my car is lowered quite aggressively. i have spc upper ball joints that im pretty sure are the causing the clearance issue, i mean the smallest bumps and im bottoming out. im wanting to run an adjustable upper control arm. does any one have experience with a setup that that will fix or greatly improve this problem? ive been reading on the newer skunk2 UCA, but no one seems to have any experience with them for this application. thanks

 

agressively is an understatement if you're hitting the towers

raise the damn car

 

i still have decent gap between the wheel and fender. so its not THAT low.

 

if that's the case, you have severely blown shocks and much too low of spring rates

 

Idk why, my car, the back tire and the car itself, I can't stick my fingers through there, other days my whole hand does???

 

Something is loose there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DC2- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if that's the case, you have severely blown shocks and much too low of spring rates</TD></TR></TABLE>

im running brand new koni sp3 and ground controls, all for the dc2/type r chassis. including spring rates

 

my friend had this problem. he got some skunk2 ones and its good. you just dont have the clearance, he had some junk camber kit in there before..

 

sounds more likely to me that you have an installation problem.

i don't know the specifics of the SPC kit, but IMO all camber kits are 100% a waste of $$

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DC2- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds more likely to me that you have an installation problem.

i don't know the specifics of the SPC kit, but IMO all camber kits are 100% a waste of $$</TD></TR></TABLE>

please explain the bold area....

how can one correct the camber with out these items

 

its the SPC balljoints. Those things take out a lot of suspension travel because they are so tall. Especially on DA's and EF's, which don't have a lot to begin with. I'd run stock arms and get an alignment to zero out toe. that will greatly reduce wear. If you have to have a camber ket, get the Revo kit, it doesn't have the raised balljoint like the SPC.

http://robearracing.com/pd_rev...r.cfm


and just so you know, this is what the SPC balljoints do to your UCA's:

 

thanks for the info. thinking about trying the revo upper arms for the da. i havent heard much about them, but they are the only ones made for the chassis.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildcat98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can one correct the camber with out these items</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, i'm suggesting the concept of adding camber to "correct" negative camber is pointless. which makes all camber kits a waste of $$. i see no point/benefit/gain from it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DC2- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


no, i'm suggesting the concept of adding camber to "correct" negative camber is pointless. which makes all camber kits a waste of $$. i see no point/benefit/gain from it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so what do you suggest that one uses to correct/adjust this negitive camber when you have a lowered car

 

nothing. it's not necessary.

i have daily driven more than -2deg camber on my hondas for many years and have never had a camber kit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DC2- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nothing. it's not necessary.

i have daily driven more than -2deg camber on my hondas for many years and have never had a camber kit</TD></TR></TABLE>

so what does one do about the excessive tyre wear ??

 

what excessive tire wear? camber doesn't eat tires, toe eats tires. get an alignment done after dropping your car and you'll never have a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DC2- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what excessive tire wear? camber doesn't eat tires, toe eats tires. get an alignment done after dropping your car and you'll never have a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Point taken !!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -DC2- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what excessive tire wear? camber doesn't eat tires, toe eats tires. get an alignment done after dropping your car and you'll never have a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is right and wrong at the same time

toe is the biggest problem when it comes to tire wear, although camber doesnt wear tires as quickly it still does wear the tires...

not only that but most people do not need and aggressive camber setting for driving a car on the street and will be better off with factory spec of camber which a camber kit can correct

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coptzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that is right and wrong at the same time

toe is the biggest problem when it comes to tire wear, although camber doesnt wear tires as quickly it still does wear the tires...

not only that but most people do not need and aggressive camber setting for driving a car on the street and will be better off with factory spec of camber which a camber kit can correct</TD></TR></TABLE>

This has been covered countless times here, and needs to just die already.

"Aggressive camber" is a silly term. I daily drive with -4.0* of front camber on my DC2, and my tires are wearing fine after 1 year of this alignment. In fact, last month when I checked, I was actually wearing out the outside shoulder faster than the rest of the tire (1/32" tread difference), and probably because I have the factory recommended rear toe in and rotate monthly (after autocrosses while swapping tires back). I have aggressive camber. The paltry -2* to -2.5* of camber we typically see from lowering our cars, is nothing worth even giving a second thought to.

Yes, cosmetically lowered cars won't be cornered hard, and don't "need" additional camber, but its not hurting anything. Adding a camber kit, either a replacement UCA or offset balljoint, is going to eat up some of what little front suspension travel remains. So, you're going to create a new problem to correct one that isn't actually a problem.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93_db2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car is lowered quite aggressively. i have spc upper ball joints that im pretty sure are the causing the clearance issue, i mean the smallest bumps and im bottoming out. im wanting to run an adjustable upper control arm. does any one have experience with a setup that that will fix or greatly improve this problem? ive been reading on the newer skunk2 UCA, but no one seems to have any experience with them for this application. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

You solution is simple.
1) Pull those offset balljoints off the car.

If that doesn't help enough
2) Swap to stiffer springs. Less suspension compression that way.
3) Raise the car.

For reference, I'm running 400/400 rates, with a "2 finger" front gap (6" from ground to front side jack point) on my DC2 (hardly lowered much), and I periodically bang my SPC UCAs into the shock towers. Its just the price we pay for running a taller UCA without super stiff rates. If you don't absolutely need camber adjustibility for race purposes, its kind of silly to keep damaging the car.

 

So do you autocross and daily drive on the same tires?

Performance tires are MADE for negative camber. You wont experience much camber wear on them as you would on a street tire. If you do a lot of freeway cruising on a street tire and your car is lowered 2 inches or more (with toe aligned), you WILL experience excessive tire wear on the inside edges of your tires. Regardless of how often you rotate them.

If you have an RSX, then w/out a doubt you will be wasting tires.

You're saying there's no tradeoff for -4 degrees of camber on a street car. Like hell! Hard braking and hard acceleration definitely suffer.

 

so whats my best bet to aid or solve my problem, other than raising my car 1.5 inches?