type r cams and oil priming a motor
i have two questions i just did a fresh rebuild on a 97 gsr its all forged bottom end. and a built head with type r cams and when i spin the exhaust cam its really smooth but when i spin the intake cam its smooth then it jumps really fast. if that makes any sense ? its hard to explain but it clicks lol and also how do u prime a motor that dosent have any oil in it.
thanx alot
thanx alot
Pack the oil pump with as much assembly oil as possible to keep it from dry pumping, this is the only part to really be concerned with on the rebuild startup.
Take all the spark plugs out and unplug the distributor, and crank the engine, this way the engine has no load being placed on it due to compression, and it rotates fast and smooth. Do this until your oil light goes out, at that point, you can hook it all up and fire her up.
The days of "packing and oil pump with vaseline or grease" are well over, pumps have much tighter clearances than they did back then, and is no longer required. The only reason for lots of assembly lube in the oil pump is because you always want oil on those gears.
Take all the spark plugs out and unplug the distributor, and crank the engine, this way the engine has no load being placed on it due to compression, and it rotates fast and smooth. Do this until your oil light goes out, at that point, you can hook it all up and fire her up.
The days of "packing and oil pump with vaseline or grease" are well over, pumps have much tighter clearances than they did back then, and is no longer required. The only reason for lots of assembly lube in the oil pump is because you always want oil on those gears.
alright i did that but how do i get oil to cover the whole crank case ? and do u know wants wrong with the cams ? or if there is even anything wrong with them?
You do it by cranking the engine, which will fill the oil pump and spray oil everywhere it is supposed to be, you'll be fine, just crank it over like I said, that is bar none the safest way to flood an engine with oil.
If you think the cams are bent, I would take them to a place that can precisely measure warpage. If you know anyone with V-blocks and a good dial indicator set them up and see if they are in fact warped, thats really the only advice I can give since your statement is kinda vague.
If you think the cams are bent, I would take them to a place that can precisely measure warpage. If you know anyone with V-blocks and a good dial indicator set them up and see if they are in fact warped, thats really the only advice I can give since your statement is kinda vague.
tegdude, i dont think you should worry about the cams much. sounds to me like you are spining the cams freely(without the timing belt attached to it). it could very well just be that the ramp angles of the cams and the pressure of the springs which give it the slight push/hold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tegdude, i dont think you should worry about the cams much. sounds to me like you are spining the cams freely(without the timing belt attached to it). it could very well just be that the ramp angles of the cams and the pressure of the springs which give it the slight push/hold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was gonna mention that, but I was hoping he wasn't meaning that.
I was gonna mention that, but I was hoping he wasn't meaning that.
but y is the intake doiing it and not the exhuast ? and yes i was doing it without the timing belt and i was thinking i will be fine once i put the timing belt on right ? as long as i get the timing right
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Are you meaning when you turn it all of a sudden it turns really easy and then jumps ahead and stops? Thats what happens when the lobes push on the rockers, when the cam lobe passes its highest point, the valve springs push back against the cam, causing it to "jump" forward like that.
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