As the title states id like to attempt to fab a 3" manual cable operated butterfly valve to attach to the downpipe of my A4 BT as i dont think an electric cut out will make it through a salty canadian winter.

Id like to get some ideas going in here or to see if such a product already exists, ive only had luck in finding electric cut outs or wingnut style flange cutouts

Pete

 

http://www.apexi-usa.com/produ...Num=1

 

My motor on my cutout broke off after about 1.5 years. So I took a throttle body apart and tried to make my own.



I used a cruise control motor and a civic throttle cable to control it. It is wired to my rear wiper control to open and close it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My motor on my cutout broke off after about 1.5 years. So I took a throttle body apart and tried to make my own.

I used a cruise control motor and a civic throttle cable to control it. It is wired to my rear wiper control to open and close it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Admittingly, thats pretty clever

 

I got a chunk of 4"x53" aluminum and I'm soon to make a ring and my own butterfly. I was going to use teflon bushings and teflon strips to seal it, and open it with a 5v relay (opens at ~3v) that works off the TPS. I plan on using a cable to open it, and move the cable with electric solenoids.

JCwhitney.com also has some variety for manual versions. You could also get an industrial butterfly valve from ebay for $40-80 and rig that to a cable and/or motor too. Those would last a while.

 

so it makes a funny WWWHHHAAAAAAA wah WWWHHHAAAAAAA wah sound when you turn it on???,,,,,,,jk nice idea

 

is there a 3" version of the APex unit, and what vendors on HT sell this

 

I keep whoring out my same pics LS1 TB with a Civic DX throttle cable to open it.

 

this is wat i was planning but ruled it out since i thought a TB will not be able to hold the heat

 

It does tend to heat up and stick when you try to close it after a run That's one of the reasons why it's so far away from the turbo, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My motor on my cutout broke off after about 1.5 years. So I took a throttle body apart and tried to make my own.



I used a cruise control motor and a civic throttle cable to control it. It is wired to my rear wiper control to open and close it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've never had a civic with cruise control. lol. can you tell us a little more about that motor? does the cruise control motor naturally rotate only a few degrees? does it have a brain or soemthing telling it to open incrementally or does the design of the motor itself make it open incrementally when it recieves a momentary signal?

thanks?

 

I will explain the best that I understand it.

If I remember correctly there are 4 wires off of the cruise module. 2 of them to actually turn the motor, and the other 2 I believe to hold the position.

I have it wired to hold when I turn the rear wiper switch on.....if I turn it further to "spray" it is what activates the motor wires in the cutout, opening the valve. The best thing I like about closing the valve is that it shuts the motor almost instantly.

I did not see a brain on the motor....I did have to adjust it to be full open when my cutout was full open. The motor seems pretty strong when engaged, it feels like it can handle a bit of tension.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will explain the best that I understand it.

If I remember correctly there are 4 wires off of the cruise module. 2 of them to actually turn the motor, and the other 2 I believe to hold the position.

I have it wired to hold when I turn the rear wiper switch on.....if I turn it further to "spray" it is what activates the motor wires in the cutout, opening the valve. The best thing I like about closing the valve is that it shuts the motor almost instantly.

I did not see a brain on the motor....I did have to adjust it to be full open when my cutout was full open. The motor seems pretty strong when engaged, it feels like it can handle a bit of tension.</TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting. thanks for the info. so if i follow you correctly when cruise control is engaged the motor is held in place electrically. one signal gives it extra juice and it moves a little more to open the throttle a little more, and the other signal just holds it steady. did i understand you correctly? thanks again for the info?

also, your setup is pretty ingenious.

 

I was going to make one of these in 2.5", but i recently picked up an electric one in a trade.

I still have the throttle body left over from an older ford I bought, the throttle plate is 2.5", it would be perfect for a 3" downpipe, since you need room to clear the rotating butterfly. The above idea with a CC motor is pretty clever, but I was just going to rig up an old throttle cable. If you're interested in it, please let me know.

Good luck You can make a DIY manual e cutout for much less than what apexi is charging.

 

i ended up picking up an 80mm APexi ECV for $160 shipped on ebay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GTiR NX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.apexi-usa.com/produ...Num=1</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've been waiting for that to come out LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i've been waiting for that to come out LOL </TD></TR></TABLE> i didnt know it existed either, so much better than electric

 

how are the throttle cables you guys attach to them holding up?

also the throttle bodies themselves.. how do they hold up?

i was planning to do this for the longest time but then i de-turboed... i still kinda wanna do it.