is brake caliper rebuilding pretty straight forward?
I searched but could not find anything specific on this, I am planning on rebuilding my rear brake calipers, maybe the front also. I want to know if it is pretty wasy to do. Any write ups anywhere on this? Thanks
http://www.performanceforum.co....html Wes has done it and did a great write up. And with Wes stuff you know it is reliable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And with Wes stuff you know it is reliable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks!!
Wes
Thanks!!
Wes
And don't forget the "tyson trick" for putting the pistons back in!!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1818964
I've never personally done it, but it just makes way too much sense!!
Wes
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1818964
I've never personally done it, but it just makes way too much sense!!
Wes
Great info!, I just bought 2 re manufactured ones, how much is the rebuild kit? the new calipers I got were only $60 each
I just looked at the Majestic Honda site and the two rubber pieces required (for each caliper) are about 20 bucks.
What you need to know is that when a company "re-builds" disk brake calipers (except for early corvette ones), all they do is take them apart and put in new seals. The same exact thing shown in my page. They don't have to bore them due to the fact that the piston slides on the rubber seal and does NOT come in contact with the bore. The piston is made out of hardened (stainless?) steel. (drum brake slave cylinders are different in that the rubber seal moves along the bore, wearing it down)
Now this is a personal statement, but I just don't think a re-builder can do as good a job as I can!! Why? Because I'm willing to take the time to do it correctly. It doesn't take talent, just a willing to take the time to do it correctly.
So, my recommendation is that you print out my page (that "performanceforum" link) and figure out if you are comfortable doing it. If you do, you save 40 bucks per caliper.
It's really a "low stress" job.
Even if you have good working brakes, what you will find is all sorts of crap that has grown in there over the 15 years our cars have been out there. Brake fluid takes on water over time and that's what causes the crud.
Wes
What you need to know is that when a company "re-builds" disk brake calipers (except for early corvette ones), all they do is take them apart and put in new seals. The same exact thing shown in my page. They don't have to bore them due to the fact that the piston slides on the rubber seal and does NOT come in contact with the bore. The piston is made out of hardened (stainless?) steel. (drum brake slave cylinders are different in that the rubber seal moves along the bore, wearing it down)
Now this is a personal statement, but I just don't think a re-builder can do as good a job as I can!! Why? Because I'm willing to take the time to do it correctly. It doesn't take talent, just a willing to take the time to do it correctly.
So, my recommendation is that you print out my page (that "performanceforum" link) and figure out if you are comfortable doing it. If you do, you save 40 bucks per caliper.
It's really a "low stress" job.
Even if you have good working brakes, what you will find is all sorts of crap that has grown in there over the 15 years our cars have been out there. Brake fluid takes on water over time and that's what causes the crud.
Wes
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Quick answer; Yes
If it's disk brake rears, the piston unscrews (due to "self-adjusting mechanism).
If it's drum brakes, there are two pistons in the cylinder that are opposite one another. Using compressed air, one will come out. Then use a wood stick to push out the remaining one. You want to use a wood stick, not metal so that you don't score the cylinder wall.
Wes
Modified by Wes V at 6:31 PM 8/2/2007
If it's disk brake rears, the piston unscrews (due to "self-adjusting mechanism).
If it's drum brakes, there are two pistons in the cylinder that are opposite one another. Using compressed air, one will come out. Then use a wood stick to push out the remaining one. You want to use a wood stick, not metal so that you don't score the cylinder wall.
Wes
Modified by Wes V at 6:31 PM 8/2/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And don't forget the "tyson trick" for putting the pistons back in!!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1818964
I've never personally done it, but it just makes way too much sense!!
Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>
great info
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1818964
I've never personally done it, but it just makes way too much sense!!
Wes</TD></TR></TABLE>
great info
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