How many degrees does the timing have to be off to trigger the CKP CEL? OBD1

 

It's not about how far the timing is off. That error is based on the signal being MIA or otherwise unable to pickup a signal from that sensor.

 

I don't know what my problem is then.

Y7 block
Z6 head/im/dist
Y8 cam/cam gear
P28

I put a mark on the crank pulley for 16* since the D16Y's run on 12*, and set the timing according to that.

If I try to drive it, it bogs down as if the timing is off (both at 12* and 16*).

I redid the wiring for the CKP yesterday and it test out fine. The dist guts are from my Y7 dist which worked fine with no CEL's before I did the headswap. Did the same thing with the Z6 dist guts.

 

i'm guessing thats the obd2a p28?

 

OBD1

 

Can you take that distributor & swap it onto an engine that works? Just to verify that the sensors themselves are working.

When you re-did the wiring for the CKP, the (+) lead might be shielded? I'm not sure if it IS shielded, but if so, did you handle that properly? Didn't short the signal to the shield?

 

It took my 2 days to complete the headswap. The night before I started was the last time I drove the car, and there were no codes for any of the dist sensors, so I'm pretty sure the sensor itself is good. Please explain the shielding.

 

Like I said I don't know all years/models... but my '95 Integra had shielded wire.

Kinda like a miniature version of coax cable. The signal is the small center wire, that's insulated. Then it's surrounded by a foil wrap, & more insulation over all of this. It's all within a wire that doesn't really look any bigger than a normal wire.

So if you just cut wires & strip insulation, you might connect the signal (middle core wire) to the shield (foil wrap). You have to be careful not to connect them to each other. The shield should be grounded at only one point, & I can't remember which end of the shield is grounded.

The shielded wire is actually shown in the wiring drawing in the Helm repair book.

 

The Helms show all three dist sensor lead wires are shielded for 96. Since you said 95 GSR is as well I'll assume a 95 EX/Si is too. It shows the lead wires coming out of the distributor, then shielded and the shield is grounded at G101, which is the ground on the thermostat. The leads coming out of the dist and going into the plug are not shielded. They are just normal wire. The wires on the engine side of the plug are regular wires as well. So I don't see how I could have shorted a shield as there is no shield at the point where I did the wiring. I had added the VTEC solenoid ground to G101. I took that off and reconnected G101 as it is stock and that made no change.

Other than getting a new harness, is the only other fix to run a new shielded wire from the sensor to the ECU, and have the shield ground connect at G101?

 

I guess I was confused about exactly where you spliced the wiring. Just in case the wires you cut were shielded, do you think you'd have seen that & known what it was? Not trying to dis you, but I'm just making sure I don't take anything for granted.

First you should get a multimeter & verify each wire. Check for continuity to the other end & also make sure each wire has no continuity to ground. If you're comfortable with wiring, maybe running a new wire is the easy way to check.

Look carefully at the plug at the ECU (or any plugs??). I've heard people say the pins can push back from their proper position, then they don't actually make good contact with the socket of the ECU. Make sure that particular pin sticks out just as far as the others.

 

Already checked it with my Fluke meter and it all checked good. Pins are firmly in the plugs. My dad printed off a GM bulletin about shielded wiring. Tomorrow I'm going to redo the CKP lead. Cut it where I have the Z6 dist plug spliced in, put a new pin on it, and plug that into the plug. If that doesn't work then I'll just run a new shielded wire from the sensor to the ECU. I just don't get why if the wires are shielded as the Helms says they are, how come the shielding doesn't start until sometime after the dist plug. I'll update tomorrow after I've tinkered with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... I just don't get why if the wires are shielded as the Helms says they are, how come the shielding doesn't start until sometime after the dist plug...</TD></TR></TABLE>Exactly.

I never needed to splice into mine, but maybe it really IS shielded the whole way. Maybe the Helm book doesn't show that detail because Honda considers that wire to be an integral part of the distributor. That shield may be grounded to the distributor?

 

The Helms shows the dist shielding being grounded at G101 which is at the thermostat. Raining right now so I'm not touching it.

 

I meant that maybe the little bit of wire attached to the distributor itself might have a shield that's grounded to the distributor. (And that peice of shield isn't shown.) The long part of the wire can still have it's shield grounded at G101.

 

I looked at the 96 dist plug that came from my harness and none of the wires are shielded. Neither are the wires on the old Z6 dist internals.

 

Used a scotch connector for the CKP wiring. Also switched the wire on the engine side using the one I thought was the tach wire. The CKP CEL is gone, but now the CYP light is on. Going to go mess with it, but any ideas would be helpful. Doesn't idle like a V8 now, instead it sounds like a gold cart, put-put-put-put-put...

 

It's fixed now. Just looking for a vacuum leak.

 

How'd you fix it?

Vacuum leaks can be tough to track, too.

 

Had to repin the CYP wires. One was going to nothing since I used that one for the CKP.

I don't think its a vacuum leak. idle is solid, and it doesn't rev up when I spray carb cleaner.

 

There was no vacuum leak. I checked my Helms for the MAP wiring colors. I had the MAP and TPS connectors switched. SO I had to pull the MAP wiring out of the loom so it would reach the MAP. Took it on a drive. Has no power. Pulled the plugs. #2 and #3 are fouled really bad. Pitch black, but not wet with oil or anything. Going to go get some new plugs, then adjust the timing on it. After that all I have to do is re-wire the VTEC stuff so it'll work.