I have a couple of problems that are hanging me up putting the zc into the ef.
The ZC that I am putting in is out of a 92-95 car and is going into a 90 civic.. I changed the dizzy and the intake manifold.. but one big thing I stupidly did not think of is the motor mount on the drivers side. The bracket on the engine does not fit the motor mount. If I take the crank stuff off would I be able to switch the brackets off of the blocks so that the mounts would line up with the bolts?
My other issue is the crank pulley bolt is stuck, I have searched the many threads on this so I know the different measures needed to get it off, I just want to make sure that it is threaded regularly so to get it off I would turn it counter-clockwise. I would feel like quite the idiot if it is threaded reverse and I have been fighting it the wrong way.


Modified by 90_Si at 9:00 PM 7/22/2007


Modified by 90_Si at 9:00 PM 7/22/2007


Modified by 90_Si at 9:01 PM 7/22/2007

 

1. Yes remove the bracket from the sohc zc and replace it with your old bracket. Thats what i have done on almost every swap.

2. Threaded normally

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaJDMimports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Yes remove the bracket from the sohc zc and replace it with your old bracket. Thats what i have done on almost every swap.

2. Threaded normally</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

Ok thanks guys, I was originally going to wait on the timing belt and water pump after I got it into the car since that bolt was being such a pain but then the mount came up, which I don't know why I did not think of it... so its got to come off either way.. I have already bent 2 half inch non-ratcheting breakers on it trying to get it off.. the next step is welding a deep well impact socket onto a 6 foot pipe that I know will not bend.. if that doesn't do it then I am hauling the thing to a damn RV or 18 wheeler shop to knock it loose. Hopefully the jury-rigged breaker or my buddy who has a bigger air compressor and impact gun than I do will work because I really hate having to pay someone to do something like that.. even if it costs me more in new tools and gallons of PB Blaster to do it myself.

 

sounds like your using cheap breaker bars, just use that 6 foot pipe on a quality breaker bar and you'll be fine, at least use a craftsman or better since they are lifetime gauranteed and tend to not break or bend so fast because of the higher quality (I use snap-on personally)

 

That is the crazy thing about it.. we aren't using cheap breaker bars.. We first tried ratchets with extensions that I wouldn't call cheap but they were nothing special and those extensions snapped real fast haha.. We have a 1 inch breaker that we use on axle nuts that I cannot imagine it bending so if I can find a 17mm socket with a 1 inch input somewhere I am gonna give that a whack (if I cant then I am doing the 1/2 in welded onto the pipe), if that does not do it then my mind will be blown.

 

I just think the welded socket is over board as is the 1inch drive ratchet. I have broken loose alot of crank pulley bolts that the strongest 1/2 gun and compressor would not remove and most were 19mm bolts on 2.2s and 2.3s and v6s which are much harder to remove than any 17mm civic bolt ever is (even though they can be tough too) and I'm telling you that my matco 1/2 ratcheting wrench (24inch) has never bent or broken as well as the snap on breaker bar I have used in conjunction with very large pipes or other extentions. I HAVE bent cheaper tools though including craftsman which I don't really like much for professional use, they are pretty much on the bottom of the totem pole when it comes to professional Tools

by the way, make sure you spray the bolt with some P.B. blaster to help break up any rust cause this can REALLY help

 

I agree with you 100% as far as tool quality hierarchy.. I would also normally think that 1 inch would be overboard, but this bolt is stuck... it is amazing how stuck.. Iv been douching it in PB Blaster periodically as well. If going overboard with the one inch is what it will take, then I am willing.. In my searches on this topic I saw that people went as far as heating it with a torch to loosen it (something I would rather not do due to the fact that heating metal changes its strength and how brittle it is or isn't) so it seems they can get rather stuck.. this is the first one I have ever attempted to take off that didn't easily break loose with just a ratchet and a foot long cheater pipe.