Hey guys does anyone have a link on how to change a front wheel bearing? I already have the knuckle off I just need to know what to do now I have a friend with a press.

 

I believe you press out the hub, remove the splash shield, then press out the bearing.

 

Search for a post by Willard, I believe he's got a thread chock full of this sort of info.

Edit: This is the thread... though it looks like some of the info is gone.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=720159

 

Make very sure you are supporting stuff properly during the press operations so you don't press 'across' the *****...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Search for a post by Willard, I believe he's got a thread chock full of this sort of info.

Edit: This is the thread... though it looks like some of the info is gone.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=720159</TD></TR></TABLE>

Edit: H-T won't allow me to post the link to the other website that still has the write up from Willard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Try this one </TD></TR></TABLE>


DID...

The webpage cannot be found
HTTP 404
Most likely causes:
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If you clicked on a link, it may be out of date.

What you can try:
Retype the address.

Go back to the previous page.

Go to honda-tech.com and look for the information you want.

More information

This error (HTTP 404 Not Found) means that Internet Explorer was able to connect to the website, but the page you wanted was not found. It's possible that the webpage is temporarily unavailable. Alternatively, the website might have changed or removed the webpage.

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


DID...

The webpage cannot be found
HTTP 404
Most likely causes:
There might be a typing error in the address.
If you clicked on a link, it may be out of date.

What you can try:
Retype the address.

Go back to the previous page.

Go to honda-tech.com and look for the information you want.

More information

This error (HTTP 404 Not Found) means that Internet Explorer was able to connect to the website, but the page you wanted was not found. It's possible that the webpage is temporarily unavailable. Alternatively, the website might have changed or removed the webpage.

For more information about HTTP errors, see Help.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, apparently big brother doesn't want links to a competing website posted on H-T

Willard's complete write-up is still available on a different site.

 

I just checked "that" site and didn't find it...

 

Best I could do...

Remove wheel/caliper/rotor/abs line/brake line stay.
Remove 32mm nut and the 3-17mm nuts.
Remove the hub/spindle assembly.

Honda wheel bearing part number:
44300-S5A-004

ARP Wheel stud part number:
100-7708 (12mm x 1.50" Late model GM)

Bearing install:
28 Ton 32" mechanical press


Nasty mess:




Getting ready to press the hub out of the old bearing


After the hub is out remove the large 'c' clip and press the bearing out of the spindle




We-todd-did way to remove the inner race from the hub (Thanks D!).
Use the grinder to cut 3 notches in the race and pull it off (mine needed a little heat to move).






The hub is clean and ready for install (after the new studs are put in).


Once the old bearing is out of of the spindle... clean everything and install the new bearing. (there is only one way for it to go in).


Install the 'c' clip.


The metal seal of the bearing goes inboard.


With the new bearing already in the spindle.... press the hub into the new bearing.


Seated fully.



Wheel stud time:
OE vs ARP


The hub after the stock stud was pressed out.


The first one trial fit.


Using a 15/16" deep well socket for stud removal (let the stud fall into the socket)and install (let the stud end stick into the opening for the ratchet).


All done with the studs. :bling:


I did drill out the hub with a 500/1000" (1/2") drill bit to make the stud install easier. There was plenty of resistance when they were being pushed in and the better knurl pattern on the ARP studs will make sure they stay in place.


Pile of parts (new/old) and the sockets (2-1/2", 2-7/16", 2", 1-3/4", 32mm, 15/16" deep) used to help with the pressing:



Putting stuff back tgether:
Pile of tools at the car


Install is the reverse of the removal process.


:BLING:


Make sure you stake the 32mm nut in place!



info:
-make sure you don't mess up the new bearing by pressing in the wrong place (ie. stressing the new bawl bearings)
-I had to tap the sp00n lugs to clean up the threads before they would pull onto the new studs
-This is my second drivers side wheel bearing (one at ~29,000 miles this one at 61,000 miles)
-Track mileage and brake heat kill bearings
-I plan to replace the passengers side bearing soon to see what shape the bearing is in and to install 5 more studs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just checked "that" site and didn't find it... </TD></TR></TABLE>

PM'd you the link. If anyone else wants it, the link works if I PM it, but not if I post it here.

 

^^^ Sorry the pics aren't included, I don't enough time to copy/paste all of the links for them^^^

 

Remove spaces

http:// h tuner .com/topic/524/?hl=

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove spaces

http:// h tuner .com/topic/524/?hl=</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL @ D

Somehow, I don't see that post staying for long.