't sparking at all. Put my friends 00 Civic Si distributor on, and it fired right up, albeit with a flashing CEL.

So I figured the problem was a fried distributor (how?? I have no clue..) and replaced it with the DK. Since then, it's had a CEL. I ran it at home with the DIY method (counting the flashes) and it's #9 for CYP sensor. I ran it at Autozone and it shows up as just a random misfire. Which is obviously being caused by something wrong with the distributor.

I didn't try a new coil in it yet.. like I said, I just assumed a brand new DK distributor would solve the problem. That is, until I started reading into the CYP sensor problem and all that. I guess tonight I'll do what you did and start swapping parts around and see what happens. I guess the first thing to try would just be to swap the DK coil, rotor, and cap into the OEM unit?

 

If the harness is original and not rewired, all you have to do is repin it, which is very simple and fast.

 

To give you an alternative to Distributor King, I purchased a remanufactured distributor from Import Replacement Parts, and it came with a 1 year warranty.
Just recently, I had a CYP code 9 that would come on after ~15 minutes of driving. The car ran fine, so it was more of an annoyance, but even after 2 years of installation, they were able to get the manufacturer to cover the distributor under warranty.

Going the extra mile
Bad dizzys

PS - New unit works great

 

You might want to make sure that little spring is still in the coil. Might have fell out and your coil just isn't making contact.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To give you an alternative to Distributor King, I purchased a remanufactured distributor from Import Replacement Parts, and it came with a 1 year warranty.
Just recently, I had a CYP code 9 that would come on after ~15 minutes of driving. The car ran fine, so it was more of an annoyance, but even after 2 years of installation, they were able to get the manufacturer to cover the distributor under warranty.

Going the extra mile
Bad dizzys

PS - New unit works great </TD></TR></TABLE>

Basically.. it looks like all I need to do is replace the CYP sensor from the DK dizzy with the CYP sensor from the OEM dizzy. Only way to do that is to start rewiring

The coil in the OEM dizzy was done for.. all the spring and all that was intact. Not sure how exactly the coil died.. but it did.

 

Swapping dist guts is actually really simple. Only hard part is pulling the sensor wires through the small gasket where they exit the dist housing.