Hey some time if i take off and try to shift in the second real fast my e brake light will flach on when i go in to gear, but i have only seen it do it in 2nd, any clue why?

 

are your ebrake lines installed correctly?

 

ya it i never change its stock, but it doesnt happen all the time, just some times when i shift fast into second, and it just flashes real quick maybe 2-3 seconds

 

The connection could be loose, and the sudden jolt could cause it to give a false reading.

I would check that, pull the center console out, and then wiggle that connection with the key in and clicked forward twice (so those dash lights/components are powered), and the e-brake off, to see if you can replicate the situation.

 

Check your brake fluid

 

Ok i will tomar any other ideas it could be? I put in a armrest eliminator and took off the metal u shape thing you screw your stock one into, could this be the reason???

 

it about a 1/4 the way full, im guna fill it and see if that is the prob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it about a 1/4 the way full, im guna fill it and see if that is the prob</TD></TR></TABLE>

definitely your problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it about a 1/4 the way full, im guna fill it and see if that is the prob</TD></TR></TABLE>

that is why your light comes on, when you accelerate fast the fluid is pushed to one side, giving the sensor a false reading.

before filling it up i would look into it further, the fluid should never be low unless, your pads are low (the lower the pads go, the lower the fluid goes. but if you add new pads and push the caliper piston back in, the fluid will rise). if that's the case you might think about replacing them and the rotors

or you have a small leak. either way, dig deeper before just adding fluid.

 

Ha yes that is exactly what i am going to do, i am putting new pads and rotors onsoon, how long do you think i could drive like this, and still be safe?

 

At the very least spend $3 an put fluid in there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At the very least spend $3 an put fluid in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

adding brake fluid will just make a mess of things when he does his brake job, fluid will over flow everywhere.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ha yes that is exactly what i am going to do, i am putting new pads and rotors onsoon, how long do you think i could drive like this, and still be safe?</TD></TR></TABLE>


you're quite safe. just don't let your pads get too low. if they are already squeeking, or worse grinding, then it's time to replace!

 

they are starting to squeek a little, i have to figure out my cat situation first then i will buy new brakes. I am getting OEM pads and OEM rotors you think i should get slotted rotors instead?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are starting to squeek a little, i have to figure out my cat situation first then i will buy new brakes. I am getting OEM pads and OEM rotors you think i should get slotted rotors instead?</TD></TR></TABLE>

mmm...buy a new cat or do my brakes? mmm...i can't decide?

uhh...with no brakes you won't have to worry about your cat problem, you'll have to worry about the car you're going to crash into in front of you!

come on, take care of the brakes first, the cat can wait. as for brakes, you will be fine with oem replacement pads and rotors. don't spend the extra money on slotted rotors. save the money for your cat. meow!

 

screw the cat the brakes are far more important. I would just go with something like brembo blanks and a good set of pads. I hear good things about hawk pads. OH I just saw that your from CA well maybe the cat is more important yeah right

 

Well, when had the same symptom of the light coming on when I accelerated. Adding brake fluid did the trick. I never had any problems. It's been 20k miles since. I don't see why adding brake fluid would make it messier.

I've changed pads and rotors since also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, when had the same symptom of the light coming on when I accelerated. Adding brake fluid did the trick. I never had any problems. It's been 20k miles since. I don't see why adding brake fluid would make it messier.

I've changed pads and rotors since also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i guess you're the exception to the rules. the reason why i said it will make a mess of things is, when you change the pads you have to push the caliper piston back in right.

well, to do this, you have to open the resevoir cap first. if there is more fluid in there than needed, where do you think the fluid is going to go when the piston is pushed back in? hmm...?

 

A little brake fluid never hurt anyone.



If it does start to overflow, it's easy enough just to bleed some out instead of leaking it out of the fill cap.

 

wlle ill do them both soon, i can get oem pads for $40 so i thought i would go for oem, and the only reason i wanted slotted or drilled, is they are on my car already form the first owner. But brembo blanks are better than oem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wlle ill do them both soon, i can get oem pads for $40 so i thought i would go for oem, and the only reason i wanted slotted or drilled, is they are on my car already form the first owner. But brembo blanks are better than oem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, on a street driven car blanks are better than anything else.

Unless you can get some of those formula 1 carbon baked blank rotors.

But those are custom and like $5000 for a rotor.

 

so should i get the brembos or OEM i get 25% off oem stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so should i get the brembos or OEM i get 25% off oem stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>

if oem would be cheaper, why ask?

 

brembo blanks go for ~$29 before shipping, so for me the difference between brembo blanks and oe rotors is like $10-20.

IMO, I just assume there's a slight different in the metallurgy.

Besides, it's cool to say you have brembo rotors.

 

ha im not guna get them cause they are cool to have, i am looking for the best rotor out of the 2. leaving the money issue out of it. Between brembo blanks and oem

 

The difference between oe rotors and brembo blanks is so minimal that you would not notice on a daily driver even if there is a difference.