H22a4
AEM CAI
70mm BDL Throttle Body (to be installed)
Euro-R IM (to be installed)
Hondata IM Gasket
Type S cams (to be installed)
Skunk2 Adj. Cam Gears (to be installed)
Type One Racing Header (2.36'' collector)
Test Pipe (2.25'')
Thermal Exhaust (2.25'')
Hondata S200 riding on a P28 Ecu.
I'm trying to hit 200whp or at least mid 190's. Peak power isn't my main priority. I want to increase my midrange power to help me with drag racing. Would adj cam gears be a step in the right direction?


Modified by precisionelite at 3:03 PM 12/23/2006


Modified by precisionelite at 3:05 PM 12/23/2006

 

For the same or just a little more, aftermarket cams will net you much better gains. Look into Skunk2 and Crower cams. Portmatch the intake mani to the tbody. How much is that header? Look into an RMF, as it is proven to give very solid gains in the mid-range.

 

Yes cam gears will be needed if you want to tune those cams right. The EuroR manifold will provide better high-end power than the stock, but the stock, in theory, should provide better midrange power due to the longer runners and the ITB setup. That's just a guess though, you never really know until you tune it. I would put that EuroR manifold on though, it will definately gain you power with those cams.

 

mfactory 4.64 or circuitworx 4.71 FD FTW

 

This is probably the best bang/buck mod out there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by championshipwhite93si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mfactory 4.64 or circuitworx 4.71 FD FTW</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I plan to portmatch the TB to the euro-r. I want to stick w/these cams because it seems they work the best w/stock compression. The euro-r will definatly give me more midrange than my current IM, the junk2! I got the header on a group buy for around 600. Here's the description from A&J racing's site:

T1R Response Header is designed for all around rpm performance and has been specifically developed for daily driven cars and mildly tuned engines. The Response Header features a 4-2-1 design for optimal mid-range power while still providing significant high rpm gains. In addition, the primary collectors are port matched to the cylinder head's exhaust ports to maximize smooth exhaust flow. Consequently, the T1R header offers improved engine response and a dyno proven 10+hp to the wheels. T1R headers are hand made from 100% SUS304 aircraft grade stainless steel and feature TIG welded construction. Due to the 4-2-1 design, the Response Header has no ground clearance issues. A 2.5" collector is included with the header.
Price: CAD $950.00 (USD $848.25)"
My header is 2.36'' though, i think it's just a general description of their headers.

 

Oh, yes it will, I didn't realize you were using a Skunk2.

 

Yea, i'm trying to hit a 13.9 in my bb6. I have slicks and even when i launched off the limiter the rpm's were to low for the Skunk2 to make real power. My best 60 was a 1.950, so i have a ways to go as far as practice is concerned. My goal is a 1.8 60'. I'm thinking with more power in my midrange my car won't feel like it's traveling uphill after my rpm's drop after launch.

 

That sounds like a good 60ft as far as I'm concerned! And you did that with basically a stock engine?

 

I had my tein SS set at 12/16 which definatly helped. And i gutted out my rear. :-)

 

I'd consider fitting some pistons as well, like the Type-S ones, as the higher compression will complement your cams .

 

Last time I dynoed at 188whp. What do you all think i'll see now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by championshipwhite93si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mfactory 4.64 or circuitworx 4.71 FD FTW</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you are cruising at 65 or 70 where will the rpm's be?

 

The seller didn't have any 68-66 mm in this shipement. So I decided to step up to the 70mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

When you are cruising at 65 or 70 where will the rpm's be?</TD></TR></TABLE>

With a 4.71 and an m2f4 trans (.871 5th gear, shorter than all other h 5ths) i'm at about 4300-4400 at 70mph, 4600-4700 at 80mph.

Euro-r cams don't necessarily work "best" with stock compression. They're made to work with stock compression, though that doesn't mean that they make more power than other cams that are made to work with higher static CRs.....take crower3 cams for example, they work very well on stock internal h22s, look at skunked's dyno, and you will be able to see them on mine soon

Good luck with the build, and keep what Vin said in consideration, the final drive really is the best bang for the buck.

My car in its semi-untuned state only makes about 3hp peak and a few lbs of midrange tq more than my brother's 500lb lighter h22 hatchback, yet we're dead even because of my final drive.

 

T1R ftw

 

I've heard aftermarket final drives break under the stress of drag racing, is this true?
I will be running slicks,btw.

 

if you're going to drag, get a circuitworx FD. They had to redesign theirs to be tolerable for drag. it costs a little more than the others but it's well worth it.

 

There are people running around with much more power than you on slicks and doing just ok

These final drives are BEEFY, don't worry.

 

I went ahead and got the Skunk2 cam gears, and stepped up from the 68 to a 70mm TB. I think this will be a very good setup. I'm looking for a very balanced and linear powerband. Opinions?

 

Engine
H22a4 with 63k.
Bpi Velocity Stack(w/recommended K&N RF-1048 Filter)
AEM 3'' CAI
70mm BDL Throttle Body (portmached to manifold)
Euro-R IM
RC 440cc saturated injectors
Hondata IM Gasket
H22a Head (H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion)
Type S cams
Skunk2 Valvesprings and Titanium Retainers.
Skunk2 Adj. Cam Gears
Type One Racing Header (2.36'' collector) with a slightly dented bottom (hytech this summer)
Test Pipe (2.25'')
Thermal Exhaust (2.25'')
Hondata S200 riding on a P28 Ecu.
Tranny
M2Y4
Exedy Stage 2 Clutch
Wheels and Tires
Stock
Maintenance
New timing belt, water pump, fuel filter, and a fresh set of spark plugs for the dyno. Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs replaced 30k miles ago.

DynoJet 248
Runs were done in 3rd gear.


Modified by precisionelite at 1:27 PM 3/1/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


My car in its semi-untuned state only makes about 3hp peak and a few lbs of midrange tq more than my brother's 500lb lighter h22 hatchback, yet we're dead even because of my final drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow. Didn't know that a final drive would make so much difference... Im looking at Mfactory.

 

Type S cams are hardly what you call 'high lift' or anywhere near aggressive. I think they are the same cams as in the following...

H22A8 (197bhp) EU
H22A7 (212bhp/217bhp) EU
H22A4 (197bhp) SH '00 onwards US

The only reason the H22A Type S motor is 217bhp and not 197bhp like the H22A8 is down to the ECU. The mechanics of the motor is exactly the same as the H22A8. Not down to having 'wilder' cams as most people think. Also the 11:1CR is the same on all those motors except the H22A4 (10:1).

As for the H22A4. If they had the same upgrade as the EU, then they will give no extra lift over the '2000-'01 H22A4 SH model (197bhp) camshafts. You will need to upgrade the other areas, not the cams, as will be no different.

Can someone please check part numbers and see if they are the same.

14111-P5P-J00


Modified by UKMotegi at 4:39 PM 1/9/2007

 

the h22a4 engine for 00-01 does not have type-s cams.
but i do agree that they arent the "best" cams for n/a set ups.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UKMotegi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Type S cams are hardly what you call 'high lift' or anywhere near aggressive. They are the same cams as in the following.

H22A8 (197bhp)
H22A7 (212bhp/217bhp)
H22A4 (197bhp) SH '00 onwards

The only reason the H22A Type S motor is 217bhp and not 197bhp like the H22A8 is down to the ECU. The mechanics of the motor is exactly the same as the H22A8. Not down to having 'wilder' cams as most people think. Also the 11:1CR is the same on all those motors except the H22A4 (10:1).

As for the H22A4. They will give no extra lift over the '2000-'01 H22A4 SH model (197bhp) camshafts. You need to upgrade the other areas, not the cams, as they are no different.

I dont know where this myth came from that Type S cams are better than your stock ones. Check part numbers if you don't believe me. they are the same.

14111-P5P-J00</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the difference between the Euro-R/ATR and Type-S engine is the header and the IM. Euro-R/ATR have a single IM and Type-S has dual stage.