What should I do next? b16a2 ideas
Hey guys... well I have a 99 civic si with it's original b16a2 in it. I picked it up a while back for about 6,500 with 123,000 miles on it. It has no signs of abuse in anyways and runs pretty good minus a few problems here and there.
I originally bought the car for a daily driver, but project car as well. I have made a few improvements to the car such as the intake, exhaust, suspension, and the clutch and flywheel. Other than that, the car is all bone stock. I have a tight budget and aam struggling over what I should do with the car from here on out. I want to build the motor and turbo the car eventually... I am not out for mad speed and would probably run 8 pounds of boost into the car max... just a lightweight turbo so I don't cause to much wear on the car.
I don't have a deep wallet and would like to hear what you guys think I should do from here...
I originally bought the car for a daily driver, but project car as well. I have made a few improvements to the car such as the intake, exhaust, suspension, and the clutch and flywheel. Other than that, the car is all bone stock. I have a tight budget and aam struggling over what I should do with the car from here on out. I want to build the motor and turbo the car eventually... I am not out for mad speed and would probably run 8 pounds of boost into the car max... just a lightweight turbo so I don't cause to much wear on the car.
I don't have a deep wallet and would like to hear what you guys think I should do from here...
If you go turbo, dont think that you are out the price of the kit and your done. There is a lot of upkeep when going turbo. Plus, you got some decent mileage on the car, not the best time to be boosting IMO. Id do some interior work and make it all nice inside.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RollinEk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you go turbo, dont think that you are out the price of the kit and your done. There is a lot of upkeep when going turbo. Plus, you got some decent mileage on the car, not the best time to be boosting IMO. Id do some interior work and make it all nice inside.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car could be turbocharged as it is now if I really wanted to, however I would rebuild the motor and switch up the compretion ratio if I actually do put a turbo on the car. The interior as it stands now is very nice, I haven't changed anything in there. The only thing I would really want to change there is the seats.
The car could be turbocharged as it is now if I really wanted to, however I would rebuild the motor and switch up the compretion ratio if I actually do put a turbo on the car. The interior as it stands now is very nice, I haven't changed anything in there. The only thing I would really want to change there is the seats.
you dont have a deep wallet? hmmm. here my advice. dont do anything. save your money. you have I/E. the car sounds nice. leave it alone till you can save up money.
Trending Topics
well if i was in your situation i would either go with jackson racing suer charger or greddy turbo kit depends how much you want to spend. i have a built 2000 civic si with greddy turbo kit running 7 psi i like it an all its just a hassle cause then ya go buy **** like guages turbo timers stupid **** so you dont blow it up thats i should have went with a jackson racing suppercharger sure its not as fast but better for the motor in the long run would have to build it and prolly would have sounded nicer my advice to you is look into a jackson racing super charger its prolly gona run you about 4 or so but you wont need to build it considereing they only run about 5 psi
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000siturboR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if i was in your situation i would either go with jackson racing suer charger or greddy turbo kit depends how much you want to spend. i have a built 2000 civic si with greddy turbo kit running 7 psi i like it an all its just a hassle cause then ya go buy **** like guages turbo timers stupid **** so you dont blow it up thats i should have went with a jackson racing suppercharger sure its not as fast but better for the motor in the long run would have to build it and prolly would have sounded nicer my advice to you is look into a jackson racing super charger its prolly gona run you about 4 or so but you wont need to build it considereing they only run about 5 psi </TD></TR></TABLE>
do you not believe in periods?
do you not believe in periods?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXvtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you not believe in periods?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol. Keep it the way it is until you have enough to do what youd like to do to the car.
do you not believe in periods?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Lol. Keep it the way it is until you have enough to do what youd like to do to the car.
I wont supercharge the car, I would only turbo it. I plan on building my motor first over anything. What should the compression ratio be? I thought about keeping it the same so I can drive the car around and if I do decide to go turbo... I will. The stock compression isn't bad for running 5-8 pounds of boost.
i say that for now, worry bout your internals. Get new cams, cam gears, pistons, rods, rod bolts, crank shaft, port and polish the head, 3 angle valve job, bigger fuel pump, have some fun. N/A is sexy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kelb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i say that for now, worry bout your internals. Get new cams, cam gears, pistons, rods, rod bolts, crank shaft, port and polish the head, 3 angle valve job, bigger fuel pump, have some fun. N/A is sexy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
After ...
Cams - $300+
Gears - $180+
Pistons - $500
Rods - $350
Head studs/Main bolts - $150+
Polish/Balance crank - $150+
P&P with valve job and larger valves- $1k
Fuel pump - $150+
you are at $2500+ (parts w/ partial labor ie crank/p&p) , making less whp then you would have going turbo for the same price and you now have a lopey idle and less mpg for your DD. N/A is great and all, but not for a DD.
After ...
Cams - $300+
Gears - $180+
Pistons - $500
Rods - $350
Head studs/Main bolts - $150+
Polish/Balance crank - $150+
P&P with valve job and larger valves- $1k
Fuel pump - $150+
you are at $2500+ (parts w/ partial labor ie crank/p&p) , making less whp then you would have going turbo for the same price and you now have a lopey idle and less mpg for your DD. N/A is great and all, but not for a DD.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
After ...
Cams - $300+
Gears - $180+
Pistons - $500
Rods - $350
Head studs/Main bolts - $150+
Polish/Balance crank - $150+
P&P with valve job and larger valves- $1k
Fuel pump - $150+
you are at $2500+ (parts w/ partial labor ie crank/p&p) , making less whp then you would have going turbo for the same price and you now have a lopey idle and less mpg for your DD. N/A is great and all, but not for a DD. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea. The car is still a daily driver. I would rebuild the motor to factory spec which would be cheeper then buying all performance aftermarket parts etc. Then, if I decide to go turbo, it can be done.
After ...
Cams - $300+
Gears - $180+
Pistons - $500
Rods - $350
Head studs/Main bolts - $150+
Polish/Balance crank - $150+
P&P with valve job and larger valves- $1k
Fuel pump - $150+
you are at $2500+ (parts w/ partial labor ie crank/p&p) , making less whp then you would have going turbo for the same price and you now have a lopey idle and less mpg for your DD. N/A is great and all, but not for a DD. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea. The car is still a daily driver. I would rebuild the motor to factory spec which would be cheeper then buying all performance aftermarket parts etc. Then, if I decide to go turbo, it can be done.
you have a pretty nice DD setup already. if your looking for something a bit more, you could put some cams in (CTR possibly = ]), some valve springs and retainers, and then just have fun with the interrior! but without boost or building the motor you have a decent daily already. Good luck on deciding something!
There is a guy running 14lbs on a .57 trim with 350+ whp, stock b16a2. If u dont have the money, dont bother, u will end up with half the parts and realize it wasnt worth it. Stick to looks, thats my opinion.
The advice in this thread is among the worst I've ever seen 
1.) if you're "on a tight budget" don't worry about how fast your car is until you've made it out of that period in your financial journey.
2.) if you want to make your B16 faster, boost is the only reasonable option.
3.) if you want to run 8 pounds and make 250 at the wheels you don't need to do anything to your engine at all. Get a treadstone turbo kit for $1700, find a BOV you like and pay $400 for tuning. Bam. 13's all day on street tires.
You need to do more searching and less talking to the noobs. Everybody has opinions, but few people have the experience necessary to give you GOOD advice.

1.) if you're "on a tight budget" don't worry about how fast your car is until you've made it out of that period in your financial journey.
2.) if you want to make your B16 faster, boost is the only reasonable option.
3.) if you want to run 8 pounds and make 250 at the wheels you don't need to do anything to your engine at all. Get a treadstone turbo kit for $1700, find a BOV you like and pay $400 for tuning. Bam. 13's all day on street tires.
You need to do more searching and less talking to the noobs. Everybody has opinions, but few people have the experience necessary to give you GOOD advice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock99si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u dont have to build up ur engine to run 8 psi in most cases.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which is why I would rebuild the motor to factory specifications. I can get away with re honing the cylinders, topping the deck... hot tanking the block and possibly replacing the pistons and connecting rods with an aftermarket factory spec option. The only difference would be the durability. Then I would put a lightwieght turbo on the car.
Does any one know of any good turbo systems under like 3k?
Which is why I would rebuild the motor to factory specifications. I can get away with re honing the cylinders, topping the deck... hot tanking the block and possibly replacing the pistons and connecting rods with an aftermarket factory spec option. The only difference would be the durability. Then I would put a lightwieght turbo on the car.
Does any one know of any good turbo systems under like 3k?
3.) if you want to run 8 pounds and make 250 at the wheels you don't need to do anything to your engine at all. Get a treadstone turbo kit for $1700, find a BOV you like and pay $400 for tuning. Bam. 13's all day on street tires.
You need to do more searching and less talking to the noobs. Everybody has opinions, but few people have the experience necessary to give you GOOD advice.[/QUOTE]
Is the treadstone turbo reliable?
You need to do more searching and less talking to the noobs. Everybody has opinions, but few people have the experience necessary to give you GOOD advice.[/QUOTE]
Is the treadstone turbo reliable?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by l2edken »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">add stickers... they add 20 HP minimum...</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^ someone had to meet quota for the day...
^^ someone had to meet quota for the day...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vtecgod
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
7
Aug 19, 2007 06:54 AM




take it easy on the car and start collecting the needed essential and then by the time all is together you'll be ready to boost. Thats what im doing. 
