So... we all know the infamous shift linkage removal...

so i tried wailing on it with a hammer and bolt
also have tried the whole vice grip method...
neither are working for me

the vice grip wont even fit...

suggestions?

heat up the pin with a torch maybe?

method one: hammering on a punch pretty much just got the punch stuck inside the pin...


method two: hammering on a screw drive with a hexagonal bit to fit inside the pin did nothing whatsoever


method three: the most recommended method... using a C clamp and sockets doesnt work because the C clamp wont fit because of the arch...

 

Holy crap that sucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stemiched &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So... we all know the infamous shift linkage removal...

so i tried wailing on it with a hammer and bolt
also have tried the whole vice grip method...
neither are working for me

the vice grip wont even fit...

suggestions?

heat up the pin with a torch maybe?

method one: hammering on a punch pretty much just got the punch stuck inside the pin...


method two: hammering on a screw drive with a hexagonal bit to fit inside the pin did nothing whatsoever


method three: the most recommended method... using a C clamp and sockets doesnt work because the C clamp wont fit because of the arch...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do not use a torch...did you fail science???? Heat expands metal...Cold contracts....Have any Liquid Nitrogen???? LOL....We had a Heck of a time getting it out of the engine on my project....Ended up cutting the shift linkage because it is getting replaced....One of the guys said the best method is to use a bolt and hammer on the bolt....Maybe try and spray some liquid wrench or something like that and let it sit for a minute!!!! I feel your pain....They banged on our engine for nearly 30 minutes before we cut the linkage...

Good Luck!!!

 

this is putting a major stall in my project...
what kind of bolt is recomended to use... i went threw my random bolts and none of them worked well...

i tried tons wd40 but that did nothing...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stemiched &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is putting a major stall in my project...
what kind of bolt is recomended to use... i went threw my random bolts and none of them worked well...

i tried tons wd40 but that did nothing...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I want to say it was one of the tranny bolts....DAMN!!! I can not remember, but I am almost positive it was a tranny bolt...

 

When I removed my shift linkage pin it wasn't easy, but the problem I ran into was a false assumption I made. I assumed that whatever I was using to push out the pin should be small enough to slip inside the hole in the pin. However, all I succeded in doing is causing the pin to expand enough to wedge itself in there even tighter and getting the screwdriver stuck. Try using a punch or screwdriver that doesn't actually fit inside the pin but is about the same size as the outside edge of it. The tricky part is making sure it's big enough not to slip into the hole, but not too big so as to get stuck on the casing around the shift pin.

I ended up getting mine out with a phillips head screwdriver, a hammer, and a lot of PB Blast. Hope this helps you out some.

 

I think sears has a roll-pin remover set you could buy...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KL14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I removed my shift linkage pin it wasn't easy, but the problem I ran into was a false assumption I made. I assumed that whatever I was using to push out the pin should be small enough to slip inside the hole in the pin. However, all I succeded in doing is causing the pin to expand enough to wedge itself in there even tighter and getting the screwdriver stuck. Try using a punch or screwdriver that doesn't actually fit inside the pin but is about the same size as the outside edge of it. The tricky part is making sure it's big enough not to slip into the hole, but not too big so as to get stuck on the casing around the shift pin.

I ended up getting mine out with a phillips head screwdriver, a hammer, and a lot of PB Blast. Hope this helps you out some.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As I recall, the bolt that one of the guys pointed too was almost exactly the same size...By George I think you've got it!!!!!

 

Use an AC compressor bolt

 

i had a pin from a door hinge laying around the house that was exactly the same size as the bitch pin. about 3 whacks with a hammer sent it flying out for me...

 

I got out two of these from two trannies in a matter of like 10 minutes. If you dont get it lined up right it will tend to slip off but just realign it and try again. i used a small c clamp with vice grips and it worked just fine..

put a small hexagonal bit into the bitch pin on the tranny side then put the flat part of the c clamp on there. then position the socket on the other side and start crankin and use the vice grips on the handle thing to get leverage

 

well... i kinda made up an alter method using a C clamp, that moved it maybe 5cm... then i whalled on it more with a punch, and finally got it out.

i think i just wasnt wailing hard enough... idk...
thanks guys.

holding that pin in your hand is like winning the supper bowl

 

supper bowl filled with what? potatoes?

 

Try using the bolt that holds the front lower control arm. It comes to a point and that will fit perfectly. Also you could use the bolt that connects the header to the cat. That always work!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use an AC compressor bolt </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ding Ding Ding!!!!!!!!!

end of thread. it fits perfectly. use some lube and beat that thing out.

SIred91 experience &gt; shift linkage pin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use an AC compressor bolt </TD></TR></TABLE>

i was able to remove the pin with an ac bolt and a hammer within 10 seconds.... you dont even have to swing the hammer that hard

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bjorn20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i was able to remove the pin with an ac bolt and a hammer within 10 seconds.... you dont even have to swing the hammer that hard</TD></TR></TABLE>

sweet, I will be using this method in my upcoming swap

 

1/4in drive extension always works for me.

 

its easy so long as what you use is the same size as the pin and wont slip inside it and stretch it out jamming it more.


i've done a handful of jobs requiring it to come off, and it was always bad. But really, nothing compared to some problems that come up. ie: crank pulley or a dowel you need to reuse seized in a head


Modified by 89s1 at 10:43 PM 7/31/2007

 

what does honda use to remove it?

 

to be honest, I did a swap with one of the techs from my dealership (i'm a detailer, not a tech) and he didnt even have a clue how to get it out, he asked me how the hell the shift linkage came off cuz I was there as the resident EF expert

It doesnt happen that often that they need to R+R a trans on a car like ours.

I went under the car and he hadnt even looked for a pin, the boot wasnt even pulled back.

 

i used a old spark plug the top pice fits on it perfect i have done a total of 6 swaps and each time i used some thing different the one thing that worked the best for me was my old spark plug that i still have to this day try that if you have one laying around

 

8mm punch, right tool for the job.

or air chisel

 

Aye, 8mm punch, took couple of whacks and it was out.

 

for archived reference:

Mine was also a PITA to get out. I tried the C clamp method, AC compressor bolt, roll pin punch, but nothing worked.

A fellow HT-er recommened a MatcoTools product that is actually designed for this sole application.



As you can see from the design, the tool actually goes through the "bitch" pin, then the outside lip forces the shift pin out. It took me about 3 shots with the hammer to the shift pin tool and it was out. Made the job extremely easy.

Link for the tool:

http://www.matcotools.com/Cata...64&ut=