15/16" to 1" MC question
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From: fountain inn, sc. where they still rock banjos on porches, usa
ok i did alittle research on this matter, so my question is really a yes/no.
ok i'm doing a full brake swap (15/16" mc, brake booster, front calipers and full rear disc convertion) from a 90 Integra to a 90 Crx Dx w/VW Carrabo rotors and fastbrake brakets.
now i just found a 1" MC from a 1999 Acura Integra LS very cheap almost free. now from this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=818263
i can see that the brake booster are very different, is possible to still run the 1" mc on the 90 integra booster?
and what other booster can be compatible.
EDIT: maybe i should post my setup to help:
BRAKE
90 VW Carrabo front rotors (11" big brake upgrade)
Fastbrake caliper brakets
Stainless Steel brake lines
EBC Red Stuff
90 Integra front cailpers
90 Integra rear disc converstion
90 Intgera 15/16 master cylinder
90 Integra brake booster
90 Integra 40/40 proporton valve
90 Integra 23mm front swaybar
97 Integra ITR 22mm rear swaybar(i just picked up)
97 Integra ITR r/lca (just pick them up)

now since i'm upgrading my brake system should i go all the way up to 1"?
should i go w/a 40/40 proportion valve or should i used a different proportion valve?
the reason i ask about the proportion valve since my front rotors are going to be alot bigger than the rear should i have more braking power in the front, for better cornering let say autoxing?
or should i just stay w/the 40/40?
Modified by remoer at 2:09 AM 7/16/2007
Modified by remoer at 2:40 PM 7/17/2007
ok i'm doing a full brake swap (15/16" mc, brake booster, front calipers and full rear disc convertion) from a 90 Integra to a 90 Crx Dx w/VW Carrabo rotors and fastbrake brakets.
now i just found a 1" MC from a 1999 Acura Integra LS very cheap almost free. now from this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=818263
i can see that the brake booster are very different, is possible to still run the 1" mc on the 90 integra booster?
and what other booster can be compatible.
EDIT: maybe i should post my setup to help:
BRAKE
90 VW Carrabo front rotors (11" big brake upgrade)
Fastbrake caliper brakets
Stainless Steel brake lines
EBC Red Stuff
90 Integra front cailpers
90 Integra rear disc converstion
90 Intgera 15/16 master cylinder
90 Integra brake booster
90 Integra 40/40 proporton valve
90 Integra 23mm front swaybar
97 Integra ITR 22mm rear swaybar(i just picked up)
97 Integra ITR r/lca (just pick them up)

now since i'm upgrading my brake system should i go all the way up to 1"?
should i go w/a 40/40 proportion valve or should i used a different proportion valve?
the reason i ask about the proportion valve since my front rotors are going to be alot bigger than the rear should i have more braking power in the front, for better cornering let say autoxing?
or should i just stay w/the 40/40?
Modified by remoer at 2:09 AM 7/16/2007
Modified by remoer at 2:40 PM 7/17/2007
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From: colorado springs, co, albania
I only wanted to use the MC on my stock 91 SI brake booster, but the 2 points where they bolt together did'nt line up. So I had to swap the booster as well, not sure if same for the 99 but check into that too
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by remoer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i did alittle research on this matter, so my question is really a yes/no.
ok i'm doing a full brake swap (15/16" mc, brake booster, front calipers and full rear disc convertion) from a 90 Integra to a 90 Crx Dx w/VW Carrabo rotors and fastbrake brakets.
now i just found a 1" MC from a 1999 Acura Integra LS very cheap almost free. now from this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=818263
i can see that the brake booster are very different, is possible to still run the 1" mc on the 90 integra booster?
and what other booster can be compatible.
Modified by remoer at 2:09 AM 7/16/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't answer your question about what boosters are compatible, but I'd like to recommend sticking with a 15/16" mc and booster from a DA or at least a 15/16" mc on your stock booster. The 1", in my opionion and that of a track buddy who ran one on his ED hatch, is over kill and may take away some of the pedal feel you want to maintain.
I run a 15/16" DA mc and booster and the fastbrakes 11" kit with Wilwood calipers and I have a firm pedal with a bit of give so that definitely makes heel-toe-ing a bit easier.
ok i'm doing a full brake swap (15/16" mc, brake booster, front calipers and full rear disc convertion) from a 90 Integra to a 90 Crx Dx w/VW Carrabo rotors and fastbrake brakets.
now i just found a 1" MC from a 1999 Acura Integra LS very cheap almost free. now from this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=818263
i can see that the brake booster are very different, is possible to still run the 1" mc on the 90 integra booster?
and what other booster can be compatible.
Modified by remoer at 2:09 AM 7/16/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't answer your question about what boosters are compatible, but I'd like to recommend sticking with a 15/16" mc and booster from a DA or at least a 15/16" mc on your stock booster. The 1", in my opionion and that of a track buddy who ran one on his ED hatch, is over kill and may take away some of the pedal feel you want to maintain.
I run a 15/16" DA mc and booster and the fastbrakes 11" kit with Wilwood calipers and I have a firm pedal with a bit of give so that definitely makes heel-toe-ing a bit easier.
Thread Starter
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From: fountain inn, sc. where they still rock banjos on porches, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need an abs booster if you use the abs master</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i knew that about keeping the abs mc/booster together. so the LS mc is abs?
yeah i knew that about keeping the abs mc/booster together. so the LS mc is abs?
If the booster say 260v on the top of it where the "buck tag" is then it is non-abs, if it says 290v then it is abs.
You can take that to the bank.
You can take that to the bank.
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Thread Starter
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From: fountain inn, sc. where they still rock banjos on porches, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the booster say 260v on the top of it where the "buck tag" is then it is non-abs, if it says 290v then it is abs.
You can take that to the bank. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that really good to know but i can't put a abs MC/booster on a non-abs car. correct.
by the was did you ever get my pm for a crx climate control plate?
You can take that to the bank. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that really good to know but i can't put a abs MC/booster on a non-abs car. correct.
by the was did you ever get my pm for a crx climate control plate?
I wasn't aware there was a non-ABS 1" MC.
What is it used in?
I ran a 15/16" for a while and then put in a 1"
The boosters are different so I had to make a spacer to take up the difference.
I lost a little feel between the 15/16 and the inch.
The 15/16 seemed easier to modulate, but I am running DA brakes front and back.
I plan to install Accord Wagon fronts and maybe Prelude Si rears or possibly modify my proportioning valve to gain some more rear bias instead of installing bigger rear rotors.
What is it used in?
I ran a 15/16" for a while and then put in a 1"
The boosters are different so I had to make a spacer to take up the difference.
I lost a little feel between the 15/16 and the inch.
The 15/16 seemed easier to modulate, but I am running DA brakes front and back.
I plan to install Accord Wagon fronts and maybe Prelude Si rears or possibly modify my proportioning valve to gain some more rear bias instead of installing bigger rear rotors.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: fountain inn, sc. where they still rock banjos on porches, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wasn't aware there was a non-ABS 1" MC.
What is it used in?
I ran a 15/16" for a while and then put in a 1"
The boosters are different so I had to make a spacer to take up the difference.
I lost a little feel between the 15/16 and the inch.
The 15/16 seemed easier to modulate, but I am running DA brakes front and back.
I plan to install Accord Wagon fronts and maybe Prelude Si rears or possibly modify my proportioning valve to gain some more rear bias instead of installing bigger rear rotors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was told the same thing about running a 1" you lose like the very little of peddle play, like the second you press the brakes you're braking, instant.
i have the DA f/r calipers, 40/40 proportion valves and i will have huge 11" rotors in front.
can you enlighten a bit on the space part?
What is it used in?
I ran a 15/16" for a while and then put in a 1"
The boosters are different so I had to make a spacer to take up the difference.
I lost a little feel between the 15/16 and the inch.
The 15/16 seemed easier to modulate, but I am running DA brakes front and back.
I plan to install Accord Wagon fronts and maybe Prelude Si rears or possibly modify my proportioning valve to gain some more rear bias instead of installing bigger rear rotors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was told the same thing about running a 1" you lose like the very little of peddle play, like the second you press the brakes you're braking, instant.
i have the DA f/r calipers, 40/40 proportion valves and i will have huge 11" rotors in front.
can you enlighten a bit on the space part?
I bought a 15/16 MC and booster. I ran it for a while then I swapped in a 1" MC but kept the 15/16" booster because I thought they would interchange. They do bolt together but the booster's "finger" doesn't extend into the MC far enough to engauge the brakes. I tried adjusting my brake pedal to compensate but it didn't work so I made a "finger" extension that allowed the brakes to work. It took a lot of measuring and adjusting to get the length perfect.
I also had to make an adaptor to adapt the ABS's one big brake line to the non-ABS sized fitting.
I bought the correct ABS booster but since the first swap made me want to kill someone I haven't yet installed the ABS booster.
The 1" MC feels fine after using it for a year now. But I do remember the 1st time after I swapped it in I could feel a loss of sensitivity. If I raced or something I might go back to the 15/16". It bolts right in from a DA and the brake lines only need a slight tweek and no adaptor or custom flare. If you're a bigger is better guy then get the 1" and don't forget the booster and the bigger brake line fitting from the ABS car.
I also had to make an adaptor to adapt the ABS's one big brake line to the non-ABS sized fitting.
I bought the correct ABS booster but since the first swap made me want to kill someone I haven't yet installed the ABS booster.
The 1" MC feels fine after using it for a year now. But I do remember the 1st time after I swapped it in I could feel a loss of sensitivity. If I raced or something I might go back to the 15/16". It bolts right in from a DA and the brake lines only need a slight tweek and no adaptor or custom flare. If you're a bigger is better guy then get the 1" and don't forget the booster and the bigger brake line fitting from the ABS car.
Thread Starter
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From: fountain inn, sc. where they still rock banjos on porches, usa
thanks man that was really good info in if you're going to do it right do it right the first time. so i guess i'll start hunting down the BB for the MC. thank.
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From: fountain inn, sc. where they still rock banjos on porches, usa
i've edit the top post but here what i edit:
now since i'm upgrading my brake system should i go all the way up to 1"?
should i go w/a 40/40 proportion valve or should i used a different proportion valve?
the reason i ask about the proportion valve since my front rotors are going to be alot bigger than the rear should i have more braking power in the front, for better cornering let say autoxing?
or should i just stay w/the 40/40?
now since i'm upgrading my brake system should i go all the way up to 1"?
should i go w/a 40/40 proportion valve or should i used a different proportion valve?
the reason i ask about the proportion valve since my front rotors are going to be alot bigger than the rear should i have more braking power in the front, for better cornering let say autoxing?
or should i just stay w/the 40/40?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 282
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From: fountain inn, sc. where they still rock banjos on porches, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Correct CANNOT swap ABS MC or Booster with Non-Abs MC or Booster.
The one inch MC only comes with ABS 290v Booster.
Yes and I replied. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok i understand you can't put a ABS MC on a NON-ABS BB and vice a versa. (thats very clear)
but but the thread i link up on top states you can put a ABS MC/BB on a non ABS sytem like my DA system. i think that clearly states that w/elwood post.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elwood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They only have to be re-flared if you go from:
asb<--->non abs
non abs<--->abs
If you switch from what your car came with, you have to re-flare
the lines and get the nut thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damd i just answered my own question. lol.
but now should i stay w/the 40/40 proportion valve or go with my like my stock porportion valve. i want to a well balance in my braking system while helping me w/very aggressive braking. i can't have both but i want to better system for aggressive barking very aggresive.
The one inch MC only comes with ABS 290v Booster.
Yes and I replied. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok i understand you can't put a ABS MC on a NON-ABS BB and vice a versa. (thats very clear)
but but the thread i link up on top states you can put a ABS MC/BB on a non ABS sytem like my DA system. i think that clearly states that w/elwood post.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elwood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They only have to be re-flared if you go from:
asb<--->non abs
non abs<--->abs
If you switch from what your car came with, you have to re-flare
the lines and get the nut thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
damd i just answered my own question. lol.
but now should i stay w/the 40/40 proportion valve or go with my like my stock porportion valve. i want to a well balance in my braking system while helping me w/very aggressive braking. i can't have both but i want to better system for aggressive barking very aggresive.
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