I have ran into somethings I didn't know about h22 motors and thought i would share them. I'm sure alot of you know this already but i thought what the hell. Ok, i hydro-locked my motor by sucking water up my cai. If you don't have a bypass valve on yours BUY ONE!!!!!!. Yea live and learn right. When i tore my engine down if discovered a bent rod. I purchased a set of Eagle rods for it. NOTICE: You can not use stock pistons with Eagle rods. Eagle rods are designed for a full floating wrist pin, stock uses a press type wrist pin. Plus the pins in the eagle rods are bigger than stock ones. Ok, also Mahle is the only company i could find that makes a set of pistons that will work in a stock block. Anyother piston you must first sleve the block. So yea. . . . just thought i would let everyone else know without finding out the hardway like i did. But i should have researched it better first. BTW. . . here is my setup so far. Ported, polished head with skunk 2 valves, springs, retainers. Eagle rods, Mahle 10.1 pistons. ARP headbolts, main studs. Gasket matched head to intake and ported intake. Removed iab's. Adj. cam gears. Hondata to come soon.

 

Just out of interest, why have you stuck with stock CR?

 

i personally would not use mahle, and would buy oem pistons..

 

h22a4 and the type S pistons both use the floating wrist pin design

 

also, you could have just looked here...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=416069

to see that its wise to sleeve when using forged pistons

 

Why are you using Mahle pistons if you're going to stay with stock compression? Get either the OE or Type-S pistons.

 

Its a daily driver. I don't want super high compression cause i'm gonna run pump gas. I want the motor to last, trying to avoid detontation. I wanted to go to Eagle rods for the strength cause i bent a stock one. I will most likely bottle feed it in the near future also thats why i want forged pistons. I wanted mahle pistons so i don't have to sleeve the block.

 

You don't need the Mahle's. Get oem. Do more research.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ericdachampion86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a daily driver. I don't want super high compression cause i'm gonna run pump gas. I want the motor to last, trying to avoid detontation. I wanted to go to Eagle rods for the strength cause i bent a stock one. I will most likely bottle feed it in the near future also thats why i want forged pistons. I wanted mahle pistons so i don't have to sleeve the block. </TD></TR></TABLE>

but if you are going to keep the same compresion, run h22a4 pistons, they are full floters as well, both the mahles and h22a4 run 10:1 CR, dont waste your money on forged pistons, esp mahles

 

So how many of you bigmouths have seen a perfectly honed/machined mahle setup fail (besides the initial batch)? Every build that I've seen that was performed by a shop that knew how to work with the FRM sleeves (primarily honing and proper PTW clearances) is running strong till this day.

All pistons fail sometimes, this includes CP, GE, Arias etc. Use the search button and find out for yourselves. You shouldn't even have to search, I've read countless Blown Motor threads where the guy wasn't sure why the piston scarred against aftermarket sleeves or iron sleeves as an example, or why a chunk broke out of the piston when the AFR was perfect and there was no detonation blah blah...

Regardless i still believe complete re-sleeving with forged pistons is the way to go, just don't bash mahle because there's very few shops that know how to machine FRM sleeves.

 

Mahle makes the pistons in the world. However, the OP does not need them for his build.

 

eagle also makes two different rods for the h-series. one floating, one not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragethemachine86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how many of you bigmouths have seen a perfectly honed/machined mahle setup fail (besides the initial batch)? Every build that I've seen that was performed by a shop that knew how to work with the FRM sleeves (primarily honing and proper PTW clearances) is running strong till this day.

All pistons fail sometimes, this includes CP, GE, Arias etc. Use the search button and find out for yourselves. You shouldn't even have to search, I've read countless Blown Motor threads where the guy wasn't sure why the piston scarred against aftermarket sleeves or iron sleeves as an example, or why a chunk broke out of the piston when the AFR was perfect and there was no detonation blah blah...

Regardless i still believe complete re-sleeving with forged pistons is the way to go, just don't bash mahle because there's very few shops that know how to machine FRM sleeves.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

why pay premium price for forged pistons, running the SAME CR as the stock h22a4 pistons? yeah, real smart there.

oh, and Im sorry, I dont care who says they will work with the FRM sleeve, I wont ever trust the forged piston with the FRM sleeve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .BigSexy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh, and Im sorry, I dont care who says they will work with the FRM sleeve, I wont ever trust the forged piston with the FRM sleeve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's a bit naive

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that's a bit naive </TD></TR></TABLE>

the pictures in that one thread speak for themselves.

If I were to run forged, I would go the extra mile and sleeve, just my personal opinion.

 

It is naive to base your judgement off one thread. There wasn't even any documented blueprints for that engine. People have run &gt;400whp setups on the Mahle's without any problems. The OEM F20c, C30/32 and Jun pistons are forged, and work flawlessly in their FRM blocks. In an NA motor, it'd be stupid to throw away something as brilliant as FRM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is naive to base your judgement off one thread. There wasn't even any documented blueprints for that engine. People have run &gt;400whp setups on the Mahle's without any problems. The OEM F20c, C30/32 and Jun pistons are forged, and work flawlessly in their FRM blocks. In an NA motor, it'd be stupid to throw away something as brilliant as FRM. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it IS a risk, that has paid off for some, and others have paid dearly for it. Its a risk that Im not willing to make. Others can do it, and make 400whp, Ill be like awesome! but its just MY opinion, you dont have to believe it, and call me naive, that's ok.

 

Everything's a risk a soon as you undo that first headbolt, main cap, change that first part. That's how it goes. Mahle supplies every German auto maker and formula one team

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .BigSexy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why pay premium price for forged pistons, running the SAME CR as the stock h22a4 pistons? yeah, real smart there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are telling me the only reason to buy aftermarket pistons is to alter the CR? That's just about the dumbest thing I've ever heard. Granted on boost you 'should' change your CR for safer tuning but it's far from necessary/required.

And the fact that the Mahle pistons are much stronger than OEM pistons doesn't seem to interest you either. How silly of you to think that people replace stock with Mahle pistons not to strengthen the bottom end, but to solely change the CR.

Yes, you are naive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ragethemachine86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are telling me the only reason to buy aftermarket pistons is to alter the CR? That's just about the dumbest thing I've ever heard. Granted on boost you 'should' change your CR for safer tuning but it's far from necessary/required.

And the fact that the Mahle pistons are much stronger than OEM pistons doesn't seem to interest you either. How silly of you to think that people replace stock with Mahle pistons not to strengthen the bottom end, but to solely change the CR.

Yes, you are naive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didnt see anywhere he was planning on boosting. He could spend the money else where and gain more power than just changing out for forged pistons.

And ive seen many h22a4's run for a long time, sure forged are lighter and stronger, but when you dont plan on boosting or increasing the CR, its kind of worthless

 

you dont need mahles to run spray... like they said research more.

ive went through 6 bottles on the 100 shot with no problems what so ever.. 2 teardowns for inspection and compression tests with every oil change comes up perfect.. if you run the right plugs, injectors, fuel pump, and most importantly TUNE, you can run spray and make good power. i make a shade over 300 to the wheels on spray with a pretty mild n/a build and the 100 shot... 6 months and going strong...

research more young grasshoppa

 

Do you have any problems with the ECT? I'm having issues with a big coolant leak and i need to know what i eed to take out to get to that area.

 

this is my first post ever.my name is levi i live in texas and i am a prelude lover.her is se pics of my most recent 93 prelude thars my most recent awd canidate...enjoy

 

how do i find url on my gallery on my phone.after finalling makeing profile iam unable to share my build:-(