I finally saved up enuff to do the h2b swap into my EK. I just got a few questions b4 continuing on.
1. How come only the EVO h2b kit uses the clutch slave cylinder adapter and not the QSD kit? (Or was i misinformed?)

2. Is there any way i can skip shaving the block ? I just don't find that step very attractive....

3. Can anyone link me to any comparisions between the QSD kit vs the Evo/Bisi kit Thanks. I tried to search but couldnt really find anything

Thats about it i guess b4 i get this project going
Thanks

 

1. dont know

2. if u do it just right there shouldn't be a problem.

3. ...don't know

about to do an h2b swap also into my Em1

 

search up bense he had a write up on his h2b conversion

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1998426
there you go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I finally saved up enuff to do the h2b swap into my EK. I just got a few questions b4 continuing on.
1. How come only the EVO h2b kit uses the clutch slave cylinder adapter and not the QSD kit? (Or was i misinformed?)

2. Is there any way i can skip shaving the block ? I just don't find that step very attractive....

3. Can anyone link me to any comparisions between the QSD kit vs the Evo/Bisi kit Thanks. I tried to search but couldnt really find anything

Thats about it i guess b4 i get this project going
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. You've been misinformed, the Evo kit has Zero issues with the clutch slave cylinder.

2. You will need to shave with both the QSD and Evo Kits, but the QSD kit requires that you shave a much larger section of the block.

3. Search, there is alot of info on this.

 

Someone who's done a lot of reading on this subject, and may be able to direct you to some good information would be ek forever guy

EDIT: And Bense, duh.


Modified by BlackoutVTi at 12:11 PM 7/27/2007

 

I know a little.

There's no getting around shaving the back of the block, you're axles won't fit otherwise.

Really all your answers can be found in benses h2b faq and his f2d write-up.

Here's the faq.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1998426

Here for a photo of why you need to grind.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2043310

Another useful thread.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2029332

I know a few hardcore h2b'ers that run the qsd kit. It's $500 cheaper and does the same job. The evo kit has minor conveniences over it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1. You've been misinformed, the Evo kit has Zero issues with the clutch slave cylinder.

2. You will need to shave with both the QSD and Evo Kits, but the QSD kit requires that you shave a much larger section of the block.

3. Search, there is alot of info on this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here you go again, answering questions improperly trying to steer potential customers into buying your kits.

I'll answer the questions that the OP posted. I don't sell any products, I am not affiliated with any company, I only offer knowledge and truth here.

Evo vs QSD H2B comparison.

Here's the differences

Evo uses a custom flywheel, QSD uses a flywheel spacer with extended ARP bolts that allows you to use a stock b-series flywheel.

EVO it moves the transmission to provide more engine/framerail clearance (driverside). QSD keeps the B trans in the stock location.

I believe that the Evo kit also moves the whole engine down a little bit in the bay, QSD provides more ground clearance.

QSD adapter brackets (intermediate shaft + timing belt mount) are mig welded and "not as pretty as the custom evo mounts" Both will hold up fine.

Evo requires less material to be removed than the QSD kit (not really that big of a deal but I guess it's a plus)

QSD currently offers EK kits, EVO does not yet

QSD costs less than the Evo kit.

Both kits have a very high success rate. Both will serve you well

Which kit would I use? It depends. I like how the Evo kit uses the custom flywheel, but I like the price of the QSD kit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Here you go again, answering questions improperly trying to steer potential customers into buying your kits.

I'll answer the questions that the OP posted. I don't sell any products, I am not affiliated with any company, I only offer knowledge and truth here.

Evo vs QSD H2B comparison.

Here's the differences

Evo uses a custom flywheel, QSD uses a flywheel spacer with extended ARP bolts that allows you to use a stock b-series flywheel.

EVO it moves the transmission to provide more engine/framerail clearance (driverside). QSD keeps the B trans in the stock location.

I believe that the Evo kit also moves the whole engine down a little bit in the bay, QSD provides more ground clearance.

QSD adapter brackets (intermediate shaft + timing belt mount) are mig welded and "not as pretty as the custom evo mounts" Both will hold up fine.

Evo requires less material to be removed than the QSD kit (not really that big of a deal but I guess it's a plus)

QSD currently offers EK kits, EVO does not yet

QSD costs less than the Evo kit.

Both kits have a very high success rate. Both will serve you well

Which kit would I use? It depends. I like how the Evo kit uses the custom flywheel, but I like the price of the QSD kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Lighten up!!! I sell the kit, but I also run it in my personal car and have first hand knowledge about the swap. He asked a question and I gave him a truthful answer, nothing improper or misleading about that.

 

To the OP, do your research

 

issue #2 is why I use my H tranny... Oh yea and the 1000 bux! that too

 

Well first of all, THANKS everyone that chime in and gave me good replies especially Bense and sorrie if i seemed like i didnt do any research but honestly i did. I just couldnt find the exact answer to some things. PLus all the threads were LONG soo i might have missed some things.

Actually my main question is y the Evo kit has to use the slave cylinder adapter and y the Qsd doesnt but now i know y.
One last question IF NO one minds.... If the Evo kit comes wiht a custom flywheel.. does that means everytime i want to get a new flywheel i have to get it from them? And wut about t he mounts samething too?

If this question has been covered PLEASE link me t here cuz i might have honestly missed!
THANKS!!

 

Wow lots of GOOD info here. Love ur project bense

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. How come only the EVO h2b kit uses the clutch slave cylinder adapter and not the QSD kit? (Or was i misinformed?)...
THANKS!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

The hydro trans kits from both have always included a slave spacer, unless it's a cable trans and not needed. The H22 casting is larger due to balancing shafts and relocation of the clutch slave cylinder is required.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohclude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One last question IF NO one minds.... If the Evo kit comes wiht a custom flywheel.. does that means everytime i want to get a new flywheel i have to get it from them? And wut about t he mounts samething too?
THANKS!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but you shouldn't have to buy a complete new flywheel, just the pad inserts from them.

 

Thanks for the info! I guess now i can make up my mind on which kit to buy! THANKS

 

lol i love that excuse for the h2b swap "becuase b transmissons are cheaper"


not waht the market place says honda accord, acura cl, and honda prelude trans go for way cheaper than a b16 trans, and about half the price of a itr-lsd equipped model

i say save the 2 grand and go straight h sereis or even k series

looking at just over 11 grand for my turbo k build

not to mention the EXTRA speed and if i can find the trans (only 800 bucks yes 800 bucks when you see itr lsd trans go for over 1200 easy a lsd 6 speed k20a trans not a2 k20a-r)


the non-frm sleeves, (yup ovalized aluminum with iron pressed in) the block girdle (look it up) timing chain, btw im running a k24 and ease of taking out the balencer shafts (just in the oil pump )


Modified by k powered ej1 at 1:26 PM 7/29/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k powered ej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
looking at just over 11 grand for my turbo k build </TD></TR></TABLE>

qsd kit - $750
ITR tranny - $1200
h22 longblock from h motors - $1200
Turbo and all it's accouterments - $2000 maybe

That's only $5,150.

with the money you spend on your turbo k-swap, i would officially have ~$5,850 to sleeve, hone, bore, stroke, etc my h swap provided you have a 98+ itr tranny.



That's what the h2b is about, doing more for less. Yes, b-series tranny's are a little more expensive that H trannys, but the transmissions themselves have 10x the aftermarket support, don't require hacking of the firewall to run cables form the shifter, and is overall a more track friendly setup.

besides, factoy H dynos look more impressive to me than factory rsx-s dynos.

stock H22


Stock K20a2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">qsd kit - $750
ITR tranny - $1200
h22 longblock from h motors - $1200
Turbo and all it's accouterments - $2000 maybe

That's only $5,150.

with the money you spend on your turbo k-swap, i would officially have $5,850 to sleeve, hone, bore, stroke, etc my h swap.



That's what the h2b is about, doing more for less. Yes, b-series tranny's are a little more expensive that H trannys, but the transmissions themselves have 10x the aftermarket support, don't require hacking of the firewall to run cables form the shifter, and is overall a more track friendly setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>


try to turbo your car to any usable degree with stock sleeves on a h22

see what happens..............................you seriously dont know much and you play it off as you're a h2b legend when you havent done the swap yet!

so drilling 2 holes in your floor pan for some cables and adding a karcepts kit to my car is worse off than grabbing the biggest hammer i can and bang the **** out of my drivers side frame rail, btw resell value on the car fgoes to **** when you purposefully destroy a part of your frame, get in a front end accident your car is alreadt weakend easier to toatl (you can weld new frame rail pieaces from the firewally foward but its a bitch and it never will be right) not to mention shaving transmisson cases!!!!!!!

also werent the earlier qsd deshigns ****? had your engine sitting sideways and putting wayy too much stress on your tranny and axels? and wearing our needle bearings way to ******* quickly?

ALSO IF YOU LOOK AT THE EVO KIT ITS IN THE 2 GRAND RANGE

plus you think your going to just slap on a h22 onto a b series trans and not mdify anything?

you forgot the new crank pully, balencer shaft elimnator kit also i heard you need to run a bseries alternator if you dont have itll cost something its not free!

shift linklage for the b series, (you cant use any of your d sereis ****)

ecu for the motor, mounts, harness, axels all of that costs money

2 can play that came only add the biggest things together and pretend all that ***** free

-k24 block 1200 bucks
-trans 800 bucks
-turbo 100

a k20 swap costs 2100!!!!!!!!!!!



if you think you're going into that swap like that you bette pull out ANOTHER loan to buy the 100 dollar ecu, the 250 dollar lifetime warrnaty axels (or dss if you want exepct in the 500 dollar range) shiftlinkages go for what no like 120 bucks for a b series? probrably need a EM1 linkage, you cant use a d series ek forever

you think you can get a quality turbo kit that'll make more power than a k24 on FRM h22 sleeves for 2 grand? .............................. alright...expect at least 3 grand in this area if you want quality **** not ebay **** that ^ he might argue is still "quality"

yea those knock off tial wastegates and greddy type-r megasonic, and XSPOWER poorly jb welded and XSpower t3/t4 turbos are real qualuity ****!


not to mention the extra (.2 displacement) biggest honda facotry 4 cyl made FTW

 

That's what my other $6000 could be doing. Remember?

Every other h2b'er seems to be fine, I've yet to meet one h2b'er that had a complaint.

You're retarted, not even that much is banged away, takes like 3 minutes with a big ball peen. I've helped two guys at TSP shop with their h2b setups.


Do some research before you talk smack, evo kits are from $800-1200

a lot of h2b'ers are very content and prefer the qsd kit.

Sure, why not, h2b in stock form is a tire spinning monster.

EK's don't require all of that, shift linkages are cheap. Ecu, mounts, axles come with the longblock from hmotors.

You're retarded and 8/10 k-swap owners will disagree with your price list.


You clearly don't know anything about building good credit, liability, or my personal life. I have a good job, and HAVE the money to start my build, i'd just rather take an interest free loan out to build my credit.

The first DSM turbo build I put together made 330 whp on a stock ls motor. Andy still uses the piping I welded together for him. The turbo parts etc cost us altogether about $1200, then the tune was ~$300 at KT performance in Mesa.

before you baffle anyone with your lack of intelligence and ignorant k-series fanboy'ism, get your facts straight and find better points than my personal life.

Didn't you read the issue of Honda tuning (i think it was honda tuning, maybe evo magazine) that had the journalists test driving a qsd h2b kit and saying that they preferred it's track ability over stock k20's? 1 less gear means less shifting around a roadcourse. The whole article is about how the 3 journalists are amazed with the swap and that it costs so little in comparison to a k-swap. Sure, some people can get a k-swap done for $5000, but STILL, the common k-swap runs $8000-12000 with custom parts/builds etc.

If k-swaps were so unbelievably cheap, trust me, I'd be installing one in my car dude. I love k20's, it's just not practical for my budget, time, and access to good tuners.


Modified by ek forever guy at 2:07 PM 7/29/2007

 

[QUOTE=k powered ej1]


try to turbo your car to any usable degree with stock sleeves on a h22

see what happens..............................

hmm... my stock sleeves did 366whp for 2 full years of straight molestation without a problem quite usable in my opinion... The engine's leak-down values are still under 3% and compression is dead nuts. Even better than that, my whole setup, engine swap, turbo, tune and all was under 3k...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's what my other $6000 could be doing. Remember?

hey moron your 6 grand also has to go to other things that i listed gaskets, boltons, and unforseen things fucktard

Every other h2b'er seems to be fine, I've yet to meet one h2b'er that had a complaint.

ricer statement, FRM sleeves cannot be turbocharged you fucktard, they crack rather quickly, so everyother h2b'r isnt turbo ive seen 1 h swapped car that was turbo on thiss ite so taking it out of context to try to make it seem that i said na h22's suck doesnt work

You're retarted, not even that much is banged away, takes like 3 minutes with a big ball peen. I've helped two guys at TSP shop with their h2b setups.

listen here genuis since youve never seen a civic shell before, the 2 frame rails are he strongest part of your car so intetionally weakening it is not a smart idea


Do some research before you talk smack, evo kits are from $800-1200

a lot of h2b'ers are very content and prefer the qsd kit.

Sure, why not, h2b in stock form is a tire spinning monster.

EK's don't require all of that, shift linkages are cheap. Ecu, mounts, axles come with the longblock from hmotors.

shiftlinkages ar cheap but its still a cost which is what im trying to get at, youve never seen the whole cost i have (on a k swap) so there is no argument you lack crediablity, all the ricers on here seem to love you for your knowledge of a swap youve never seen before, experienced you just benched raced it into your car and you brag about knowing alot about it, admit youve never done it before and you dont know **** abput it and im done here

You're retarded and 8/10 k-swap owners will disagree with your price list.

i was making fun of you moron,


You clearly don't know anything about building good credit, liability, or my personal life. I have a good job, and HAVE the money to start my build, i'd just rather take an interest free loan out to build my credit.

you make less than 25k a year, jack in the box doesnt count as a good job, well maybe in atlanta where your from all those hicks and hurricane victums without homes

The first DSM turbo build I put together made 330 whp on a stock ls motor. Andy still uses the piping I welded together for him. The turbo parts etc cost us altogether about $1200, then the tune was ~$300 at KT performance in Mesa.


yea what turbo did you use, method of welding, manifold, tuning? parts, for someone who couldnt name parts to a turbo kit a few years ago you seem to be a turbo kit genius idiot just becuase you read it on honda tech doesnt mean youve done it


before you baffle anyone with your lack of intelligence and ignorant k-series fanboy'ism, get your facts straight and find better points than my personal life.


well seeing that i do have a k series and you dont have ****, who is the fanboy?

you obssesing over an engine you dont own on a swap youve never done, you read about it, you asked bense about it, you asked him questions and you repat his anwers to everybody else, youve never done the swap, bense and the people who sell the swap are the only creadible people on the h2b side of the argument, flat out it wont smoke a k24 turbo, i dont know what you're trying to get at by showing me a stock k20a2 dyno maybe its because you thing they are simmilar which they are not
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Anyone who's been a member for more than a month and has more than 100 posts seems to believe I have credibility, learn your place kid.

2.5 years/8300 posts &gt; ~1 week/75 posts.

I've been around.

The only people that really argue with my opinions are newbies like you who are k-series fan boys straight out of honda-magazine school.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm... my stock sleeves did 366whp for 2 full years of straight molestation without a problem quite usable in my opinion... The engine's leak-down values are still under 3% and compression is dead nuts. Even better than that, my whole setup, engine swap, turbo, tune and all was under 3k...</TD></TR></TABLE>



Toyota guys get away with frm sleeves all the time.

 

we have to set a few things straight... First of all, FRM sleeves are actually in nearly every way better than iron sleeves, only they can't use forged pistons (except gold series). Stock for stock, they are every bit as strong as any other series sleeve, only they transfer heat much better, and they have much less friction. If FRM was so awful would they use it in NSX and s2000? They do buddy, but it doesn't stop there, many high end sports cars from other manufacturers use frm as well, and don't quote me on this, but I do remember reading that Honda's F1 motors are also FRM. Now lets address what you may have confused for fact in your short time reading here... Years ago when freeware\affordable tuning software was not yet a factor, many people instead of spending 1000's on hondata or aem, would use fmu, vafc, and other **** forms of voodoo\witchcraft styles of fuel management. In many cases the h22's would blow ringlands, not crack sleeves! This lead many to believe that h22's just were no good for boost, but this had more to do with improper tuning, larger displacement, and higher compression than any "weak" components. To say that you can't tune your car to a usable degree with a stock h22 is so freaking 5 years ago... wake up! Now your swap... whoopie you have a trans, a block, and a turbo. First of all what kind of moron puts any $100 turbo on a k series? second, I am a little shifty on your prices for the motor and trans... But you get the benefit of the doubt. You forgot mounts, shifter, axles, and much more (forgive me, i am not researching the whole k swap to argue with you, but I do know for a fact that what you have laying on your garage floor is not going to jump into your car, grow mounts, bolt itself in, and start breathing through it's $100 turbo!) If that were the case, I know where you can get a 2jzgte for 2500. I sincerely hope this was just as informative as it was insulting.

 

That and the only tuning program he can get is $1000, not to mention the tuner.

All I've ever said is that the h2b is a good alternative to the k-series swap. Never that it's faster. In fact it's a much more viable option for a number of reasons, both have their advantages and disadvantages.

if the k-swap was the answer to every honda performance need, then why is the fastest canadian honda a b18?

And the fastest n/a honda is a sohc f-series, NOT a k20.

ps: (canucks are known for being some of the best honda tuners in the business)

 

k24 you only have arguments for the k20 goodamn my car is a built k24 go google the diffrnece, i wrote that article on frm sleeves, nice quting me i wrote it last night

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k powered ej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k24 you only have arguments for the k20 goodamn my car is a built k24 go google the diffrnece, i wrote that article on frm sleeves, nice quting me i wrote it last night </TD></TR></TABLE>

k24/k20, it's all k-series.

pics of said car and whether or not it's running?