My right rear spring wont stick in the top of the shock perch (i think thats what it is called?)

So after a bump, the spring will fall out of place, then compress against the inside perch ledge, and then eventually move over enough to make an insanely loud THOINGGGG or THUDDD sound and move back where it is supposed to be resting.


is this normal/fixable or do I have worn out parts? or can I stick some tar up in there and make the spring stick to the perch

 

r the shocks made for ur model of car?

 

they are coilovers with hyperco springs and tokico blues

 

are the blues for ur car? and what kinda bumps are we talkin bout and what kind of speed?

 

Sounds like you are missing the piece the spring sits on. It is usually a urethane piece with a collar the size of the id of the spring, to hold it in place.

Pics if possible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by My95SlvrBlt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you are missing the piece the spring sits on. It is usually a urethane piece with a collar the size of the id of the spring, to hold it in place.

Pics if possible.
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ill try to get pics.

try this ()

imagine a donut, like the one you eat. now, hollow it out, and cut it in half, so you have 2 circles. not 2 letter Cs.

the spring seats in the circle part, between the 2 edges. but when the shock rebounds out further than the length of the spring, the spring will fall back on the inside edge of that donut (circle) and after a little bit will then fall back in place with a loud noise.

and yess the blues are for the chassis

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drewbie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but when the shock rebounds out further than the length of the spring, the spring will fall back on the inside edge of that donut (circle) and after a little bit will then fall back in place with a loud noise.
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thats my theory was that the shock rod was a bit too long and on rebound it would become unseated. also it could be the adjustment of the coilover. . the spring could be compressed so much that on rebound it becomes unseated out of the perch.

 

If I was having your problem as described here, I would drill small holes into the top hat and zip tie the spring up there.....good luck

 

I HATE the design of slip over systems yet I own Koni Race shocks on my 95 Civic Mainly b/c Koni is a great shock, not coilover design. If you have more shock travel than spring length, you are going to have this problem to a certain extent. The lower you go with your suspension, the more problems can occur. With non-stock systems we don't compress the spring into a fixed length shock assembly like a factory OEM system. We throw in a short stiff spring and set our cars down on it.. .

this is what you need in the rear bro. Zero Rate Spring helper and divider guide . I have it and it works great. A $100 setup but it's worth my money and assurance when I lift the inside rear or encounter a weird situation on the street.. .

http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=1877



http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=1876



I have bad roads in Iowa and I haven't broke a spring divider yet. I bought an extra set just incase I do break one though.. .

Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6spdKEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I HATE the design of slip over systems yet I own Koni Race shocks on my 95 Civic Mainly b/c Koni is a great shock, not coilover design. If you have more shock travel than spring length, you are going to have this problem to a certain extent. The lower you go with your suspension, the more problems can occur. With non-stock systems we don't compress the spring into a fixed length shock assembly like a factory OEM system. We throw in a short stiff spring and set our cars down on it.. .

this is what you need in the rear bro. Zero Rate Spring helper and divider guide . I have it and it works great. A $100 setup but it's worth my money and assurance when I lift the inside rear or encounter a weird situation on the street.. .

http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=1877



http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=1876



I have bad roads in Iowa and I haven't broke a spring divider yet. I bought an extra set just incase I do break one though.. .

Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

right on

 

Good idea just buy a couple of helpers but dont forget they will make the total spring length longer so you will sit higher according to the added length of the helpers.

 

You sit higher by the added length of the block (fully compressed) height of the helper spring and the thickness of the spring coupler.

I had a set of the HyperCoil helper springs, and they're a bit too soft IMO. I'm now using H&R 2" helper springs. They're quite a bit stiffer, but still fully collapse under vehicle weight. I use them on the front and rear of my track car with HyperCoil mainsprings.

This will completely solve your problems. You just have to figure out how long of a spring you need. H&R offers 4" and 2" versions that both have a 1" block height. Eibach offers various free lengths, but the H&Rs are cheaper, so I went with them.


Modified by 117 at 2:59 PM 8/12/2007

 

I don't like to be too low cuz of my k20 swap. I have a rack/slant to my ride (2 finger rear). The helper spring maybe takes up 1.5" at most when I jack up the rear. I have 8" Hyperco 850# rear springs though.

If my hypercos get too soft I'll look into the H&Rs cuz that 2" one would be perfect for me.

 

Did you notice that the Hypercoils sit a bit crooked when fully compressed? I was concerned about that when I had mine. That's another reason why I went with the H&Rs. H&R helpers have ground ends.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you notice that the Hypercoils sit a bit crooked when fully compressed? I was concerned about that when I had mine. That's another reason why I went with the H&Rs. H&R helpers have ground ends.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes I did notice this but then I looked at the setup in it's entirety. The helper spring does not actually see the cars full load. The divider does with Hyperco's setup.. . I made sure of this by inspecting the full compressed spring height to the shoulder hieght to which it fits. The main spring should still be inline with the shock itself by using the divider squared up to the bottom spring perch. I wasn't concerned about the helper spring cocking the setup sideways either b/c the divider has a pretty good fit to the threaded sleeve itself. I have my sleeve set so that the divider does not sit above the top of the shock + at most, 1/2 the bump stop's length to be sure to have full travel of the shock. I can't remember which rung it is setup on at this time. probably the 2nd from the bottom though.. .

 

So the coupler actually holds the load on the main spring? The helper does not fully collapse? The Hyperco coupler shown from Pegasus' website is only for 2.5" ID springs. I use 2.25".

Do you have any pictures you can post of your setup at full droop and with some vehicle load on the spring/shock?

 

you could also order longer springs. It adds a slight amount of weight but theirs no worry of coil bind. My car sits only slightly lower than stock, and i bought one inch longer springs so theirs actually a tad of preload so i dont worry about them comming unseated.

 

If you buy springs with the same spring rate, but a 1" longer free length, you'll raise the ride height by 1"/MR, where MR = average motion ratio of the suspension. Think about it a bit and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the coupler actually holds the load on the main spring? The helper does not fully collapse? The Hyperco coupler shown from Pegasus' website is only for 2.5" ID springs. I use 2.25".

Do you have any pictures you can post of your setup at full droop and with some vehicle load on the spring/shock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

"coupler/divider" holds the whole spring/car load onto bottom spring perch.

What I was saying is that when the helper is collapsed by the weight of the car, the load is not distributed to the spring but instead to the "coupler/divider". So yes, the helper does not fully collapse but if it did, the shoulder of the coupler is tall enough to engulf the whole helper spring. It is a ZERO rate spring so it will not have any chance to actually hold the car up.. .

I don't have any pictures. I can maybe snap some tonight. Since I have a set off extra helper springs and dividers, I'll take a picture of those too.. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the coupler actually holds the load on the main spring? The helper does not fully collapse? The Hyperco coupler shown from Pegasus' website is only for 2.5" ID springs. I use 2.25".

Do you have any pictures you can post of your setup at full droop and with some vehicle load on the spring/shock?</TD></TR></TABLE>

we have 2.25" id helpers and spacers.

 

Thanks, I machined some from some 3.75" OD aluminum stock. The Gensis aluminum couplers from Pegasus or HPR are a tad expensive at $25 a piece!

I have been considering a set of 3" Eibach tender springs to use as helpers, though.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> we have 2.25" id helpers and spacers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was just wanting to know if the coupler contacted the spring perch before the helper fully collapsed. It crossed my mind to do it this way to eliminate any misalignment in the helper, but the way I did it has more clearance between the spring and the shock. I'd really be interested in seeing your setup.

On my setup, the coupler actually holds the helper spring by the ID and the main spring by the OD. When the suspension is under load, the helper fully collapses and supports the weight of the car. I put the helpers on the top of the main springs, so getting maximum clearance between the spring and the shock was fairly important for me.

I also found the Hypercoil helpers to be too soft. The H&Rs are 50 lb/in, so they're quite a bit stiffer, but there's no way they'll hold the weight of the car, as they fully collapse with a load of 50 lbs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6spdKEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

"coupler/divider" holds the whole spring/car load onto bottom spring perch.

What I was saying is that when the helper is collapsed by the weight of the car, the load is not distributed to the spring but instead to the "coupler/divider". So yes, the helper does not fully collapse but if it did, the shoulder of the coupler is tall enough to engulf the whole helper spring. It is a ZERO rate spring so it will not have any chance to actually hold the car up.. .

I don't have any pictures. I can maybe snap some tonight. Since I have a set off extra helper springs and dividers, I'll take a picture of those too.. . </TD></TR></TABLE>