I got a stock b20vtec whats the biggest cams i can run
I got a stock b20vtec whats the biggest cams i can run and why is that i have a stock b20b4 bottom end with b16 head with upgraded vavle train was wondering whats the biggest cams i can run i was told type R and i really couldnt adjust them is this true and why thanks
depends where you want your power. Depends on intended use/power goal etc. Then once you figure that out; like, if you want a street/daily driver motor, you'll want somthing with low-mid power right? IF then, go with a cam that closes the intake early, and has little overlap. That will give you good bottom end power and a smooth idle. But beware too much overlap at low RPM can cause intake charge contamination, because the low pressure of the intake charge may become "over-thrown " by the higher pressurized exhaust bleeding into the into the air intake tract; robbing you of low end idle and equating to a lopey powerless idle.
IMO. I would've done the b20-b16head( stock ), Tune it, get some baseline numbers. THEN go from there,( unless you already have? ) but I must ask, when you said you upgraded the valvetrain, you didn't specify how/what kind of parts? Or any mods to the head ie. PnP,valve job, etc.
I'm interested in this build, i plan on doing one for my EJ1 next summerish, so i'd like to see what u do/end up with.
another expensive idea, would be to let ENDYN grind you some " bumpsticks " because i mean, damn they're good.
IMO. I would've done the b20-b16head( stock ), Tune it, get some baseline numbers. THEN go from there,( unless you already have? ) but I must ask, when you said you upgraded the valvetrain, you didn't specify how/what kind of parts? Or any mods to the head ie. PnP,valve job, etc.
I'm interested in this build, i plan on doing one for my EJ1 next summerish, so i'd like to see what u do/end up with.
another expensive idea, would be to let ENDYN grind you some " bumpsticks " because i mean, damn they're good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nipcup101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a stock b20vtec whats the biggest cams i can run and why is that i have a stock b20b4 bottom end with b16 head with upgraded valve train was wondering whats the biggest cams i can run i was told type R and i really couldn't adjust them is this true and why thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
1st: this is just by going off what i have read in many a different books about OHC cylinder head performance books.
Anyways, In the valve train, once everything heats up( valves, rockers, camshafts etc. ) they start to expand and distort(slightly).
Now with " performance/upgraded " valve train components; they tend to be machined/built harder/tougher and out of stronger alloys. Decreasing the distortion a bit, but they still tend too distort, just not as bad, and not till higher temps.
Where as the stock/ITR components are good/great. But will most likely distort and bend until breakage( if you go rev happy ). Which is why your intended use is so important.
The upgraded components will most likely out last your stock cams if you intend on revving the heck out of the motor and using stock shafts.
You probably could use a set of ITR cams,and with the " adjustment part " you'll want to get a good set of adjustable cam gears. Good quality cam gears have a long slot and indexing marks, But again ( don't hold me to this, but: ) you may come across camshaft failure if you are going to, like i said before, be rev happy. But this is worst case right, you could just get a good set of ITR Cams and they could last you a lifetime, its luck of the draw really.
IF i was you, I'd do some major researching on cam's relative to what you intend to use the motor for( and get some respectable opinions via reputation not just some guys off HT(no offense) but you're investing all this $$ into your car, and you want it to run right? )
If you don't plan on rockin' it at 7grand + then choose a conservative/ close to stock application. Lots of books I've read have mentioned that any duration specs over 230 crankshaft degrees should be avoided for a street application.
But since you do have the upgraded valve train, might as well opt for something a bit more crazier than stock, and just get it tuned by someone who really knows what he/she is doing. Oh yes, one more then, just make sure when/if you do get adjustable cam gears, you match them at the proper mark IE: TDC.
Well, thats all the info i got, i hope it will help you, and if I've written something incorrect please, dish out the " constructive" criticism/corrective literature.
1st: this is just by going off what i have read in many a different books about OHC cylinder head performance books.
Anyways, In the valve train, once everything heats up( valves, rockers, camshafts etc. ) they start to expand and distort(slightly).
Now with " performance/upgraded " valve train components; they tend to be machined/built harder/tougher and out of stronger alloys. Decreasing the distortion a bit, but they still tend too distort, just not as bad, and not till higher temps.
Where as the stock/ITR components are good/great. But will most likely distort and bend until breakage( if you go rev happy ). Which is why your intended use is so important.
The upgraded components will most likely out last your stock cams if you intend on revving the heck out of the motor and using stock shafts.
You probably could use a set of ITR cams,and with the " adjustment part " you'll want to get a good set of adjustable cam gears. Good quality cam gears have a long slot and indexing marks, But again ( don't hold me to this, but: ) you may come across camshaft failure if you are going to, like i said before, be rev happy. But this is worst case right, you could just get a good set of ITR Cams and they could last you a lifetime, its luck of the draw really.
IF i was you, I'd do some major researching on cam's relative to what you intend to use the motor for( and get some respectable opinions via reputation not just some guys off HT(no offense) but you're investing all this $$ into your car, and you want it to run right? )
If you don't plan on rockin' it at 7grand + then choose a conservative/ close to stock application. Lots of books I've read have mentioned that any duration specs over 230 crankshaft degrees should be avoided for a street application.
But since you do have the upgraded valve train, might as well opt for something a bit more crazier than stock, and just get it tuned by someone who really knows what he/she is doing. Oh yes, one more then, just make sure when/if you do get adjustable cam gears, you match them at the proper mark IE: TDC.
Well, thats all the info i got, i hope it will help you, and if I've written something incorrect please, dish out the " constructive" criticism/corrective literature.
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my car has been baselined at 180whp and 130tq on my stock b20 bottom end and stock b16 head with titauim vavle springs and retainers got jdm itr headers and cold air intake 310 injectors ported head and some better pistons would do nice
with the type R cams
with the type R cams
ITR/CTR is the biggest you can run with stock pistons. This is because the non-vtec pistons have too small a valve relief, so with bigger cams you're going to run into piston to valve clearance issues. If you want bigger cams, you'll have to either notch the pistons or upgrade. Also you'd be overcammed with huge cams on stock compression anyway...
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