My 91 hatch with i/h/e mount inserts and suspension and a d15z6 with vtec controller is slow.

I got beat by a 96 4 door vtec-e and a bone stock crx si with 15s

My car is in time I am using a crx si dizzy and ecu.

Anybody have any ideas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef-hatchcrap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 91 hatch with i/h/e mount inserts and suspension and a d15z6 with vtec controller is slow.

I got beat by a 96 4 door vtec-e and a bone stock crx si with 15s

My car is in time I am using a crx si dizzy and ecu.

Anybody have any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Oh my my my.......roflmao.....sorry man, I dont know what to tell you other than you have the ECU wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know this but I have had the same swap before and it was fatser than it is now.

I just want some f*cking input on what I should try evrything is brand new

I also have this problem where nomatter how long I drive my car for I cant rev past 6800 like the ecu wont switch over from being cold.

I have had a chipped pm6 with added vtec and it made my car run worse.


Oh my my my.......roflmao.....sorry man, I dont know what to tell you other than you have the ECU wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Like I said. Get the right ECU, distributer,....wire for OBD1 and go from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like I said. Get the right ECU, distributer,....wire for OBD1 and go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep youre not going to get any where running that ECU... you cant rev past 6800 because thats the rev limiter on your CRX Si ECU.

Seriously go to a junk yard and pull the right ecu and dizzy... it will be like 30-150 dollars depending on how the yard prices it. Im sure there will be tons of civics with that motor no matter where you go.

Honestly your car is going to keep on being slow until you get it running properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bobjohnson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep youre not going to get any where running that ECU... you cant rev past 6800 because thats the rev limiter on your CRX Si ECU.

Seriously go to a junk yard and pull the right ecu and dizzy... it will be like 30-150 dollars depending on how the yard prices it. Im sure there will be tons of civics with that motor no matter where you go.

Honestly your car is going to keep on being slow until you get it running properly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The rev limiter is actually 7200 thats the warm rev limiter and 6800 is the cold revlimiter.

 

rofl...... lost to a vtec-e sedan

get a new ecu asap!

 

if he wants to be stubborn with his ghetto-rigged setup. let him.


but, i will agree with the above suggestions.

i also suggest converting over to obd-1. also, you didnt mention what transmission you had. a cable si trans might help out if you dont already have one.

adding some more performance parts such as a cam and cam gear with a tune will help wake the puppy up too.


how does it run besides being slow? even a new fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor would help make the car feel more like it should.


there are plenty of reasons why even the best engines are acting sluggish. how many miles are on your engine, and the maintenance go a long way.

 

Get a supercharger.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if he wants to be stubborn with his ghetto-rigged setup. let him.


but, i will agree with the above suggestions.

i also suggest converting over to obd-1. also, you didnt mention what transmission you had. a cable si trans might help out if you dont already have one.

adding some more performance parts such as a cam and cam gear with a tune will help wake the puppy up too.


how does it run besides being slow? even a new fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor would help make the car feel more like it should.


there are plenty of reasons why even the best engines are acting sluggish. how many miles are on your engine, and the maintenance go a long way. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not that I am being stubborn its just the money issue and if the damn junkyards around here wernt so overpicked I would try to go obd-1

As far as tune up I have brand new dizzy,plugs,wires,t-belt,water pump,fuel filter and I cable si tranny with a new clutch. There is 100,000 miles on the motor. The compression is 145-150 across the board

The car runs great gets good gas miledge its just slow.

I am working on a deal trading my 06 susuki ltz400 for a b-sereis swap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef-hatchcrap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The compression is 145-150 across the board

</TD></TR></TABLE>
isnt that kinda low?.... my freinds d16a6 with a y7 head is 165-170 across.....

 

Im really not sure what its supposed to be but I figured that its not that bad.

You also have a vtec-e cylinder head on a a6 block I would think that changes the compression seeings how its an obd-2 head

 

y7 isnt a Vtec-e but yes the y7 head will yeild a higher comp, do to a smaller combustion chamber. I belive all the y d series have smaller combustion chambers.

Also just as a note if you have a z6 head on a d15 block you need a cam gear to set the cam timing right, i i belive the cam will be 15degrees retarded without one. So while the ignition timing is right the cam timing can still be off. If you dont have the resources availible to convert to obd-1 i would look into a cam gear for the engine. there only like 100bucks plus shipping.

If your interested in a obd-1 ecu i can check around and see if i still have a p28 laying around i think i have close to 10 ecu's just chillin in my closet lol.

 

Its a actuall d16z6 motor its not a minie-me

I haveno clue on why its so slow I just want some good input on what else to try I am out of ideas.

Someone was telling me about a washer trick to get the right timing on the dizzy.
But washers holding the dizzy just doesnt seem safe. anybody heard of this trick before?

 

Ok well then 2 more things

1 whats youre Vtec Crossover point set at? I belive mine is set at 4200 i dont even notice it when it comes on

2 one big problem is fuel, i know with my mini-me, i had to add extra fuel the stock pm6 ecu had me running lean, in the high revs at WOT. And mine is only a 1.5l. This may all just boil down to you not having any sort of engine management. i dont recommend a VAFC because you can have your current ecu chipped for less than the price of one. If it was me i would look into having the ecu chipped. Plus in the future it will help if you go turbo. And ive heard a VAFC is only good up to 10lbs which is fine if your gonna run a stock block.

So basically, while most of the people on here would rather convert to obd-1, Its alot cheaper to stay obd-0 and just do it right. Everything for the pm6 ecu is cheap, you get to run 1 one wire 02 sensor, no knock sensor etc.. Me personally i plan on staying
obd-0 as long as possible. If nothing else its another option for the time being.

Thats really the best answer i can give you, if its not the crossover point being wrong,
Then the only thing left is tunning.

 

As far as washers go, i didnt use that method, i just altered the top bracket on the dizzy, and its the only bolt holding it in, Doing that with a brand new o-ring i havent had a leak yet, or had the timing move.

 

I have my vtec set 5200rpms I havent tried to set it there because I didnt think there would be enough oil pressure.

And my car does ping across all rpms wich would mean its not getting enough fuel.
Can you chip the ecu so you can change the fuel maps when vvtec crosses over.

I only have one bolt on the top too I have dremald the top hole but maybe I need to do it more

thanks for all your input going to expierment tomorrow maybe I need to get a fpr and adjust it

 

forget a supercharger, if u want real power, buy a cheap turbo visit hmt.com and boost that turd. then you will break loose in 1st and 2nd and there will be no complaints.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fin781 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">forget a supercharger, if u want real power, buy a cheap turbo visit hmt.com and boost that turd. then you will break loose in 1st and 2nd and there will be no complaints. </TD></TR></TABLE>



There should be plenty of oil pressure try setting it at 4600 see if that helps remember you shouldn't be able to notice when it activates.

Also as far as pinging goes, that could be spark or fuel. I know alot of guys have to pretty much widen that top hole so far foward on the dizzy till its gone or dam near close to it. I personally didnt take mine that far, because i didn't wanna weaken the mounting bracket. I fpr would defenatly be a good investment, but you shouldnt have to take the fuel pressure past 45lbs, besides you dont want to run high fuel pressure since it will make the pump wear out quicker.

As far as the ECU goes you can change the fuel maps for any rpm range. You can also have the factory ecu activate vtec. Ive never bought anything from this place but there prices are good, and i havent heard anything bad, i plan on getting one of my ecu's chipped thru them http://www.xenocron.com/ And the best thing about it, is you can edit the maps yourself, the program is free. you get 2 chip so you can have them burn you 2 basemaps and install one and tweak the other. If your gonna tune yourself tho, Invest in a wideband O2. Then Later on down the road when you boost that bitch your all setup for it.

 

Hm. How much of a difference would a cam + cam gear make on pretty much stock d16?

One thing I really don't know much about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xfletcherxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hm. How much of a difference would a cam + cam gear make on pretty much stock d16?

One thing I really don't know much about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

From what i understand if they are tuned right they can really wake them up so to speak. keep in mind its not a B-series, but for a 1.6 sohc, they can get pretty peppy, Ive seen some pretty bad *** D's out there and the best part is parts are everywhere for them. Hell i have 2 spare blocks, one i got for free and the other i payed 50 bucks for the whole car lol (94 civic 4door) . I hear you get more gains on a non vtec, I might find out shorty as i just recenty got another Ef for free that has a D in it.

But Turbo is the way to go, Hell On HMT they have a Dpfi boosted civic lol anything can be made fast, you just gotta think different and kinda walk away from the rest of the sheep

 

Very good info thanks alot I had tryed the chipped pm6 for vtec and run the relay for vtec but that is how the guy that chipped my ecu said is going to be.

I didnt like it so I got a stock pm6 and got a vafc2 and ran that.

Im going to dremal my dizzy some more in the morning and see what that does.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by garageEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
isnt that kinda low?.... my freinds d16a6 with a y7 head is 165-170 across.....</TD></TR></TABLE>


you are looking for consistent numbers, not high or low. there are so many brands of compression testers out there. and a lot of people dont use them correctly.

but, as long as the numbers are all pretty close and consistent, then the motor is fine.


BTW, my friend has a rocket powered viper. WTF does a different motor setups compression have to do with this one?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fin781 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">forget a supercharger, if u want real power, buy a cheap turbo visit hmt.com and boost that turd. then you will break loose in 1st and 2nd and there will be no complaints. </TD></TR></TABLE>


can do the same with a blower. i would spin redline til 3rd if i wanted to with my old setup.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ef-hatchcrap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its not that I am being stubborn its just the money issue and if the damn junkyards around here wernt so overpicked I would try to go obd-1

As far as tune up I have brand new dizzy,plugs,wires,t-belt,water pump,fuel filter and I cable si tranny with a new clutch. There is 100,000 miles on the motor. The compression is 145-150 across the board

The car runs great gets good gas miledge its just slow.

I am working on a deal trading my 06 susuki ltz400 for a b-sereis swap</TD></TR></TABLE>


well, converting to obd-1 may or may not help you. sohcs are pretty slow when stock.

yeah.... a b series would help if you were willing to trade your friend for that suzuki.

 

they are all hondas..they are all slow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice a roni &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are all hondas..they are all slow</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahaha..unless you are running 10's or lower........