I've searched and most all threads are dealing with a h23 block and h22 head.

I have a pre 98 jdm h22 block and from the little I have read the h23 crank and rods will fit.

A few questions I haven't found:

1) What h22 piston to get 12:1? I will be using type s cams on down the line if this makes any difference on dome height.

2) I read the crank hits the oil squirters...would having the crank lightened or knife edged (both?) eliminate the need to bend them?

3) I know this changes the stroke...does the piston end up sticking out of the top of the deck far enough to mess with the rings coming to close to the top?

4) Will the h22 flywheel bolt up to the h23 crank? Likewise with the crank pulley?

Thanks for reading!

 

1) the type-s piston will get you the closest

2) it may. I know on my forged piston setup it hit the piston as well and was hard to find a happy medium where it cleared both.

3) piston sticks out .02" biggest thing to watch out for is piston to valve clearance

4) yup.


btw the bare H23 and H22 blocks are identical (pre 98 of course)

 

How much would you have to remove from the counter balance weights on the crank for it to clear the squirters?

 

just bend the squirter's out of the way
they wont hit the factory honda pistons

 

Well I was thinking of having the crank lightened a bit so I figured I could take care of the clearance problem there....its the counterweights that hit on the squirters correct?

 

keeping my questions in one thread

Heres a few more...

5) If I lighten the crank and get a lightened flywheel will the stock rods hold 12:1 and a redline above stock? Got a little debate here at the shop. I think they are fine but another tech thinks they will come apart.

6) Cam choice for : 12:1, h23 lower end, pnp head, skunk2 intake, hondata. Type s for more low end, or since its stroked go for a more upper end hp (and more useable rpms) ? BTW Jun is outta the price range here

Thanks for reading!

 

have the rods balanced and checked over and also use new rod bolts and they should be fine. In the motors I've built (and blew up) the pistons always seemed to be the wekest link when it comes to really revving the hell out of a motor.

as for the cams keep in mind that if you go with oem pistons the valve reliefs won't be all that deep like an aftermarket piston would be. combine that with the fact that your piston is going to stick out of the hole ~.02" and you may run into some piston to valve issues with too big of a cam. its a good idea to check all the clearances very carefully with the h23 vtec (as is with any motor build) If you do run into problems though you can always run a thicker headgasket and sacrifice a bit of compression. imo I would go with the type-s cams for your build.

 

just send the pistons to the machine shop and let them open the valve reliefs


Modified by alterdcreations at 7:16 PM 8/22/2007

 

Ok got a US block we had laying around apart today. Set the f22 crank in and it just barely touched the squirters with it knife edged and a couple casting marks removed the squirters should be fine without bending.

I'm gonna go with the type s cams, and type s pistons I think after much brain scratching.

Some more questions.....

7) With this type s piston it was said this will get me the closest to 12:1...is that less than 12:1 or a little more?
If it is less that 12:1 on a stock headgasket how much should I mill the head to be 12:1 or a little over?

8)Will I have a problem with the type s cams and valve clearance? Or was that just an issue with the aftermarket cams?