Just looking for suggestions, 97' sh with a cat-back exhaust. My atts doesn't work and I don't plan on fixing it, so I'm definetly would be getting it tuned with hondata or something comparable. Is 220whp an achievable goal in this price range? thanks again for suggestions.

 

If you do all the work yourself this goal might be achievable with $4000. You are going to have to do some serious internal work to get 220whp NA. You are going to need new valve train, some serious cams, port and polish, bigger throttle body, a very well designed header etc... and maybe even some higher compression pistons. Getting 220whp NA is no small task. What type of racing are you looking to do or is this going to be a DD? Are you totally opposed to a nitrous system?

 

my suggestion . . . save yourself a lot of work and time . . and just get the euro-r jdm h22a . . . best stock h22a out there . . . just go to jhpusa.com

 

4 k could easy get you 220 whp. Start with the head this is where the power it made a full val job runs you 1100 to 1500 deoending where you take it make sure the guys uses cmc machine. need some cams skunk2 pro series stage 2 550 for those. camp 1320 header is more than fine for a 220 whp look at the threads. bottom end type s pistons with eagle rods and a 2 layer oem headgasket nets you a 11.62 compression. a bigger tb and hondata you should see 220 whp plus.

 

i am doing this build my self buy the part as i go i am also getting the pistons coated so it can handle more heat also thinking about getting all the internal cryo treated so they can take more abuse and not die. other thing i will be running pump gas but also setting up meth spray to boost the octane and lower the engine temp for more aggresive tuning.

 

I recommend going with the hondata s300

 

I was thinking full skunk2 valve train, skunk2 stage 2 cams, intake manifold and throttle body, and a nice header. anyone know of some good shops to take my car to for install and tune in the seattle portland area? thanks

 

here is what i did to get 220 whp out of my h22, and it only cost about $2k

euro-r intake manifold
Hytech exhaust manifold
type s cams w/ stock valvetrain
hondata s200

thats it, 219whp/164wtq, w/o going into the motor. it doesnt take much if you know what your doing

you just have to spend your $$ in the right areas, dont waste it on aftermarket throttlebody's and other usless parts use a good cold air intake like aem and a good flowing exhaust w/o the cat. you may also need to bump compression a little since you have a usdm, you can do this by milling your head or by using 1 outer layer of the oem headgasket. however if you plan on a rebuild later to make even more power you may just want to skip bumping up compression for now and save yourself some time and $$. you will still come close to your goal




Modified by Missing Gears at 4:10 PM 7/26/2007

 

btw, the skunk stg.2's will give you more peak hp, but you will lose alot of midrange tq. this would be a bad idea if its your daily driver because you will notice the tq loss when you are driving at lower rpm's (out of vtec).

 

So even if I didn't bump the compression I'd still get around my goal right with my other mods listed, minus the throttle body. thanks for the advice.

 

Skunk2 Pro1 cams and valvetrain
Type S pistons
Hondata s300 or Neptune
kaizenspeed balance shaft delete
SixSigmaRacing header

 

here is a thread of a buddy of mine w/ a usdm prelude that ended up making close to 200whp w/ basically the same setup i recommended but he didnt have a great header. add a custom header to that and you should be around 210-215whp.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1833988

i wouldnt spent alot more $$ and time going into the bottom end right now just to gain a small amount of compression. later you will learn that if your gonna do a complete build, the right way to do it is to also gain displacement along w/ sleeving the block among other things. my advice would be to wait until your ready to make alot more power before going into the block so that you dont waste your time and money now.

 

when you decide to rebuild the bottom end, do it right the first time and really make some power so it will actually feel like a different motor

like this: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1194628

this was basically a 95mm stroke (h23 crank), 89mm bore, and 12:1 compression. increasing the bore and stroke is what made all the power. i only installed the valvetrain because i knew i was going to upgrade the cams later. and when i got rid of the 70mm tb (due to it wearing out) i didnt lose any power.

when building a bottom end its important to make significant changes otherwise you are throwing away your $$ because you wont notice a significant difference in the way the car feels.

 

Eventually after I get my head done I would like to build the bottom end the right way. So I'm going to stay out of there for the time being. With the skunk2 stage 2 cams once vtec hits it should be noticably faster, right? thanks again for all the input it has been very helpful.

 

the thing thats gonna kill u is the labor for getting the block done (if u cant do it urself). id get some type s pistons and new rings if it wasnt so much money for the labor (parts are under 400). how much is ur avg piston job?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slickshifter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Eventually after I get my head done I would like to build the bottom end the right way. So I'm going to stay out of there for the time being. With the skunk2 stage 2 cams once vtec hits it should be noticably faster, right? thanks again for all the input it has been very helpful.</TD></TR></TABLE>

with those cams you will gain power at higher rpms (roughly 6500 rpm and up). you will feel a diference when vtec croses over, but its only because of the tq loss before vtec. so basicaly it will feel like a big jump into vtec, but its only because your gaining the power back so quickly that you lost in the first place.

i would only recomend those cams for a race application as they dont serve very much purpose in a street application. you may also want to call skunk first because those cams are pretty aggresive and i have had problems in the past w/ valve contact w/ the reliefs in the oem pistons. of course they dont advertise that, but when i called them they told me that those cams are really meant for aftermarket pistons. this is something to be careful of because if you rev to high or overrev the motor you WILL bend your valves as i have done in the past w/ that setup and you dont have to overev very much at all.

the type s cams really are the best for practical street applications. you wont lose any midrange tq and you will still make good hp up top. plus you can run your stock valvetrain for now and that means you dont have to pull the head offf the motor. hope this helps. if you do decide on the skunk cams i would go to the dyno first and get a basline run so you will have something to compare later. you will see all the power you lose w/ those cams. they only add power way up top and by then your power band is playing catch up. believe it or not you will run the same time at the track on either cam because of this.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snzh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the thing thats gonna kill u is the labor for getting the block done (if u cant do it urself). id get some type s pistons and new rings if it wasnt so much money for the labor (parts are under 400). how much is ur avg piston job?</TD></TR></TABLE>

why get type s pistons? you wont notice a diference in power whatsoever, have you ever run type s pistons???

 

So if I get the skunk2 stage 1 cams are they comparable to the type-s. Would valvetrain upgrade even be necessary? If I did upgrade the valvetrain could I rev higher safely? I think I'm going to go hytech header as well.

 

the skunk stg 1's didnt make any power for me. believe me, you dont need aftermarket cams to make power w/ an h series. the type s cams are the way to go for a street/strip build. and you will still be able to use them later as well.

the skunk stg 1's = not quite as much midrange loss as the stg 2's and not as much peak power up top. either way you will run the same w/ either cam. it sounds odd, but believe me i have tried them all plus several others.

for any street build i ever do in the future i would use the type s cams. and for any race only build i do in the future i will use skunk simply because they make power farther up in the rpm's which is where you are on the track. at the track you never fall belowe vtec so you dont have to worry about power loss down there. on the street you dont drive around at 8k all day so the skunks wont help you.

 

So with the type-s cams would a valvetrain upgrade or cam gears help or is that a waste of time and money? Ballpark on install and tune for type-s cams, intake manifold, cai, header, hondata s300. thanks for steering me in the right direction.

 

you dont need the cam gears or the valvetrain.

balpark cost=$2500 parts+tunning, labor will depend on who does the work. the euro-r will require some mods to get it working properly so that will be an added expense. you can probably search and find some pictures to give you a better idea of everything.

 

So between skunk2 intake manifold, and euro-r which is better? Is skunk2 easier to install?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slickshifter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So with the type-s cams would a valvetrain upgrade or cam gears help or is that a waste of time and money? </TD></TR></TABLE>

ive been told (and proven to me in front of my face) that adj cam gears dont give u any gains. it only allows u to shift ur power band a couple 100 rpm to the left or right on the graph

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Missing Gears &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why get type s pistons? you wont notice a diference in power whatsoever, have you ever run type s pistons??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i wont? even if i have cams? maybe not others...but i might because im blowin out blue smoke when i left off the gas (piston rings?!?!)...i would change the pistons and rings together, obviously. in that case i may get some restored hp. also i heard every .1 comp = 1 whp. im assuming u dont agree with that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snzh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i wont? even if i have cams? maybe not others...but i might because im blowin out blue smoke when i left off the gas (piston rings?!?!)...i would change the pistons and rings together, obviously. in that case i may get some restored hp. also i heard every .1 comp = 1 whp. im assuming u dont agree with that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if your doing a rebuild to repair your worn out motor, on the s pistons.
if your doing a rebuild to make power, on the s pistons.

the compression gain will not be noticable while driving the car, what you will notice is the refreshed power from having a new bottom end that seals up and doesnt burn oil anymore

 

The place I'm taking my car also does headwork. Is this worth doing or not? thanks

disassemble/ clean/ inspection
port & polish
multi-angle valve job
deshroud valve area in chamber
polish chambers
surface or mill to customer spec
assembly