Subwoofer help !
Subwoofers can be a must when it comes to listening to music when you need a little bass, but subs can also be very heavy. im not sure if anyone actually knows what weighs what.. but my question is what is a good subwoofer that won't weigh down my car too much? thanks
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
This could fill your hole post. Just a start. Pioneer slim subs, mtx 4500, kicker slim and cvr. Also it depends on how you make the enclosure and size.
Well what do you call heavy......the heaviest sub(12") i know is around 70-80lbs.....why dont know want any added weight....are you trying to corner balance you car for autocrossing...if not i dont see it being any big concern
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Acccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Subwoofers can be a must when it comes to listening to music when you need a little bass, but subs can also be very heavy. im not sure if anyone actually knows what weighs what.. but my question is what is a good subwoofer that won't weigh down my car too much? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're so focused on racing, that you're worried about a sub weighing too much then don't buy one... It's sprung weight anyway, in the back no less, I bet you won't be able to tell the difference.
If you're so focused on racing, that you're worried about a sub weighing too much then don't buy one... It's sprung weight anyway, in the back no less, I bet you won't be able to tell the difference.
I didn't see you mention racing, just that you didn't want to weigh down the car too much.
A 10" sub in a small sealed box, along with the amp to drive it, will not be noticeable.
I do autocross my car, so any extra weight is an issue, so the system I have has no sub(s) or off-board amps, just an Alpine HU and 4 Eclipse 6.5" speakers, along with custom installation of the speakers.
If you sat in my car, you will think there is a sub and amp, and depending on what kind of bass head you are, you can get away without a sub and amps, keep in mind I am an old fart that likes Frank Zappa, Alice Cooper, and Billy Idle, did I mention Frank Zappa and the Mothers of Invention?
94
A 10" sub in a small sealed box, along with the amp to drive it, will not be noticeable.
I do autocross my car, so any extra weight is an issue, so the system I have has no sub(s) or off-board amps, just an Alpine HU and 4 Eclipse 6.5" speakers, along with custom installation of the speakers.
If you sat in my car, you will think there is a sub and amp, and depending on what kind of bass head you are, you can get away without a sub and amps, keep in mind I am an old fart that likes Frank Zappa, Alice Cooper, and Billy Idle, did I mention Frank Zappa and the Mothers of Invention?
94
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you sat in my car, you will think there is a sub and amp, and depending on what kind of bass head you are, you can get away without a sub and amps </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree and will say that sound deadning and applied well and properly in key places will greatly improve mid-bass response, almost to where if you have components with adequate mid-bass drivers that have decent x-max, fs, etc and power handling, a sub-bass system will not be absolutely needed. Much of the music you listen to has a lot of mid bass from 80Hz to 500Hz which sounds 'lost' without deadning. Unless you're looking for bass you can feel more than you can hear, sub-bass/subwoofers aren't absolutely needed.
FCM, i'm sure you could add to this response...
If you sat in my car, you will think there is a sub and amp, and depending on what kind of bass head you are, you can get away without a sub and amps </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree and will say that sound deadning and applied well and properly in key places will greatly improve mid-bass response, almost to where if you have components with adequate mid-bass drivers that have decent x-max, fs, etc and power handling, a sub-bass system will not be absolutely needed. Much of the music you listen to has a lot of mid bass from 80Hz to 500Hz which sounds 'lost' without deadning. Unless you're looking for bass you can feel more than you can hear, sub-bass/subwoofers aren't absolutely needed.
FCM, i'm sure you could add to this response...
yeah, i do autocross and i currently have two 12s and they are super heavy. when i do run on the track i always leave the subs at home. i was looking for a lightweight sub.. but i guesss ill just do what ive been doing.. thanks for the help.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I agree and will say that sound deadning and applied well and properly in key places will greatly improve mid-bass response, almost to where if you have components with adequate mid-bass drivers that have decent x-max, fs, etc and power handling, a sub-bass system will not be absolutely needed. Much of the music you listen to has a lot of mid bass from 80Hz to 500Hz which sounds 'lost' without deadning. Unless you're looking for bass you can feel more than you can hear, sub-bass/subwoofers aren't absolutely needed.
FCM, i'm sure you could add to this response...
</TD></TR></TABLE> Nothing to add, my front speakers ar mounted to custom MDF plates and extensive Dynamating was done in the doors, including the replacement of the vapor barrier with a single sheet of Dynamat.
The rear speakers are installed in custom MDF and fiberglass cabinets and some, [much less] Dynamating in the rear, about 2 sqft pre side.
The tweeters are also disabled on the rear speakers.
The system was originally designed as a demo for what can be done without off-board amps and subs, just turns out it also works well as a daily driver that is autocrossed.
94
I agree and will say that sound deadning and applied well and properly in key places will greatly improve mid-bass response, almost to where if you have components with adequate mid-bass drivers that have decent x-max, fs, etc and power handling, a sub-bass system will not be absolutely needed. Much of the music you listen to has a lot of mid bass from 80Hz to 500Hz which sounds 'lost' without deadning. Unless you're looking for bass you can feel more than you can hear, sub-bass/subwoofers aren't absolutely needed.
FCM, i'm sure you could add to this response...
</TD></TR></TABLE> Nothing to add, my front speakers ar mounted to custom MDF plates and extensive Dynamating was done in the doors, including the replacement of the vapor barrier with a single sheet of Dynamat.The rear speakers are installed in custom MDF and fiberglass cabinets and some, [much less] Dynamating in the rear, about 2 sqft pre side.
The tweeters are also disabled on the rear speakers.
The system was originally designed as a demo for what can be done without off-board amps and subs, just turns out it also works well as a daily driver that is autocrossed.
94
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