its big decision and definitely hard to decide because once im committed i will NOT stop lol. after being almost 99% committed to going with the turbo, my friend up in norcal whose opinion i highly respect because of his lengthy knowledge about cars and previous builds...has recommended going ITB's. (he tunes and builds cars for a living) let me give you guys a quick breakdown on pricing, pros/cons, and "cool factor." by the way i am planning on making this car a touge monster in these mountains near san francisco.

i have an 03 k24a4 coupe 5spd with basic bolt ons.

<U>going n/a with ITB's:</U>

part list
k20 head port/polish
TSX IM
hondata/k-pro
TSX 6 spd tranny + clutch
k20 cams
ITB's
DYNO after ITB (not accord but will have similar output)


and another $300 for misc parts
tuning plus dyno: $120/hr...approx 3-4 hours

approx price: $3500-$4000 after tuning

pros: almost no lag, quicker throttle response, slightly cheaper, longer engine life, more reliable, gas mileage practically stays near par, less shop time. a LOT less problems compared to a turbo, sticking to the honda roots by going n/a, daily drivable, less attention, i think ill be the first accord in the USA going ITB

cons: limited power output once motor is completely built (probably max 250-300 whp after stock internals?)

-------------------------

<U>going with turbo</U>

part list

god theres so many different turbo schemes out there...a few kits and some home brew...but heres the best so far what ive put together.

GT2876r Turbo
K20 Turbo Manifold
K20 head
tsx 6spd tranny + clutch
550cc Injectors
Exedy Stg 2 Clutch kit/9.5LB Flywheel
greddy FMIC
greddy emanage
greddy Turbo Timer
greddy boost gauge
tial 50mm BOV
AEM Wideband A/F Gauge
Custom downpipe
Custom exhaust (probably apexi n1 turboback)
add another $1000 for tuning and misc parts...i know im missing some on this list.

approx: $4500-$5000 after tuning + dyno (approx 10psi for the daily drive)



pros: pushing 300+whp on stock internals, a lot more room to push more hp+torque (but do i really need it??), cool factor 10/10, people have done a turbo setup before, only one has blown his motor, the rest are still ok, incredible top end, mad props + cool factor, panties and thongs will be thrown at my car constantly throughout the day.
cons: TURBO LAG, constant problems if not tuned correctly, unwanted attention from cops, expensive, unreliable, shorter engine life, chance of me blowing my engine knowing the way i drive? 75.6584%.

 

This is not the place for this, and honestly it is your money.

You should do some research in the all motor, and the forced induction forums as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omfgitzadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pros: almost no lag, quicker throttle response, slightly cheaper, longer engine life, more reliable, gas mileage practically stays near par, less shop time. a LOT less problems compared to a turbo, sticking to the honda roots by going n/a, daily drivable, less attention, i think ill be the first accord in the USA going ITB

cons: limited power output once motor is completely built (probably max 250-300 whp after stock internals?)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to burst your ITB bubble but where did you get the $3500 - $4000 numbers for your particular build?
K20 Head port and polish with cams = $1500+
K20 ITB's = $1500 - $2500
K20 IM = $150 w/o fuel rail, injectors or sensors
EMS Hondata Kpro $1000 - $1500
There is your $4000 spent and you haven't even started to do anything yet.
Tranny = $1500 Used
K20 Clutch kit = $1500-$2500
3-4 hrs to tune ITB's! I want to go to your tuner when I finish my project. I'm not 100% but I don't think you will be the first Accord with ITB's in the US.

Anyway.....Good luck with whatever project you choose.


Modified by GhostAccord at 11:33 AM 8/3/2007

 

I agree with what the guy above me wrote. You'd be better of with what I wrote in the gen7accord.com forum. You'd make more power and have more upside for expansion if you go with the turbo.

 

First, you do realize this is flywheel hp right, not whp right?

Reliability with the turbo issue is in the hands of the owner. Get a proper tune, and when your not boosting, you'll get a slightly better MPG.

With a GT28xxr there will be about 0 lag.

And with going the boost route, you can tune and detune to your power likings.

Just things to think about, too.

You're also shooting for the same power level, whos to say the engine won't crack a ringland or something at 300whp N/A or turbo?

 

Look at the torque numbers on the graphs. A turbo will, il almost all cases, make more torque than any NA setup at lower RPM. HO is just a rating, you do not feel it. The torque is what you feel. A turbo car will pull harder and earlier than any NA car (assuming identical trans and FD). Look at how much harder the N/A engine has to work to make the same torque as the turbo setup. There's a reason they put turbos on trucks and not heads/cam setups, torque. That's what moves a car.