I have a Jdm h22a and recently the valves started to get louder, so I assumed it was time for a valve adjustment. I've never did a valve adjustment before this weekend, so before hand I read over all of the posts on here to make sure I was going to do it right. The first attempt I adjusted them to (intake) .006 with a good bit of drag to the point where .007 would barely fit in, and (exhaust) .007 with .008 barely fitting in, which I had read on one of the write ups that was a good way of checking to make sure it was right. Torqued everything down and double checked all the valves. Finished up and started the car and ticking noise was still there and even louder with and idle the dip every time I revved it up.

I assumed I had maybe adjusted them too tight, so today I re-adjusted them with less drag, or "slight drag" as the Honda manual says to do. Torqued everything down and double checked the clearances. Started the car and the ticking noise was just as loud before, but the idle was a little bit better, but not as good as before I did the adjustments, and the ticking noise is still louder than before I did the adjustments.

Would torquing the bolts down slightly too much cause the ticking to get louder? I just bought a torque wrench from autozone,which I don't think it was the greatest quality. Or do you just have to get clearance absolutely perfect? If anyone has any insight to give I would appreciate the help!

 

IIRC the more loose they are addjusted the louder the ticking will be. When I did mine I made it so the lower of the tolerance gages would barely fit in, and I got no ticking after that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a Jdm h22a and recently the valves started to get louder, so I assumed it was time for a valve adjustment. I've never did a valve adjustment before this weekend, so before hand I read over all of the posts on here to make sure I was going to do it right. The first attempt I adjusted them to (intake) .006 with a good bit of drag to the point where .007 would barely fit in, and (exhaust) .007 with .008 barely fitting in, which I had read on one of the write ups that was a good way of checking to make sure it was right. Torqued everything down and double checked all the valves. Finished up and started the car and ticking noise was still there and even louder with and idle the dip every time I revved it up.

I assumed I had maybe adjusted them too tight, so today I re-adjusted them with less drag, or "slight drag" as the Honda manual says to do. Torqued everything down and double checked the clearances. Started the car and the ticking noise was just as loud before, but the idle was a little bit better, but not as good as before I did the adjustments, and the ticking noise is still louder than before I did the adjustments.

Would torquing the bolts down slightly too much cause the ticking to get louder? I just bought a torque wrench from autozone,which I don't think it was the greatest quality. Or do you just have to get clearance absolutely perfect? If anyone has any insight to give I would appreciate the help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

it just sounds like you arent getting it quite right. why? i dont know. from what i can tell you are approaching it right. you are checking each cylinder at TDC right? if you are doing that, and checking the clearance correctly, then you shouldnt be having a problem.

 

After writing the post I found a website that explained that there will be less ticking the closer you get to the lower end of the tolerance. I'm pretty sure my problem is that I'm definitely not getting them tight enough like you said. It also was a pain because I was using vice grips with a long 10mm socket to tighten the bolts, which by the time I would get to the last two cylinders I wasn't taking as much time and being as careful because my back was about to give out because it would take so long for each cylinder. But I just ordered the special tool for amazon and I'm going to attempt it again this weekend. And Yeah I made sure I had all the cylinders at TDC and rotated the crank 180 degrees each time I moved to the next cylinder. Thanks for the help

 

I've "heard" you can go .001 less than minimum and be safe still. Make sure when your torquing your nuts down your not moving the adjustment lower with the lock nut.

Try .005 and .007 but make damn sure what I've "heard" is safe still. He said even .002 from factory spec can be done even, but he personally prefered to set it at .001 less than spec.

Like I said though, hopefully someone else will concur! Either way you should be safe on the low factory side of the specs (.006 and .007)

Your method listed below is correct<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I adjusted them to (intake) .006 with a good bit of drag to the point where .007 would barely fit in, and (exhaust) .007 with .008 barely fitting in!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

my car ticked before it was rebuilt and after...

it ticked when i had shops do my valve adjustments and it ticks after i do them...

dunno what to tell ya but the motor is going to tick.

or at least mine does

 

all H's do a little. but some more than others.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by plikit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car ticked before it was rebuilt and after...

it ticked when i had shops do my valve adjustments and it ticks after i do them...

dunno what to tell ya but the motor is going to tick.

or at least mine does </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah you never gonna make it really quite it, would still tick as long as it's not to loud. Base on my experience, loose is better than too tight. Too tight would cause low compression and cause misfire code.. that's only my opinion though.

 

Yeah I read from another website while I searching that some people for racing applications set lash up to .002 below the recommended specs to increase lift of the valve to increase horsepower. Whether this is true or not, I have no idea, but I'm going to to try to stick to lower end of specs when I adjust them again. But is interesting to think that you could possibly gain horsepower by going slightly lower than the recommended specs and get the maximum amount of lift out of your stock cams. Has anyone else tried or heard about this?

 

the ticking is normal..its your injectors..I always check the lash after I torque down the nuts

 

I did recheck the lash after I torqued them down, I just think I got them way to loose than what they should be. I know what the injectors sound like their a very slight clicking noise, this is much louder and definitely coming from the valves.

&lt;embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i194.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid194.photobucket.com/albums/z228/atrusexystallion/fc4db3f5.flv"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;

 

I guess the video doesn't want to work...o well I need to get to work!

 

Yep, its probably your injectors if you've already adjusted the valves. Nothing you can really do about that. If you don't hear it, that can bad.