I did mine two years ago but i don't remember exactly how much paint I used...I also didn't do a full color change...

this is what we're doing to my buddy's car: full color change from red to champ white. removing quarter glass and windshield. everything is coming off...mirrors, door handles...everything. car is getting a CF hood down the road so we're not worried about the hood. will be painting the inside, outside, and engine bay.

so..how much paint do i need? I was thinking a gallon and half just to be on the safe side just because it is going from red to white and I'm thinking I will have to do at least 3 coats on the outside to come up with a nice finish.

a buddy of mine just did a color change from black > white but didn't do all the details or the inside. He used a full gallon (sprayable) so...

I'm assuming a gallon of clear will be enough.

The car is a 92-95 Civic Coupe

 

Are you planning on sealing it with a white sealer first? That would definately help covering up the red. I would say you're on the right track with a gallon and a half (sprayable), just to be safe.

 

I didn't plan on sealing it just cause this is on a budget (believe it or not..hah) my friend that just did a color change went from black > white and there was nothing bleeding thru the paint. maybe it will do it in the future, but nothing yet.

i think we will probably start off with a full gallon of paint which will be able to reduce town to 2 gallons sprayable (hopefully that will be more than enough even though there is a lot of stuff to paint !)

 

Yeah I would say 2 gallons sprayable would be enough.

 

1 gallon ,and you should be fine to start (just base coat).Keep in mind you're going to use reducer. I'd also look forward in some BASF product they have very good products ,and cheap too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WihaSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you planning on sealing it with a white sealer first? That would definately help covering up the red. I would say you're on the right track with a gallon and a half (sprayable), just to be safe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it's very recommendable to spray the car with sealer for various reasons. You save alot of paint,and also protects the metal for adhesion reasons(rusting).Sealer is great stuff.Be sure when spraying sealer to lay it out as if you where spraying it on top of a newspaper,yet you can still read it perfectly fine. That's pretty much it

 

Remember, you have to mix the paint and clear with other things like hardener and reducer so you're not spraying straight paint. I used only 3 quarts of base and 2 quarts of clear for my car. The base was mixed 1:1 with reducer so that gave me 6 quarts of base all together.

 

What I like about the most common BASF sealer DP26, is that its tintable on a wide range w/ a few single stage colors. It really helps to achieve full coverage w/ certain colors that don't cover so well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Genuine Rolla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember, you have to mix the paint and clear with other things like hardener and reducer so you're not spraying straight paint. I used only 3 quarts of base and 2 quarts of clear for my car. The base was mixed 1:1 with reducer so that gave me 6 quarts of base all together. </TD></TR></TABLE>

duh of course. that's why we're mentioning "sprayable" amount..meaning the amount of paint you have after it's mixed and ready to spray.

any good methods to sanding the little tight spots in the door jambs. do you guys use sandpaper or some kind of scuff pad like for dishes...forget the name...they come in dark red and gray...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dinko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any good methods to sanding the little tight spots in the door jambs. do you guys use sandpaper or some kind of scuff pad like for dishes...forget the name...they come in dark red and gray...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I prefer scuff pads, I use the 3M pads in the gray color, and usually sanding paste. I like DuPont products so I use the yellow sanding paste they make. You can use the pads dry for doing the tight spots, less of a mess.

 

never heard of the paste?

please lend your insight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dinko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">never heard of the paste?

please lend your insight </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's got the consistency of toothpaste basically. It has some grit to it, you can put about a 3 inch line on the area you're prepping, wet down your scuff pad, and go over the area rubbing the sanding paste all over the panel. You've gotta make sure you're rubbing it in hard enough, usually it'll foam up like soap when you're doing it right, and it'll prep a rather large area with a small amount.

Or were you being sarcastic?

 

hah no im serious...cuz i hate taking the time to do the corners (even though i wont paint until its all done right) but when its not your car you gotta have a lot of self-will-power.

whats the correct name for this paste? who makes it? sorry probably another noob question.

 

I believe it's DuPont 2311S which is yellow in color and used for prepping panels, and they also make 2310S which is blue in color and is specifically for plastic parts, it cleans the raw plastic as it scuffs. There is a brand we use here at the shop it's called Scuff Stuff, but I can't tell you if it's any good, cause I now work as an Estimator and don't get to use it

Definition of 2310S:
DuPont™ Plas-Stick® 2310S™ is a preparation paste that greatly reduces the need for pre-baking new,
unprimed plastic parts. It eliminates the need to pre-wipe new plastic parts with plastic cleaning cleaning
solvent. The result is increased productivity and a simpler process.

Definition of 2311S:
DuPont™ 2311S™ Sanding Paste is designed for preparing body panels for basecoat blends. It will
allow the technician to abrade the repair surface efficiently with the yellow color giving a good visual
aid in tracking the work. An added benefit to DuPont™ Sanding Paste is that the residue can be
removed effectively with water. Using 2311S™ will help minimize problems in panel preparation
which can lead to poor blends.


Modified by WihaSi at 3:29 PM 8/1/2007

 

I was going to suggest to seal it first but if your low on budget i guess you can get a gallon or gallon and a half just to be safe...remember that your going to mix it anyways 1 to 1 (one portion of paint and one of basemaker) the basemaker helps alot..and gives you more paint...also white should cover the red with 3-4 coats of paint and a good finish of clear with 2-3 wet coats ...good luck...

 

i think instead of buying a gallon and a half. just buy a gallon and with the money you save from the other half get some sealer. it will be a lot better you wont have to shoot 3 to 4 coats to cover the red. besides Im pretty sure a gallon is enough for a hatch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IP RACING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think instead of buying a gallon and a half. just buy a gallon and with the money you save from the other half get some sealer. it will be a lot better you wont have to shoot 3 to 4 coats to cover the red. besides Im pretty sure a gallon is enough for a hatch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Even with sealer on it you would want to spray 3 coats of base for complete coverage.

 

yup...im gonna spray the **** outta the outside.

how much does sealer run for? i dont think i'd need a lot of it...cuz im just trying to cover the "big" areas correct?

btw...it's not a coupe...it's this car

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1971429

 

Sealer is gonna run you about the same amount as base coat, maybe a bit cheaper. You don't "need" it, but it's definatley good to put over repair areas, especially if the filler primer you are using is gray (most are). The last thing you want, is to spray the whole car, clear it, then notice bleed through from the primer. So I wouldn't worry about sealing the whole car, just focus on your repair areas.

 

cool. we'll I'm gonna be priming the whole roof (you can see that if you click the link) so i dont think i'd use it up there...but i'd like to seal pretty much the rest of the car (not including the inside)