it says "Requires use of Mugen low-temp thermostat" whereever you look, will the fan switch work with stock thermo stat or just not work at all without mugen stat ?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zero...74656

 

thanks , i will be getting the thermostat but just tempted to run switch alone while i have it until i get the stat, gettin new rad and fan anyway

 

The thermostat has nothing to do with your fan switch.

Fan switch: Works off of the coolant temperature sensor - when the water gets too hot due to air not moving across the radiator and cooling it, it kicks on and blows air across the radiator, this cools the coolant.

Thermostat: It basically puts a "block" in your engine - so no coolant moves when the engine is ice cold. The purpose of this is that when your engine is cold (up to about maybe 120ºF) it's REALLY bad to rev the block, so keeping all the fluid in the block warms it up faster. When your car reaches standard operating temperature (about 190ºF, or whatever the thermostat is set to), it pops open and allows the coolant to flow through the radiator and circulate through the engine to keep it from going PAST normal standard operating temperature.

People in hot climates usually just remove the thermostat since it'll warm up fast anyways, but I advise against this.

Now, you said "Mugen low-temp thermostat" - to me that's stupid as hell, I realize Honda drivers wanna get outta warm-up mode and hit VTEC all day long etc. etc. - but revving a cold motor is about as bad as you can get without doing **** like running it w/ no oil. I don't know what the stock thermostat is set to, it's probably around 180, I was using a 210 in mine during the winter with a piece of cardboard covering 3/4 of the radiator and everything was peachy 100% (people from cali probably have no idea what I'm talking about ).

What's it say the temperature of the Low-Temp Mugen Thermostat is, Low won' be better, but it won't necessarily be worse, as long as it's above ~145 or so, you should be fine - if it's lower, than that's just bad for ur engine .

 

my car is making more power than stock so cooling is now an issue with stock rad

doesnt overheat or anything but i want to keep at optimum temp to keep it within optimiim powerband

im running motul coolant and changing to better rad to improve cooling and for safety on track days and days of hard driving fitting the stat and switch

i never push car when cold, my car is lucky to see 3500 rpm when cold

when pushed on road water temp can easily hit 92-94oC and on track few weeks back stayed around 96-98 0C although did go higher once i pulled up (over 100oC)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vti444 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car is making more power than stock so cooling is now an issue with stock rad

doesnt overheat or anything but i want to keep at optimum temp to keep it within optimiim powerband

im running motul coolant and changing to better rad to improve cooling and for safety on track days and days of hard driving fitting the stat and switch

i never push car when cold, my car is lucky to see 3500 rpm when cold

when pushed on road water temp can easily hit 92-94oC and on track few weeks back stayed around 96-98 0C although did go higher once i pulled up (over 100oC)</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mis-understood me, it's perfectly okay to push it when it's cold, just as long as the engine is warmed up first. This can usually be told by: "As long as the coolant needle is between cold and hot" - opposed to just drilled all the way to the bottom when you first start the car.

As for your car being built or whatever, it shouldn't matter, because it'll only produce more heat if you're beating on it, and you shouldn't beat on it when it's still cold.

If I was you (which I'm not) I'd buy an Integra full sized radiator. That'll keep everything 100%, and give you better cooling while driving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The thermostat has nothing to do with your fan switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please see the link I posted above.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now, you said "Mugen low-temp thermostat" - to me that's stupid as hell</TD></TR></TABLE>

That may be your own personal opinion, but it's not necessarily an informed one. Both Mugen and Spoon offer products intended to serve as upgrades to the cooling system, and none are useless or stupid when installed on setups that will benefit from them (and such setups do indeed exist). Search through the ITR forum and you'll find many threads discussing the merits of items such as Spoon and Mugen low-temp fan switches, thermostats, and radiator caps, among others.

 

"You mis-understood me, it's perfectly okay to push it when it's cold, just as long as the engine is warmed up first. "

that makes no sense but i sure i now what you meant

itr rad is good choice but dont have time or facilities to fab additional brackets etc, im just gonna go with C&R rad with spal fan

ive been offered a new jackson racing thermostat which reading up here opens at couple degress more than the mugen so looking further into that