Alright i swaped my jdm h22a (OBD 2) into my 97 Sh lude. i have a few problems. it starts and somewat runs fine. first big issue is my RPM gage doesnt work? all other gauges work but not the RPM gauge. oh and just so everyone is with me i have no internals but did put xtd 6 puck clutch in this motor while installing it, and besides full exhaust i now have a new skunk 2 manifold with AEM V2 intake.
so besides the rpms not working i idle real low, and even though i cant see wat it specifically is idleing at i can feel the car shake like its barelly getting air. ive tightened the idle screw all the way i think nd still crapy idle. i believe ive hooked all hoses up correctly. if you no exactly how it should be done please let me no and ill check.
on top of bad idle as soon as i turn my ac on the car shakes like its gonna blow up! any suggestions why?
the next major thing is that when i drive the car realy wont accelerate worth ****, kinda like a constant bog, but when i hit v-tech which does engage, the ******* thing skyrockets like a bat out of hell but still dosnt feal close to my slower h22a4 sh model which was sluge city.
The last thing is im not throughing any codes but ive tried three different code readers which all worked on my car before the swap and now they all say theres an error reading the car? oh and just another fyi to get you familiar with wat i have, the company sent me an lsd accord tranny. so ya dont no if that could have anything to do with it? i no theres alot to answer but please help with anything you can. thanks alot in advance

 

What ecu , distributor,speed sensor are you using, the one off the old h22 or the h22a ?

 

im using a p5m, ecu supplied from the company, the speed sensor from the jdm motor, and the external coil dizzy from my h22a4 so it would plug in to my old harness.

 

it sounds like you have a few problems.

the low idle would be due to the fact that to raise the idle, you loosen the idle screw, not tighten it.

the bogging thing sounds like you either don't have a good vac source for the MAP sensor, it isn't plugged into the right connector, or your ignition timing needs to be adjusted.

 

i guess it wasnt the idle screw i was adjusting it was the bolt on the throttle cable. oops! well i havnt ever timed before and i heard its a bitch any pointers? oh and if im right its were you turn the dizzy while looking at the flywheel? not sure just an idea. wat would you recommend bout the rpm gauge?

 

all I can say about it not getting an rpm signal is to check the wiring over, make sure the connector is plugged in well and all. If the ecu isn't getting an rpm signal I believe it would throw a code though, so you may have some other problem.

You don't want to make the throttle cable tighter to raise the idle, that will throw the computer way off and it will end up "idle bouncing". The screw is just to the left of the map sensor, its a flathead.

FYI: You need a timing light to set the timing, they're pretty expensive.
Anyways, to set ignition timing:
1) Loosen all 3 12mm bolts on the distributor enough so you can rotate it.
2) Connect your timing light
3) Remove the rubber stopper from the hole right next to the engine code plate.
4) Start the car, let it warm all the way up so that it is around 750rpm.
5) Jump the service connector.
6) Now flash the light into the hole, and turn the dizzy to where the line is in the middle of the two nubs.
7) Turn the car off. Tighten the dizzy bolts.
8) Start it and check it again to make sure the tightening didn't mess it up.

 

hey man you kick ***!!!! Im gonna try this stuff in the morning if i can get my hands on a timing light but thanks alot seriously!!!! oh one last thing would it be less expensive to just have a shop thats up the street do it rather than buying a timing light?

 

probably.

 

alright well i brung it to a known (real good) mechanic. he looked at it nd had me switch the ecu back to my old one that originally came with the car. it helped alot! i got my rpms back. the bogging is much less now so thats a big plus! i still havnt timed it cuz im waiting to get paid to eather purchase a light or have a shop do it, but my remaining problems are that the car idles at like 300 and it still boggs just not as dramatic? my buddy the mechanic said he thinks when i took off all the timing stuff i might have put it back on a couple notches off. so i was wondering if that sounds like wat could cause the bad idle and bogging?