rear brake swap, scraping sound?
i put on 91 crx si rear discs on to my 88si, and changed the pads/rotors and ss brake lines. well even before i replaced the brake pads, etc., i heard a scraping noise that sounds like every rotation of the wheel it starts making noise. on-off-on-off at every rotation. any idea what this could be?
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i have exactly same problem on my 88 crx si after doing the conversion.. change the rotor and pads but still making the same noise..but something i notice that the caliper is unevenly pressing the rotor...i have not really have time to recheck it again...but if you figure it out let me know thnks
yup me too, if i used the ebrake it doesnt make that weird scrapping sounds...did u change ur propotioning valve specificly for disk? cuz mind i forget to change it eventhough i have the gsr one..im not sure if it change something....as i said awhile ago...ill try to figure it out on my crx but don't have time at the moment since i just bought a new ridgeline n not using my crx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jpangeles »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup me too, if i used the ebrake it doesnt make that weird scrapping sounds...did u change ur propotioning valve specificly for disk? cuz mind i forget to change it eventhough i have the gsr one..im not sure if it change something....as i said awhile ago...ill try to figure it out on my crx but don't have time at the moment since i just bought a new ridgeline n not using my crx</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was told u dont need to change ur proportioning valve unless u want to.
i was told u dont need to change ur proportioning valve unless u want to.
probably your right but heres the link anyway
http://www.50mod.com/fourthgen....html
The next step is to decide whether or not you want to install the prop valve. You don't need to do this but I highly recommend you do. I have first hand experience that without the prop valve you will not brake as well as you can with it. The prop valve is what sends the pressure to the front and back. With drum brakes less pressure is sent to the back so with your prop valve meant for drum brakes your rear brakes aren't going to work well and your pedal feel will suck. So if you still have plenty of time then you might as well install the prop valve now (since you have to bleed the brakes now anyway). So the prop valve is located on the right side of the engine on the fire wall. I say the prop valve sort of resembles a spider. It is hidden sort of under a bunch of wires for your engine harness. The prop valve is a bitch to take on and off. You will need to use the 10mm flare nut wrench to get the fittings off. They are exactly the same as the fittings for the hard line for your brake lines. However the lines to the prop valve aren't flexible as they are made of copper. They can be bent but you will need to bend and align them back to get them to screw in right. All I can say for this is remove everything in the way (strut bars, intake hoses, wires, etc...) and then remove the lines from the top outside to top inside and downward the same way, and install them just as you removed them. The less you have to bend them the easier it will be to install the new one.
http://www.50mod.com/fourthgen....html
The next step is to decide whether or not you want to install the prop valve. You don't need to do this but I highly recommend you do. I have first hand experience that without the prop valve you will not brake as well as you can with it. The prop valve is what sends the pressure to the front and back. With drum brakes less pressure is sent to the back so with your prop valve meant for drum brakes your rear brakes aren't going to work well and your pedal feel will suck. So if you still have plenty of time then you might as well install the prop valve now (since you have to bleed the brakes now anyway). So the prop valve is located on the right side of the engine on the fire wall. I say the prop valve sort of resembles a spider. It is hidden sort of under a bunch of wires for your engine harness. The prop valve is a bitch to take on and off. You will need to use the 10mm flare nut wrench to get the fittings off. They are exactly the same as the fittings for the hard line for your brake lines. However the lines to the prop valve aren't flexible as they are made of copper. They can be bent but you will need to bend and align them back to get them to screw in right. All I can say for this is remove everything in the way (strut bars, intake hoses, wires, etc...) and then remove the lines from the top outside to top inside and downward the same way, and install them just as you removed them. The less you have to bend them the easier it will be to install the new one.
You might want to check if the brake pads where properly lubricated, because if not, that could possibly be the reason. That at least was what was making my breaks squeak.
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