brake rotors
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this may have already been covered but didtn find much in the search.
do slotted or cross drilled brakes really brake any better than blanks? or do they just eat up pads? im talking for a DD/weekend race car
do slotted or cross drilled brakes really brake any better than blanks? or do they just eat up pads? im talking for a DD/weekend race car
from my understanding they do eat up brakes. but running aem/axxis pads with cross/drilled and rotors my pads actually are out lasting oem set up. the only thing i know is that there are more holes for cooling so heat will not be a big issue when it comes to a lot of break and go. but then there's a loss of surface area.
blanks more surface area and in physics that's better for stopping. only thing with that is it heats up more.
guess that's why they use ceramic discs for racing and that's money!
this is covered on HT but i don't know how thoroughly it is.
blanks more surface area and in physics that's better for stopping. only thing with that is it heats up more.
guess that's why they use ceramic discs for racing and that's money!
this is covered on HT but i don't know how thoroughly it is.
use blanks. The cheapest ones you can find. If you're racing it, they're wear items, plan on replacing them often.
The crossdrilling and the slotting creates stress risers on the surface which can crack the rotor, the uneven thickness can make the rotor warp, and the features unnecessarily chew rotors.
One thing I do recommend if you're tracking with stock brakes... cut the backing plates off.
The crossdrilling and the slotting creates stress risers on the surface which can crack the rotor, the uneven thickness can make the rotor warp, and the features unnecessarily chew rotors.
One thing I do recommend if you're tracking with stock brakes... cut the backing plates off.
Cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors don't provide any benefit over blanks, unless they have proper ventilation. Meaning, if you don't have some sort of ducting to them, to make the holes/slots vent somewhere, you're going to see no benefit AT ALL. In fact, most slotted/cross-drilled rotors don't even benefit in a properly vented situation. You'll need some higher-end cross-drilled/slotted rotors to truly see benefits.
Simple Blanks with nice pads, stainless lines, and some proper fluid will be more then what you'll ever need without swapping the engine or going full-track setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thinknology »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drilled on mine haven't really noticed a difference, the only thing I've heard (not experienced) is they crack easier... never had a problem though </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's got to be one of the most unsafe ideas I've ever read. You're telling me that you took your stock rotors, and drilled them?
Simple Blanks with nice pads, stainless lines, and some proper fluid will be more then what you'll ever need without swapping the engine or going full-track setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thinknology »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drilled on mine haven't really noticed a difference, the only thing I've heard (not experienced) is they crack easier... never had a problem though </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's got to be one of the most unsafe ideas I've ever read. You're telling me that you took your stock rotors, and drilled them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's got to be one of the most unsafe ideas I've ever read. You're telling me that you took your stock rotors, and drilled them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ I agree 100%. That's why you buy drilled rotors that are casted, not drilled.
That's got to be one of the most unsafe ideas I've ever read. You're telling me that you took your stock rotors, and drilled them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
^ I agree 100%. That's why you buy drilled rotors that are casted, not drilled.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by awang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
^ I agree 100%. That's why you buy drilled rotors that are casted, not drilled.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or just be smart and buy blanks.
^ I agree 100%. That's why you buy drilled rotors that are casted, not drilled.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or just be smart and buy blanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Simple Blanks with nice pads, stainless lines, and some proper fluid will be more then what you'll ever need without swapping the engine or going full-track setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate this misconception.
The horsepower and the size of the brakes are not related. The car could have a space shuttle booster rocket on it and not need bigger brakes.
The brake size is dependent on the weight of the car (the mass the brakes need to work against) Going bigger is because the car got heavier, or because they're overheating... bigger rotors = bigger heat sinks, so they run cooler and last longer.
For a good example, look at drag racer brakes... they're tiny.... cuz they only stop once then have a long time to cool.
For the track... eh, yeah it helps, but with race pads you probably could get away with the stock size rotors. More power + track day is gonna mean higher entry speeds for repeated braking and thats when you'll find the cooling upgrade a necessity.
I hate this misconception.
The horsepower and the size of the brakes are not related. The car could have a space shuttle booster rocket on it and not need bigger brakes.
The brake size is dependent on the weight of the car (the mass the brakes need to work against) Going bigger is because the car got heavier, or because they're overheating... bigger rotors = bigger heat sinks, so they run cooler and last longer.
For a good example, look at drag racer brakes... they're tiny.... cuz they only stop once then have a long time to cool.
For the track... eh, yeah it helps, but with race pads you probably could get away with the stock size rotors. More power + track day is gonna mean higher entry speeds for repeated braking and thats when you'll find the cooling upgrade a necessity.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boilermaker1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hate this misconception.
The horsepower and the size of the brakes are not related. The car could have a space shuttle booster rocket on it and not need bigger brakes.
The brake size is dependent on the weight of the car (the mass the brakes need to work against) Going bigger is because the car got heavier, or because they're overheating... bigger rotors = bigger heat sinks, so they run cooler and last longer.
For a good example, look at drag racer brakes... they're tiny.... cuz they only stop once then have a long time to cool.
For the track... eh, yeah it helps, but with race pads you probably could get away with the stock size rotors. More power + track day is gonna mean higher entry speeds for repeated braking and thats when you'll find the cooling upgrade a necessity.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I really wasn't using hp a relation to the upgrade. I was using the fact that the K-Series is a heavier engine, and that the owner might want to change for that reason.
I hate this misconception.
The horsepower and the size of the brakes are not related. The car could have a space shuttle booster rocket on it and not need bigger brakes.
The brake size is dependent on the weight of the car (the mass the brakes need to work against) Going bigger is because the car got heavier, or because they're overheating... bigger rotors = bigger heat sinks, so they run cooler and last longer.
For a good example, look at drag racer brakes... they're tiny.... cuz they only stop once then have a long time to cool.
For the track... eh, yeah it helps, but with race pads you probably could get away with the stock size rotors. More power + track day is gonna mean higher entry speeds for repeated braking and thats when you'll find the cooling upgrade a necessity.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I really wasn't using hp a relation to the upgrade. I was using the fact that the K-Series is a heavier engine, and that the owner might want to change for that reason.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's got to be one of the most unsafe ideas I've ever read. You're telling me that you took your stock rotors, and drilled them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No no.... lol, I was just reading back through this and I saw that and was like " uh oh i forgot to put "have" in there, that looks like I drilled them out"... I bought brembo drilled, I was looking for blanks because I agree with alot of the posts on here that blanks are probably your best bet, but they had a sale on the slotted ones and they were cheaper. Since I'm not doing any hard-core racing on my way to work in the morning... they work just fine.
Sorry for the confusion, hope you guys don't think I'm a complete idiot now lol.
That's got to be one of the most unsafe ideas I've ever read. You're telling me that you took your stock rotors, and drilled them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No no.... lol, I was just reading back through this and I saw that and was like " uh oh i forgot to put "have" in there, that looks like I drilled them out"... I bought brembo drilled, I was looking for blanks because I agree with alot of the posts on here that blanks are probably your best bet, but they had a sale on the slotted ones and they were cheaper. Since I'm not doing any hard-core racing on my way to work in the morning... they work just fine.
Sorry for the confusion, hope you guys don't think I'm a complete idiot now lol.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boilermaker1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its only about 70 lbs heavier.... thats not really enough to make a difference... may as well kick the guy out of the passenger seat next to you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But, it is a weight difference. That's all I was getting at, bud.
But, it is a weight difference. That's all I was getting at, bud.
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i thought pretty much what boilermaker is saying so it sounds like blanks is defintely the way to go. those of u running hawk pads which ones are you using? i noticed on dezod.com there are quite a few different ones
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 03turboem2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought pretty much what boilermaker is saying so it sounds like blanks is defintely the way to go. those of u running hawk pads which ones are you using? i noticed on dezod.com there are quite a few different ones</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've used the same Hawk HPS pads on both CRX w/Brembo blanks and now EX w/Brembo Drilled... no complaints whatsoever, still stopping on a dime.
I even have two sets of rear pads that fit the '91 rex and the '03 SI (Know a guy who worked at Hawk
)
I've used the same Hawk HPS pads on both CRX w/Brembo blanks and now EX w/Brembo Drilled... no complaints whatsoever, still stopping on a dime.
I even have two sets of rear pads that fit the '91 rex and the '03 SI (Know a guy who worked at Hawk
)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 03turboem2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought pretty much what boilermaker is saying so it sounds like blanks is defintely the way to go. those of u running hawk pads which ones are you using? i noticed on dezod.com there are quite a few different ones</TD></TR></TABLE>
I run Hawk HPS's.
I run Hawk HPS's.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I run Hawk HPS's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool. thanks!
I run Hawk HPS's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool. thanks!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1llmatic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't think there is a big difference between brembo blanks and oem rotors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've warped plenty of OEM rotors. I've never damaged Brembo Blanks and I drove them alot harder.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've warped plenty of OEM rotors. I've never damaged Brembo Blanks and I drove them alot harder.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oddmut »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you guys buy brembo blanks for quality? why not other blank rotors from other companies?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Personally, I think the casting is a little better on the Brembo's. It seems as though their construction is just a tad better.
Personally, I think the casting is a little better on the Brembo's. It seems as though their construction is just a tad better.
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