What part's are needed to fix this issue? :Searched:
Ok, I lost 5TH/Reverse on my m2a4 about a month ago. I have since gotten 5th back and it works normal but R is like it is not even there. I have read and read and done all sorts of tests. The linkage is fine, the fluid was fine but has since been replaced just to be sure. I have a new clutch kit / flywheel combo waiting to be put on. I have tried about every "short fix" method to get it to work and still nothing.
So I believe I need to replace a fork or reverse synchro pack. But I can't find what I am looking for on hondaautomotiveparts.com. Anyone want to point the finger in the right direction for me?
So I believe I need to replace a fork or reverse synchro pack. But I can't find what I am looking for on hondaautomotiveparts.com. Anyone want to point the finger in the right direction for me?
fork is no 1 I believe
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...7.gif
synchro no 8 ( I may be wrong here- someone confirm)
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...4.gif
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...7.gif
synchro no 8 ( I may be wrong here- someone confirm)
http://www.hondaautomotivepart...4.gif
Well I answered my own question after some reading. Figured I would let everyone else here know who doesnt.

#1 Fork is 5th gear & Reverse. #5 is the mechanism that flips it.

#8 is 5th gear sleeve kit. #9 is reverse synchro.

#13 & 16 are good maintenance parts to replace if digging into the tranny this far. ISB and seal.

#1 Fork is 5th gear & Reverse. #5 is the mechanism that flips it.

#8 is 5th gear sleeve kit. #9 is reverse synchro.

#13 & 16 are good maintenance parts to replace if digging into the tranny this far. ISB and seal.
Reverse is not technically synchronized. It's engaged with the idler gear, as you can see. If you replace the fork, you'll likely damage the roll pin that secures the 5th gear fork in place, so I would replace that as well.
Another thing to keep in mind is that when you change any of the synchro hubs or bearings on the mainshaft, you probably will alter the end play in the mainshaft. This needs to be shimmed back to spec. On the 4 or 5 transmission rebuilds I've done, I have yet to have one stay in spec after the bearings and/or synchro hubs have been changed.
Another thing to keep in mind is that when you change any of the synchro hubs or bearings on the mainshaft, you probably will alter the end play in the mainshaft. This needs to be shimmed back to spec. On the 4 or 5 transmission rebuilds I've done, I have yet to have one stay in spec after the bearings and/or synchro hubs have been changed.
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Look in the service manual. It covers it there. You need to have a special tool to move the mainshaft to check the end play with a dial indicator. IIRC, spec is around 0.004" - 0.006" end play, but it's been awhile since I check, so I might be a bit off. I do recall the spec being a fairly narrow margin.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maharajamd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok cool. My FSM doesn't come till later this week.
Hmm special tool, I could be screwed there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can always use some other tool or combination of tools in place of a "special tool".you just gotta be creative and open minded.
Hmm special tool, I could be screwed there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can always use some other tool or combination of tools in place of a "special tool".you just gotta be creative and open minded.
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