Gsr...I wanna be able to get that high end power...?
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From: enid, ok, usa
Gsr...I wanna be able to get that high end power...?
Ok I got a stock gsr and I want to get it to have power in the 8k range and wanna know what to replace to get there and do it all the time safely...
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: Gsr...I wanna be able to get that high end power...? (jordan_civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jordan_civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I got a stock gsr and I want to get it to have power in the 8k range and wanna know what to replace to get there and do it all the time safely...</TD></TR></TABLE>
your motor only revs to 8200. You wanna make power 200 rpm before you have to shift?
Well, if you want top end reliable horsepower, 4-1 header, Intake, Intake manifold, exhaust and tune should do it. That's the quick and durrty
4-1 header, exhaust, stand alone, ITBs, high compression port/polished head, bigger valves, highercompression pistons.....etc.....etc......etc...for the expensive and fast and mostly reliable.
You're asking a question that has a TON of answers. You could literally write a book on the question you're asking. You're going to have to be more specific....
your motor only revs to 8200. You wanna make power 200 rpm before you have to shift?
Well, if you want top end reliable horsepower, 4-1 header, Intake, Intake manifold, exhaust and tune should do it. That's the quick and durrty
4-1 header, exhaust, stand alone, ITBs, high compression port/polished head, bigger valves, highercompression pistons.....etc.....etc......etc...for the expensive and fast and mostly reliable.
You're asking a question that has a TON of answers. You could literally write a book on the question you're asking. You're going to have to be more specific....
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From: trbho, WA, united states
Re: Gsr...I wanna be able to get that high end power...? (jordan_civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your motor only revs to 8200. You wanna make power 200 rpm before you have to shift?
....</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2 even if yu shifted at nine how much time do u spend at 8 grand?? that power isnt usable unless all u wanna do is go in a straight line. but this sounds a daily driver so wouldnt u want more usable power like 4-8 not just at 8000?
your motor only revs to 8200. You wanna make power 200 rpm before you have to shift?
....</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2 even if yu shifted at nine how much time do u spend at 8 grand?? that power isnt usable unless all u wanna do is go in a straight line. but this sounds a daily driver so wouldnt u want more usable power like 4-8 not just at 8000?
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From: enid, ok, usa
Re: (Lauj87)
Yeah I stop making power at 7.5k and I want to atleast get up to where the type r is...like 8200 or higher. I wanna get there doing the minimum but make it safe to not valve float or whatever else can happen.
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From: enid, ok, usa
Re: (JDM_dc2_B18c)
Well im a noob. Sorry. But whats the easiest way to get power up there and do it safely. Would Cams, gear, Valve springs, and retainers do it or could somethings still go wrong. What else to replace?
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From: DFW, TX, USA
ive read a few of your threads and you should do some research.
IMO doing n/a mods are pointless. yea sure its faster than stock but what are you going to be racing besides another honda? you wont run with any modded V8s or turbo cars.
for higher end power all motor cams, valvetrain, and cam gears will be your best option. that and bolt-ons with a shorter geared tranny should get you well into the 14s. next youre going to want more power so youd have to build the bottom end for higher compression. in the end youd spend thousands just to get to the 200whp+ mark.
do some researching, save, and do a turbo setup. just my $.02
IMO doing n/a mods are pointless. yea sure its faster than stock but what are you going to be racing besides another honda? you wont run with any modded V8s or turbo cars.
for higher end power all motor cams, valvetrain, and cam gears will be your best option. that and bolt-ons with a shorter geared tranny should get you well into the 14s. next youre going to want more power so youd have to build the bottom end for higher compression. in the end youd spend thousands just to get to the 200whp+ mark.
do some researching, save, and do a turbo setup. just my $.02
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (iVteC_PoWeR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iVteC_PoWeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive read a few of your threads and you should do some research.
IMO doing n/a mods are pointless. yea sure its faster than stock but what are you going to be racing besides another honda? you wont run with any modded V8s or turbo cars.
for higher end power all motor cams, valvetrain, and cam gears will be your best option. that and bolt-ons with a shorter geared tranny should get you well into the 14s. next youre going to want more power so youd have to build the bottom end for higher compression. in the end youd spend thousands just to get to the 200whp+ mark.
do some researching, save, and do a turbo setup. just my $.02</TD></TR></TABLE>
he said he wanted to do EASY and SAFE.
a turbo is neither EASY or SAFE.
Just do the usual I/H/E setup like i said for the quick and durrty...add in an intake manifold and a tune and you've got a pretty good package.
You could also do the CTR intake /ITR exhaust cam combo. They're nice because they're OEM. OEM's advantage is that they were designed to be on a daily driven motor designed to go 100k+ miles.
You need the ITR/CTR valve train to do this. With this combo, you probably shouldnt rev much past factory redline. Maybe 8500-8700 max for longevity and reliability of the bottom end and valve train.
The ITR ECU will work well with this combo if you dont wanna spend time on a dyno.
Bigger cams nessecitate higher compression and stiffer valve springs. The more agressive you go on cams, the more agressive you have to go on everything else. The trade off is driveability and reliability and longevity.
Small, factory part mods are nice because they net good power, but keep the car simple and reliable without the nessecity to do hardcore tuning and buy a stand alone, and so on.
You can either have a street car or a race car. Decide which one you want FIRST before modding.
N/A leaves you the flexibility to do any kind of racing you want. With the small reliable mods i mentioned above, you can be as comfortable driiving to the track as you are on it. You will still get good gas mileage, your engine will still be as reliable as it was when it left the factory (virtually).
IMO doing n/a mods are pointless. yea sure its faster than stock but what are you going to be racing besides another honda? you wont run with any modded V8s or turbo cars.
for higher end power all motor cams, valvetrain, and cam gears will be your best option. that and bolt-ons with a shorter geared tranny should get you well into the 14s. next youre going to want more power so youd have to build the bottom end for higher compression. in the end youd spend thousands just to get to the 200whp+ mark.
do some researching, save, and do a turbo setup. just my $.02</TD></TR></TABLE>
he said he wanted to do EASY and SAFE.
a turbo is neither EASY or SAFE.
Just do the usual I/H/E setup like i said for the quick and durrty...add in an intake manifold and a tune and you've got a pretty good package.
You could also do the CTR intake /ITR exhaust cam combo. They're nice because they're OEM. OEM's advantage is that they were designed to be on a daily driven motor designed to go 100k+ miles.
You need the ITR/CTR valve train to do this. With this combo, you probably shouldnt rev much past factory redline. Maybe 8500-8700 max for longevity and reliability of the bottom end and valve train.
The ITR ECU will work well with this combo if you dont wanna spend time on a dyno.
Bigger cams nessecitate higher compression and stiffer valve springs. The more agressive you go on cams, the more agressive you have to go on everything else. The trade off is driveability and reliability and longevity.
Small, factory part mods are nice because they net good power, but keep the car simple and reliable without the nessecity to do hardcore tuning and buy a stand alone, and so on.
You can either have a street car or a race car. Decide which one you want FIRST before modding.
N/A leaves you the flexibility to do any kind of racing you want. With the small reliable mods i mentioned above, you can be as comfortable driiving to the track as you are on it. You will still get good gas mileage, your engine will still be as reliable as it was when it left the factory (virtually).
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