I don't feel like buying Si RLCA's.. read my new idea.
I noticed the only tiny little difference between the Si RLCA's and dx RLCA's is just that tiny little area where you can put the bolt for the Si rear swaybar into. My question, is why not just drill that same hole into the dx RLCA? it will be a little lower, maybe at most an inch.. could this cause major complications?
I know I'm going to be bashed to hell because lots of people on here are all about the super clean, everything well done, non-ghetto, JDM style not that theres anything wrong with it but I'm more the cheap ghetto whatever works kind of style, so, will my idea work or is there going to be serious complications caused? also i could very easily get a little block of metal, cut it down, bolt it to the top of the rlca, and drill a hole in it so that the hole is in the exact Si place.
I know I'm going to be bashed to hell because lots of people on here are all about the super clean, everything well done, non-ghetto, JDM style not that theres anything wrong with it but I'm more the cheap ghetto whatever works kind of style, so, will my idea work or is there going to be serious complications caused? also i could very easily get a little block of metal, cut it down, bolt it to the top of the rlca, and drill a hole in it so that the hole is in the exact Si place.
no the ST rear sway bar comes with brackets that mounts it to the shock and brackets for the frame. i dunno if i would drill the holes or not, on one hand i dont think it would be a huge deal then on the other hand...just try to get some off of a junkyard one or something.
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Also, I don't see why someone hasn't done this before, it could make the 13mm rear sway bar INSANELY more stiff

Wouldn't this make the bar just insanely stiff to the point of it not being able to flex at all really? A very thin bar of metal would be perfect in my opinion welded on there.
(The red part would be the new metal bar btw)

Wouldn't this make the bar just insanely stiff to the point of it not being able to flex at all really? A very thin bar of metal would be perfect in my opinion welded on there.
(The red part would be the new metal bar btw)
Just worked on a 88 DX hatch that has the type R style rear lower control arms, It has holes drilled in the right spot for the swaybar to bolt to it looks like. They are not tapped but i would use a nyloc bolt on the inside anyway or weld one on. Anyway when i compared the arms off the car with the DA teg ones i had sitting around the swaybar link hole is in the exact same spot it looks like. I would post pics but already finished the job. We all know the DA ones are same length just the shock mount is moved like a 1/2 inch. Just thought i would share something i noticed that may help. Getting closer to the topic though i would not drill through the stock DX one. maybe weld a nut to the side of it and screw the endlink bolt into that. Grade 10 nut and a good weld should hold up well.
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