hey i have a b16a obd-o in my crx dx 1990 when i start the car it idles and runs fine and at idle wont go over the normal operationg temperature, when i begin to drive its is ok untill i start to speed up and accelerate the guage starts to go up and up when i get off and just drive liesurely the temperature goes back down, i have a new radiator, i tried 3 thermostats and a new coolant temerpature sensor. i believe the only thing left is the water pump? all the coolant hoses get hot except for the lower radiator hose stays cold while even the radiator gets hot and some how the lower hose got and air pocket after i let the pressure out of the radiator what could be causing this odd behavior

 

Well, if the lower hose stays cold then the thermostat isn't opening or water isn't being circulated. Is any coolant coming out the weep hole on the water pump?

 

i tried three different thermostats just to see if maybe i had a defective one form the factory cause i thought same thing. and no i do not believe that any water is exiting any where around the water pump i have not seen any leaks.. is it possible there could be a clog or something some where? if not i have another water pump i might try to put in but its allot of work to do for something im not sure of so that why im asking for profesional help form you guys here on Honda- tech

 

Did you trey to bleed the cooland system it sounds like there is an air bubble

 

if the bottom hose stays cool then you system is not flowing proprely. try a flush.

 

yea i tried to bleed it everytime i changed the thermostats i installed the thermostats filled up upperhose to fill up block and head then i topped off the radiator after attaching upper hose how can i get all the air bubbles out? i let it run with the cap off for 15 minutes and got to full temp never higher and only a few bubbles were emerging.

 

i just flushed it and drained the whole system when i put in my new radiator( yesterday)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90crxdxb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i tried to bleed it everytime i changed the thermostats i installed the thermostats filled up upperhose to fill up block and head then i topped off the radiator after attaching upper hose how can i get all the air bubbles out? i let it run with the cap off for 15 minutes and got to full temp never higher and only a few bubbles were emerging. </TD></TR></TABLE>

not that way. there is a bleeder nipple on the theromstat housing. it should be a 10mm or so. when you fill up the rad with water start the car, open this up (do not take off completely) and look to see if a steady stream or trickle of water comes out. if this occurs then no air is in the system. water comes out then some bubbles then obviously there is air in the system. when that happen, tighten back for a few seconds then loosen again. repeat this til there is a steady stream or trickle indicating no air in the system. good luck.

 

ok i found the wheep hole it is on the upper radiator hose where it connects to the cyclinder head. i am going to attempt doing this method.

 

ok i did your procedure for 15 - 20 mins it was still wheeping the same as start when i shut it off engine was at full temp for about 5-8 minutes. i didnt take it out for a drive and get it to heat up becuase the lower rad hose was still cold and i did not wnat to take a chance of ruining the engine

 

well all i can think of is your thermostat is not working properly. cause it should open up to allow coolant to flow through the engine thus cooling it and returning to the rad to via lower rad hose. you can take out the thermostat, get a small pot boil some water and see how well it opens when you put it in. then if you run some cold water on it it should close. good luck.

 

to eliminate this problem could i just take the thermostat out and run it with out it cause it is not a winter car so im not really conceraned with heat?

 

i boiled the old(as in last one i had in which was new 2 weeks ago) thermostat and it opened. i cooled it off and it closed back up?, is it possible i have a water pump issue? or a clogged head or passage or something?

 

bump..

 

so anyone think i should try and change the water pump with one i got off of my buddy's type R.? just to see unless you think it is possible i have a clog some where both th heater cores hoses get hot.

 

i have a very similar problem, i've changed everything but the water pump (the last owner changed the water pump 10k ago)
the car was sitting for 2 years, i'm curious if your car was also.
I 'm starting to think its corrosion within the cooling system.
I also notice my lower rad hose never gets warm .

but to answer your question try removing the thermostat first.

i should do the same, but its not my DD so ive been lazy

 

yea mine has been sitting for a little while but i was running fine and then one day on my way home from work it started to get warm.. but it is the original water pump on the engine which is a 1990 from a sir.. ill try to remove the thermostat but i don't think it will work cause the one that was in there i replaced and i boiled the old one and it opened fine.

 

Dont remove the thermostat..... Water needs time to cool in the radiator and if you remove the thermo, water will flow faster and water wont cool down that much........

What I did was that I removed the thermostat and there is a little hole on top of the base, almost where the gasket goes.. I drilled a bigger hole on there and it cools much better.......

 

yea i know what your talking about on the thermostat has like a little brass bar going in it to dangle.. but my thermostat opens so why doesnt it cool?

 

yeah, remove the brass bar and open the hole a little bit


maybe thermostat doesnt open that fast ?

 

So you want to know if you're waterpump is working....Start your car and remove a rad hose....or heater hose...and if coolant starts PUMPING out then your waterpump is moving the coolant...what you are describing sounds exactly like an airlock somewhere in your system....

start your car, remove the rad car and you will need to speed up your engine and help the bubble work its way out. also filling up your cooling system with a heater hose off also helps to relieve the chance of air bubbles...just put the hose back on when coolant starts to come out.

taking your tstat out is a stupid idea and does not fix the problem you have. Does your cooling fan come on? You said you changed your rad, but did you plug your fan back in? Did you make sure it comes on when your engine reaches operating temp.

also the "Weep" hole is on the waterpump and it lets coolant out when the shaft seal is bad. The "Bleeder" is on the upper rad hose fitting.

 

ok thanks i will try to remove a heater hose and see if it is pumping, my colling fans are on a hot switch no wired into the cooling fan relay so i can turn them on manually anytime.if i am not successfully at completing this on my own is there anyone who is a local of my area who could possibly give me a hand? when it comes to stuff like this i am a novice.. have you ever heard of a water pump going bad? i mean it looks like a pretty basic design..

 

Ive seen them leak all the time, but never where the impeller will stop spinning...

 

You're sure the thermostat is not backwards?

 

im pretty sure the thermostat only goes in one way and will not fit reverse.. but yeah i have the longer side on the thermostat facing inwards towards the engine. i think i am going to try and drill the weep hole bigger and re-bleed it again and ill attempt to see if the coolant is being pumped.. anything else i should look for or check?