Burning Too Much, Hance Reuild. Please Advise.
My B18C5 on one of my 1997 ITR's is burning quite a bit of oil so I am gonna bite the bullet and do a rebuild. I do not plan on going on crazy with the rebuild. If my cylinder walls just need re-honing, I plan on slapping in JDM ITR pistons with new rings, new seals and gaskets which include valve seals, main & rod bearings, OEM headgasket, and 2001 ITR cams. As for the tranny, an Excedy organic clutch with lightened flywheel, ATS 4.9 FD with possible MFactory 3rd, 4th, and 5th close gears also.
At this point I'm debating if I would have any sort of huge benefits of having Skunk2 stage 1 cams over the 2001 ITR cams.
Is there anything else I should replace or install while I have the engine apart?
Any advice or comments are welcomed.
TIA
At this point I'm debating if I would have any sort of huge benefits of having Skunk2 stage 1 cams over the 2001 ITR cams.
Is there anything else I should replace or install while I have the engine apart?
Any advice or comments are welcomed.
TIA
Skunk2 stage 1 vs OEM ITR cams?
Well, I'd say they are pretty close to the same profile.
My question is, are your purchasing the 01 ITR cams? If so, how much? And then compare them to the price you are paying for the S2S1 cams.
How many miles on the engine? If say, around 80k+ I would consider an oil pump since your already there. Also I don't see mentioned a Water Pump.
Personally, I'd do all the seals as well, dizzy o-ring, cam seal, crank seal. While you have it apart, it's way easier to do these now.
HTH
Well, I'd say they are pretty close to the same profile.
My question is, are your purchasing the 01 ITR cams? If so, how much? And then compare them to the price you are paying for the S2S1 cams.
How many miles on the engine? If say, around 80k+ I would consider an oil pump since your already there. Also I don't see mentioned a Water Pump.
Personally, I'd do all the seals as well, dizzy o-ring, cam seal, crank seal. While you have it apart, it's way easier to do these now.
HTH
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave-ROR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah cause the dizzy o-ring is like 14 hours of work afterwards 
I agree with the midget though, even though it's very un-team lazy of him.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah yeah...
To me, I'd rather replace all that crap while it's out and especially during a rebuild... Why? Well how would you feel putting your chit back together only to have a leak a week later?
<---- BIG on preventative maintenance.

I agree with the midget though, even though it's very un-team lazy of him.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah yeah...

To me, I'd rather replace all that crap while it's out and especially during a rebuild... Why? Well how would you feel putting your chit back together only to have a leak a week later?
<---- BIG on preventative maintenance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pikey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My B18C5 on one of my 1997 ITR's is burning quite a bit of oil so I am gonna bite the bullet and do a rebuild. I do not plan on going on crazy with the rebuild. If my cylinder walls just need re-honing, I plan on slapping in JDM ITR pistons with new rings, new seals and gaskets which include valve seals, main & rod bearings, OEM headgasket, and 2001 ITR cams. As for the tranny, an Excedy organic clutch with lightened flywheel, ATS 4.9 FD with possible MFactory 3rd, 4th, and 5th close gears also.
At this point I'm debating if I would have any sort of huge benefits of having Skunk2 stage 1 cams over the 2001 ITR cams.
Is there anything else I should replace or install while I have the engine apart?
Any advice or comments are welcomed.
TIA
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would HIGHLY suggest NOT using those two setups together. One or the other, don't do them both.
At this point I'm debating if I would have any sort of huge benefits of having Skunk2 stage 1 cams over the 2001 ITR cams.
Is there anything else I should replace or install while I have the engine apart?
Any advice or comments are welcomed.
TIA
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would HIGHLY suggest NOT using those two setups together. One or the other, don't do them both.
Pikey, did you do the compression test and leak down test on your engine?
my engine is burning oil crazy as well...it burned 1 liter of oil every tank of gas...


i did both test on mine, compression was fine and leak down was only 9% leak...
It looks like my valve seals/guide are done...well you may want to check it first before you rebuild it
If you go to track alot, get the spoon or toda or circult work oil pump/oil pump gear.
if you need oversize jdm itr pistons(with pins but no rings) and spoon headgasket, I have a set for sell. Also i may sell my brand new exedy organic clutch kit and exedy flywheel if i buy the Used Ogura Hyper single clutch set from ajr
well, if you need them, pm me
btw, do you still have the Nology Spark Plug Wires and the OMP harness, if i come over to vancouver next friday or so, i will come to check them out and i may buy them off from u
my engine is burning oil crazy as well...it burned 1 liter of oil every tank of gas...



i did both test on mine, compression was fine and leak down was only 9% leak...
It looks like my valve seals/guide are done...well you may want to check it first before you rebuild it

If you go to track alot, get the spoon or toda or circult work oil pump/oil pump gear.
if you need oversize jdm itr pistons(with pins but no rings) and spoon headgasket, I have a set for sell. Also i may sell my brand new exedy organic clutch kit and exedy flywheel if i buy the Used Ogura Hyper single clutch set from ajr
well, if you need them, pm me
btw, do you still have the Nology Spark Plug Wires and the OMP harness, if i come over to vancouver next friday or so, i will come to check them out and i may buy them off from u
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk2 stage 1 vs OEM ITR cams?
Well, I'd say they are pretty close to the same profile.
My question is, are your purchasing the 01 ITR cams? If so, how much? And then compare them to the price you are paying for the S2S1 cams.
How many miles on the engine? If say, around 80k+ I would consider an oil pump since your already there. Also I don't see mentioned a Water Pump.
Personally, I'd do all the seals as well, dizzy o-ring, cam seal, crank seal. While you have it apart, it's way easier to do these now.
HTH
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The '01 ITR cams are part of a trade so no money is paid. Right now the engine sits @ 105,000kms and the t-belt and waterpump was changed @ 100,000kms. I ordered a kit which includes all the seals/gaskets to do the rebuild. Only thing I did not consider is the oil pump, but will get that replaced as well since you've mentioned it.
So, you say since I have '01 ITR it's not worth it to get the Skunk2 stage 1 cams since their profiles are pretty similair?
Well, I'd say they are pretty close to the same profile.
My question is, are your purchasing the 01 ITR cams? If so, how much? And then compare them to the price you are paying for the S2S1 cams.
How many miles on the engine? If say, around 80k+ I would consider an oil pump since your already there. Also I don't see mentioned a Water Pump.
Personally, I'd do all the seals as well, dizzy o-ring, cam seal, crank seal. While you have it apart, it's way easier to do these now.
HTH
</TD></TR></TABLE>The '01 ITR cams are part of a trade so no money is paid. Right now the engine sits @ 105,000kms and the t-belt and waterpump was changed @ 100,000kms. I ordered a kit which includes all the seals/gaskets to do the rebuild. Only thing I did not consider is the oil pump, but will get that replaced as well since you've mentioned it.
So, you say since I have '01 ITR it's not worth it to get the Skunk2 stage 1 cams since their profiles are pretty similair?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would HIGHLY suggest NOT using those two setups together. One or the other, don't do them both.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are the drawbacks of having both setups together? Which will give me better acceleration, the close gears or 4.9 FD?
I would HIGHLY suggest NOT using those two setups together. One or the other, don't do them both.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are the drawbacks of having both setups together? Which will give me better acceleration, the close gears or 4.9 FD?
From what I've been told from people who have personal experience with both M-Factory close gearing, and 4.928FD, is that the close gearing makes the bigger difference in acceleration, as opposed to a 4.928FD.
The draw back to using both, is running out of gear at about 120MPH.
The draw back to using both, is running out of gear at about 120MPH.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I've been told from people who have personal experience with both M-Factory close gearing, and 4.928FD, is that the close gearing makes the bigger difference in acceleration, as opposed to a 4.928FD.
The draw back to using both, is running out of gear at about 120MPH.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Being here in Vancouver B.C. we have more traffic lights than long stretches of highways so maxing out at 120MH is not a real issue for me
The draw back to using both, is running out of gear at about 120MPH.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Being here in Vancouver B.C. we have more traffic lights than long stretches of highways so maxing out at 120MH is not a real issue for me
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pikey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The '01 ITR cams are part of a trade so no money is paid. Right now the engine sits @ 105,000kms and the t-belt and waterpump was changed @ 100,000kms. I ordered a kit which includes all the seals/gaskets to do the rebuild. Only thing I did not consider is the oil pump, but will get that replaced as well since you've mentioned it.
So, you say since I have '01 ITR it's not worth it to get the Skunk2 stage 1 cams since their profiles are pretty similair?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, profiles are pretty similar. Kinda like the difference (without exacts obviously) from a 97-98 cam to 00-01 cam. Nothing worth more than say $50 IMO.
The '01 ITR cams are part of a trade so no money is paid. Right now the engine sits @ 105,000kms and the t-belt and waterpump was changed @ 100,000kms. I ordered a kit which includes all the seals/gaskets to do the rebuild. Only thing I did not consider is the oil pump, but will get that replaced as well since you've mentioned it.
So, you say since I have '01 ITR it's not worth it to get the Skunk2 stage 1 cams since their profiles are pretty similair?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, profiles are pretty similar. Kinda like the difference (without exacts obviously) from a 97-98 cam to 00-01 cam. Nothing worth more than say $50 IMO.
The stock Type R has Nikasil liners.
I tried doing a 0.5mm overbore - but they ovaled over time and it started burning oil again. Get a quality machine shop to do the work! Otherwise sleeving is the way to go.
I would use cast pistons if you can find them (there was a thread in the all motor forum a while back about someone that makes overbore cast pistons for the b-series)
I tried doing a 0.5mm overbore - but they ovaled over time and it started burning oil again. Get a quality machine shop to do the work! Otherwise sleeving is the way to go.
I would use cast pistons if you can find them (there was a thread in the all motor forum a while back about someone that makes overbore cast pistons for the b-series)
^ The pistons you're thinking of are made by RS Machine, they make JDM Type-R replica pistons from 81mm-85mm. Opens up a new world of cheap opportunity for budget B20 builds, that's for sure.
The 81mm pistons with rings are only $150 shipped I believe? MUCH cheaper than OEM, which would be about twice that.
The 81mm pistons with rings are only $150 shipped I believe? MUCH cheaper than OEM, which would be about twice that.
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