Been practicing runnin some beads befor i attempt to weld my manni together. I think im doing ok but when i try to run a wider bead i loose the color and is turns gray. I tried moving faster but it didn't seem to help. My small narrow beads look ok to me but i could be wrong. Could you guys point me in the right direction.





And the machine i picked up for 900 complete with water tank and pump

 

good kill

welds look like they are coming along. you can sort of see where you progressed from being too hot to having nice even beads with not too much discolouration.

 

Turn up the gas flow.

 

nice vw hood you got there!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cua0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good kill

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QFT.

amazing pick up

 

the weld in the very middle of the pipe in the last pic is the one closest to what you are trying to achieve. Notice the color at the end where you held your post purge. That's what you want to shoot for. Try a groove weld on some 1/8 plate with about 65 amps and just floor it and go. It's easier to learn how to get color by starting out cold and getting warmer and faster than it is to go the other way.

Keep in mind it's 100% impossible to get 100% penetration on that pipe with no chamfer. Don't be surprised that your welds come out hot and inconsistant when you are just laying it on top of the pipe like that because that's not actually how its' done nor is it the weld you will be making on the manifold(we hope).

My advice is to practice on flat stock of the same thickness as the sch pipe you are using with the same fitup you will be using welded in the flat position.

good luck and report back.

 

Thanks that really helps me and i will practice that some more tonight. And all of my pieces are beveled for my manni

I will try to shoot some pics tonight of my progress

 

Here is the progress on my manifold. It is alot harder to weld consistently aroud a tube then a piece of flat stock. I have so much more respect for u guys that make it look so perfect. I noticed that my welds look a little "undercut" in some spots. Do i just need to add more filler in a single pass or do i go back over it? Let me know what u think and please educate me on how to get better.


Click to make bigger

 

I do a fusion pass with no filler as my root, then repass it using filler as a "cap". Some guys do a single pass, but I've not really gone down that road. To ensure good penetration you basically want to do 2 passes.

Looks good overall though man. Just get those joints filled and your good to go.

You welded it not connected to the flange or a jig though...your gonna be damn lucky if it all fits without some serious gaps. That stainless moves like crazy when you weld it, and if it isn't locked in some sort of fixture it'll wreak havoc on your fitment.

 

nice improvement.

If fuse the root pass like RC00E said, can always do it in three passes should you fail to fill the entire groove on the 2nd pass. What size filler are you using? on sch 10 with a no filler root pass you could probably get away with as big as 1/8.

 

I'm almost done welding it!!! I ran into a problem though, I cant get everything welded with it bolted to my jig. Do u think it is welded enough that i can safely weld the rest of it unbolted from the jig or do i still run the risk of warping it.





Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 55superbeetle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm almost done welding it!!! I ran into a problem though, I cant get everything welded with it bolted to my jig. Do u think it is welded enough that i can safely weld the rest of it unbolted from the jig or do i still run the risk of warping it.


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yes, if the majority of it is welded, let it cool then you can take it off and safely weld it unattached to the jig

 

Coming along nicely Congrats!

 

Why not just turn your jig upside down to get a little morre welded

 

Great job man!!!!

 

good job on your first manifold!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do a fusion pass with no filler as my root, then repass it using filler as a "cap". Some guys do a single pass, but I've not really gone down that road. To ensure good penetration you basically want to do 2 passes.
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Take it for what its worth but I was always taught that doing a pass with no filler can cause issues. I know hairline cracking is one of those issues.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Take it for what its worth but I was always taught that doing a pass with no filler can cause issues. I know hairline cracking is one of those issues.
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That's why he said he does the root pass with no filler , then go over that pass with filler. buy doing this method he fuses the metal together with a autogenous weld, so when he goes over it with the filler he can concentrate on the cosmetic of the bead.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Desir Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's why he said he does the root pass with no filler , then go over that pass with filler. buy doing this method he fuses the metal together with a autogenous weld, so when he goes over it with the filler he can concentrate on the cosmetic of the bead.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What I ment, even a root pass with no filler is bad as well, specially for items that will be under stress.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What I ment, even a root pass with no filler is bad as well, specially for items that will be under stress. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bad? How?

That is how pipe is welded and will ALWAYS be much stronger than a single pass.

Go read any pipe welding book.

It is bad if you don't clean off the weld afterwards. The you are just welding over contamination.

 

As to the original poster, when you practice, practice on a real joint. Don't lay a bead on a flat piece of pipe section, its never an accurate account of what you are doing.

Also no matter how clean your first weld is, you must always brush off the haz ( heat effected zone ) or the color part. If you leave that on there, during your second pass you will have to heat that area up more then you should causing an over heating issue, causing a bad second weld .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bad? How?

That is how pipe is welded and will ALWAYS be much stronger than a single pass.

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Did I ever say a single pass was stronger then a double, what I was told was if you do a root pass with no filler, it can cause issues. One of the issues was minor hair line cracking. The same with to much filler but thats more on a second pass, to much filler can also cause hairline cracking thats seen more towards the end of a weld.

And I can imagine if you don't add any filler on the first pass that it would cause issues, since in reality your melting away material. Like I said, take it for what its worth, do I have anything to back it up... no... I just open my ears and listen when someone with greater knowledge speaks.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Go read any pipe welding book.
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The mentality on this site really stinks, everyone is so critical of everyone, or just acts like they know it all . Like I said, its hear say, but when someone that is a master in this field speaks, I open my ears and listen to everything he has to say.As for the book comment, like I said, I have no solid book information, all hear say from real world welders. If you pick up a pipe welding book though, you most likely won't see a lot of pipe welders using a tig machine in that field, its mostly arc welding.

I'm always open to ideas, or thoughts, it really seems like a lot of people on this board have that mind set that they know it all.

You never ever know it all, the day you start thinking that, is the day you should quit your job. There is always going to be someone better out there, and just because its not printed in a book, does not mean its wrong.

Modified by RCautoworks at 2:02 AM 7/28/2007


Modified by RCautoworks at 2:05 AM 7/28/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The mentality on this site really stinks,
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why i stopped posting my stuff.


btw, manifold looks 100% better than my first!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weiRtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why i stopped posting my stuff.
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Why a lot of people don't post in here anymore... and don't even visit anymore. Sad though cause there is so much to learn from others.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why a lot of people don't post in here anymore... and don't even visit anymore. Sad though cause there is so much to learn from others. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Slow down. Calm down. Take a deep breath.

I think you are trying to hear a tone that is not there.

I simply asked what you heard was bad and stated what was in any pipe welding book.