When I first got the car running from the engine swap (still f22 vtec) I had a problem with the car idling at 1500 rpms while cold (prior to the swap it was 1k rpms), and when the car warmed up the idle wouldn't drop, and the radiator fans never come on.

I checked the fast idle valve in the throttle body, it seems to be breathing just find, as far as I can tell all wires and sensors are hooked up now, and I turned the fast idle screw down all the way so the car would idle at 1000 rpms cold.

I drove the car into Atlanta tonight, about a 20 minute trip. Now I notice that when the car is in neutral, or the clutch is depressed, and the car is still moving, the idle stays at 2k rpms. When the car comes to a complete stop, then the idle drops to 1500 rpms... even when nice and warm. I checked the radiator fans, and they still aren't coming on, either. The car doesn't seem to be having any temperature problems, the temp gauge reads exactly as it used to.

Does anyone have any suggestions at all?

 

Ajust your idle screw on the throttle body and or check your throttle cable and make sure there is not too much tension on the line.. Either of those two things will cause your car to rev higher than normal..

 

Yeah, the first thing Helms recommends is adjustment of the idle screw.

 

check all vaccum lines/connections from the manifold and going to the plethora of all sensors.....

or if you did not cross something somewhere....

 

How's your air filter doing? If it is dirty, your car will be idling at high rpm's all day long.

 

huh?!?!?!?!?!?

how so?

when my filter is dirty it will idle lower b/c its not sucking in enough air at once....

 

The car uses the cruise control actuator to adjust the idle if it is too low.

 

Okay, unless the idle screw has a non-ratio effect on the idle itself, (which I doubt because the more I turned it one way, the lower the idle went) I can't adjust it any more, it's turned all the way in the direction that lowers the rpms.

I've checked all electrical and vacuum connections, all seem to be okay for the most part.

As far as being linked to the cruise control... cruise control hasn't worked on my car since before I put the new engine in, but the idle was always okay, so I doubt it's a related issue.

As far as the throttle cable being too tight, I'll check the Haynes manual, but I don't think it's covered. How do I check the tension and loosen/tighten it if I need to? Wish I had a Helms...

Um, I doubt the air filter theory is accurate, but I throroughly cleaned it before I put it back on the AEM.

Comments?

 

i dont have cruise

 

There are two nuts that hold the cable to a certain point.. All you have to do is loosen then and make the cable as slack as possible.. Then make sure that the throttle spring is released all the way. (The curved spring on the throttle body that the line hooks into).. After that start the car and see if you idle problems remain high.. If not then problem fixed, just tighten nuts again till you have the right tension..

If not then you definately have a leak somewhere...

 

Misa, you're my human bs meter.

You got aim, y0?

 

Thanks, I'll check that out when I get back from getting my car aligned.

 

, yeah man, im still under the same screen name, you should still be on my buddy list, but im not on work anymore b/c there is just too much crap to be done, H-T distracts me enough

 

It does this to us all...

 

Heh, I lost my buddy list just before AIM started storing buddy lists remotely, so um, I guess just IM me when you see me on later tonight and smack me around a little.

 

ok, yeah done, ill hit yu0 up later tonight, looks like ill be in the office again

 

K, I took a look at the throttle cables, and they have slack in them already, should I still try to loosen them?

 

No if the cable has slack then you either have a vacumm leak or distributor/ignition problems...

 

Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly

Faulty spark plug wires

Vacuum leaks

Incorrect ignition timing

Uneven or low compression

 

Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly
New plugs, gapped them properly myself.

Faulty spark plug wires
New wires too, even switched to my old wires, no change.

Vacuum leaks
Possibility, I seem to be missing two vacuum lines that hook up to the metal flange at the back that has two pipes on it, I'll post a pic if you don't know wtf I'm talking about.

Incorrect ignition timing
Did timing myself, set at 15 degrees TDC at 1k rpms as called for.

Uneven or low compression
Tested compression in engine just before swap, all cylinders are good and within specs.