I troll Honda-Tech like an animal trying to find quality information but I need some help. Anywho, Im looking for basic turbo setup info and a direction to go in with my goals for next autocross/trackday season. Been autocrossing for 4 years now and I want to make my car much, much, much faster. Plus I like stomping STI's and other 30+grand machines.

1990 Honda Civic Si
OEM D16A6 w/183k
Laptop w/Zdyne

Goals/Application:
175whp or more with QUICK spool and lots of rev range.
Meaning a good 3500-4000rpm of meaty powercurve.
Ideally Id like to keep the engine's internals stock for simplicity sake, as if something happens I have an extra motor available for cheap.
Im going to attempt source a cable trans w/LSD installed already.

So to suffice, if I could be pointed in the right direction as far as individual setup parts/kits/components and your theories that would be great!

 

14b or 16g will get you that powerband and make your goal easily. You can build a setup like that relatively cheap. All you need is a log manifold, 14b, 16g, or small T3 (.42/.48) and a simple setup after that....175whp isn't that hard to come by....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnny6speed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Plus I like stomping STI's and other 30+grand machines.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wired the OBD1 conversion on a local guy's 93 LS swap into a gutted 90 DX hatch. When I say gutted I mean gutted - nothing left to take out, any further weight reduction would require sawzall, tube frame, fiberglass body.

Bone stock drivetrain, cheap eGay header and a filter on a stick, dry rotted 175/70R13 tires, and it pulled an STi traffic light to traffic light two times back to back, got the guy by 1.5-2 cars immediately. Goforth has video of the car turning flat 9.0's on the 1/8th on said dry rotted crap tires, pulling stock Evo8 and a few F-bodies and the like out of the hole.

Not to deride your intelligence or driving ability, or other brands of cars, but with more than ~110 whp being your goal maybe you should set your sights a little higher than stock Scoobies? Be a man! Destroy your car in the process of getting it down to 1800 lbs! You know you want to.

 

Id love to see 1800lbs! In the future I will be competing in the Street Modified class in SCCA Solo 2 events. Right now in STS trim Im @ 2170lbs. My goal is 2000lbs after turbo setup and the like.

I already stomp stock boost buggies on the autocross course, I just want to walk them in a straight line now too

 

Like JD was saying, you dont need boost to pull on stock turbo cars...my buddy Troy has a CTR swapped EK hatch w/ a few creature comforts still in tact, but it can pull STi's and EVOs from a light...also when the time comes where one of them does give him a hard time, he has direct port nitrous ready and waiting

If you stick w/ your original plan, you shouldn't have a hard time beating a lot of factory turbo cars....another thing to consider would be a mini me swap along w/ the turbo setup

 

Meaning in an F/I application the Z6 head will flow better then my A6 head? What are expected gains if doing so?

 

I've never seen the merits of replacing the A6 cylinder head, in fact I prefer them. A $75 Delta cam, compatible with the stock A6 valvesprings, makes healthy A6 &gt;= healthy Z6 any day of the week. You get a bigger combustion chamber with the A6, and less CR means less volatility when you start beating on the car in a short auto-x course.

Just my $0.02, frankly with either head you aren't going to have a problem blowing your power and performance goals out of the water.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just my $0.02, frankly with either head you aren't going to have a problem blowing your power and performance goals out of the water.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1

 

Alright good information so far!

Log manifold, Mitsubishi bolt pattern. I can start with a 14b and later should I choose to want more power I can upgrade to a 16g. Who makes a decent log manifold?

FMIC, something small and light, due to rules in Street Modified I cannot cut into my bumper support anymore then 1lb of weight reduction. Whats a nice small one for an EF?

BOV Recommendations?

3 inch dp, with 3 inch exhaust? Or 2.5?

 

I would do a log mani and a T3 super 60, quick spool and plenty of power ban & potential.
You can get a 27x6x2.5 under the stock bumper support with no cutting of the support.

 

+1

 

i think a t3 .42/.48 is right up your alley spools fast, and wont die uptop its a perfect match for stock d- series motors. Im glad you have zydne good tuning, your off to a good start, get some 450 injectors to save cash, a good cast log manifold will do you well, maybe arp headstuds for extra insurance, 3" open downpipe and id call it a day, i bet 2.5" wouldnt really cause much restriction for the powerlevel.

 

You have a lot of miles on your a6. You should do a simple rebuild; it's cake. You have a very easy car/cheap car to turbo. I'd use (and am using) either a t25 or 14b.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2057902

Good luck,

-Justin

 

Definately go with a 14b over a t25.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by herecomesboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Definately go with a 14b over a t25. </TD></TR></TABLE>
..

 

LOL, do you agree/disagree?

 

your best bet is a T3 .42/.48 but if you want really good D-specific advice, go to http://www.turbod16.com and see what they have to say

 

Yes Ive been trolling both turbod16/honda-tech for good info. Seems like its down to personal preference between turbos. IE: 14b vs T3 Variant.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would do a log mani and a T3 super 60, quick spool and plenty of power ban & potential.
You can get a 27x6x2.5 under the stock bumper support with no cutting of the support.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good advice.. That's what I'm doing for my temporary boost setup

 

You sure that 200Hp in a Civic is enough to make you competitive in SM? There are a lot of well prepped cars in that class here in Phx. Enough of them running around that we decided against running our turbo CRX in tha class. Of course if you are just worried about straight time, and not converted time, then it should be a lot of fun.

Definitely stick with the quickest spool you can get, and still reach your HP goals. You'll need the best throttle response you can get, and for the power to come on as quickly as possible. Nothing sucks more than coming out of a corner and waiting for the power to come on. I'd even be checking out some anti-lag measures. Anything goes in SM, so do it up big!

Craig

 

Well if he says he's already mopping up the class he's in, what's wrong with advancing to the next level? Isn't progression the goal of this sport?

I too suggest the .42/.48 50trim T3, as long as you run a 3" DP & exhaust. A cheap log mani would mean fast spool time, around 200whp, a wide powerband, and still good response. For more power you could upgrade the cam or use a 60trim T3, but in the case of a non-vtec sohc, you'll usually increase spool time with either mod.

 

Locally I crush people STS trim. And have been pax champion in my local area since 2005. So Im advancing to the next level. Not the national level but regional and divisional.

Im shooting for 200whp and a broad powerband to start with. As that power level and 1900-2000lbs should be a hoot. Ill add more if needed.

 

i have a t3 42/48 on my bone stock 190k d16a6 with a log mani and a 2 1/2 DP i have full boost at about 3,000 RPM and i autocross my car as well it works out pretty good IMO

 

Thank you Matt, that makes me feel warm and fuzzy.

 

haha thanx what tranny are u running?