(My car is a '95GSR) I was in an accident and my car has been fixed already but the body shop took my car to the dealer and had my ABS system inspected because the ABS light was on. This is exactly what it says on the dealer's estimate.. "ABS modulator/accumulator has internal leak, causing pressure loss in both brake systems, need to replace ABS modulator/accumulator assy."

I've been hassling my insurance company (AAA) for 2 weeks and its no use... they said they will not cover those repairs because the accident didn't cause this.

Anyway the repair costs for this is $1653 !! There's no way I can afford that right now. And its really dangerous driving my car because I have to pump the brakes 3 or 4 times just to build up pressure every time I need to stop

A friend of mine was telling me that I should just disconnect the ABS and drive without ABS (His knowledge is not that great so I don't really trust him on certain things). Is this possible, and would it help at all. I don't care if my brakes would lock up, I'd rather that they lock up if I have to brake hard than having to pump them and not be able to stop. Has anybody ever had this same problem with their car??!! Any help is appreciated.

David

 

1) have you checked the brake fluid level?
2) when you turn on your car, does the ABS system pressurize normally (that 2-3 second zzzzzzzzzz sound)? Also, does that sound repeat later on, while your car is still on?

Rainmaker

 

my ABS light is on, I suspect of the same thing (i've been too lazy to run the codes) and my car brakes fine other than locking up if i jam on them real hard (I have oversize fastbrakes, not stock brakes) and i dont need to build pressure....you could try getting a used unit from someone parting their car or something......

 

i too had that same wonderful problem. acura diagnosed the problem correctly.
i ended up getting a used one for 200 bucks, then it was about another 200 to have it put in.

you can unplug the fuse for the abs, driving without abs in the summer is fine, its just when its slick or snowy out when it can be dangerous.

post a wtb thing in the classfieds forum, some itr guy was selling that and alot of other abs compenents for 400 shipped or so. you can find used ones in the 200 range in good condition.

you also can have a mechanic bleed the system, and it will work temporary for another 3-5 weeks. but not a real fix.

give me an IM if you have any questions

 

so that's what the ZZZZ sound is when you start the car!

I'm about to remove the ABS from my car once I figure out how (drag car, not street anymore). If someone can clue me in I'll take out mine and sell it gladly. Please check compatibility though... My car is a 96 SE/LS.

-Erik

 

My brake fluid level is fine. When I turn on my car that zzzzzzzzzz sound lasts a lot longer than it used to, before it would only last about 2-4 seconds.... but now since my ABS light came on the zzzzzzz sound lasts for about 1minute.

So if I disconnect the ABS fuse will this help at all??

David


[Modified by Oki_Doki, 11:17 AM 6/11/2002]

 

Whats the number for the ABS fuse??

Hmm... I might look into getting a used one off of another Integra. Does anyone know if OBD2 Integra ABS systems are compatible and would work on my OBD1'95GSR?? Is there any difference in the ABS units between trim levels (RS, LS, SE, GSR, or TypeR) would I be able to use either of those or would it have to be from another GSR?? thanks

David

 

I had this go bad on my 2000 Type_R just before I sold it but it was all fixed under warranty. I don't see how they can refuse the repairs.

FYI, Type-R ABS pump is different. DO some homework as to what will work and what won't. Not saying Typ-R pump won't work, just know it is different.

 

I know the pump changed in 98 and for the ITR, i think the rest are the same though... I think

 

never seen a 97 R pump but the R pump even in 97 was billed as different and lighter than the other integras.

 

I just recently picked one up at the junk yard for $60.00, the pump on ABS Modulator was leaking, it kept on trying to pressurize while driving. The ABS Modulator for 94-97 integras are the same and the 98-up uses the smaller ones.

 

The "buzzing" sound you hear when you first start your car is the ABS system pressurizing. This only pertains to '94-'97 Integras, because they have a different ABS system from the '98-'01 Integras and '97 Type-Rs. The '94-'97 Integra's ABS system has a seperate brake fluid reservior (#3 in diagram). The ABS brake fluid should be bleed and flushed periodically to remove air from the system. If you hear the buzzing for more than a couple of seconds (~2-5 sec.), this is a good indication that the ABS system needs to be bleed. Now if you hear the buzzing for ~60 seconds and then it shuts off and the ABS light comes on, it means that the ABS system could not be pressurized and the ABS has been disabled. The main cause is a small rubber O-ring (#23) which seals the brake fluid ACCUMULATOR (#2) which is under extremely high pressure. If this O-ring fails brake fluid will leak out and you will see it under the ABS module.

Here is a diagram of the '94-'97 Integra ABS module:




This reason that I know about this is because the O-ring on my '94 GS-R failed after about 1 year and it was replaced under warranty. My wifes '96 Honda Odyssey also has the same ABS system and it's ABS light came on and I recently replaced the failed O-ring (which cost me ~$1.50 at my local Honda dealership).

 

Did you replace the O-ring yourself or did someone else do it?? If you did it yourself, how hard was it to do and what special tools did you need??
thanks

David

 

I did replace the O-ring myself. I did purchase a set of flare end wrenches (at Sears for $22) to disconnect the 6 brake lines which connect to the ABS modulator. The ABS unit needs to be removed from the car to replace the O-ring since the bolts which attach to the accumulator are on the bottom of the ABS unit. The O-ring is very easy to replace. After I replaced the O-ring, I just reinstalled the ABS unit in the car and hooked up the brake lines, the electrical connectors and filled the ABS brake reservior with brake fluid. I did have to purge the ABS system of air and bleed the brake lines since the brake lines had been disconnected. The ABS system has worked fine ever since.

HTH. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Thanks for the help ... I'll ask again if I have any more questions.

David

 

I'll sell you my ABS Unit for CHEAP if you want it? It came off my 95 gsr hit me up on IM if you want it, if you located in SoCal I'll deliver.........

 

yeah...meeh too, I hope this solves my problem...

 

sorry I'm trying to save time what size flare wrench(s) do I need?

 

I have the complete ABS system from my '00 ITR: ABS modulator(w/ brackets), all brake lines, prop. valve, master cylinder all for sale. $450 (plus shipping) & it's yours! Let me know here or email me at: gregmendez@swfla.rr.com

 

10mm

 

cool thanks..I just picked up the o ring from the dealer

 

i just ran the "codes" on my ABS light.....after the initial 2 second pause it blinked once....then waited 5 seconds and blinked a second time. so in total it was two blinks spaced out can anyone tell me what that code is? my friend has my helms right now

 

ttt

 

If I read my helms correctly you get fat pulses for the most sig digit and skinny pulses for the least sig digit. 1 big pulse and 1 small one = 1 1.

MSD
1 wheel sensor (even LSD noise/intermittent, odd LSD open/short to gnd/pwr)
sounds like what you got: continuity probs with a wheel sensor
2 pulser
3 solenoid
4 wheel lock
5 motor
6 ignition volt
7 dia of tire
8 CPU

Good luck,

-allen


[Modified by alu95, 8:13 AM 6/15/2002]

 

Is it hard to bleed the ABS unit, or is it the same a bleeding non-ABS brakes? Gotta do a brake flush on my 92 GS-R. The fuild is old and ugly, and the ABS is acting up something fierce.


[Modified by b17gsr, 11:35 PM 6/17/2002]