Ok, so im posting on here to try and get some decent feedback and ideas on where to go from here. This was my first run on this setup. I know Dyno results dont always read accurately, there are so many factors to consider, and on the day, alot of cars were getting low figures. An EDM H22A7 Accord Type R especially, only ran 186BHP, which is poor considering they're 212BHP stock, and his was stock! So that didn't bode well.

So anyway, here's what i ended up with.

169whp/149ft.lbs torque.

H22A8
Running OBDII with stock timing & no tune or headwork.
11:1 comp

Mods...
AEM V2
Vibrant Header
Vibrant Cat-Back
Test Pipe
NGK Plugs & Wires
Skunk2 Cam Pulleys (stock timing tho)
AEM Auxillary Pulleys
8lbs Fidanza Flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch

Engine has 73k miles, regularly maintained with 5-30w oil. Rolling on 18/215/35.

Not entirely sure what to make of the results, AFR seems ok, and is peaking power through till about 7600rpm.

Ideally i need a tune of some sort. Am thinking VAFCII for the moment until i get some S2P2 cams etc when i want an EMS. Some experienced feedback would be nice, and what would be the best way to go from here to reach around 180whp mark.

The graphs...

 

186 HP on a car that is producing 212 flywheel power is very good. As for your numbers they are pretty much on par with stock H22's. Tunning should net you about 15-20hp...

 

1. expletive the V-AFC2 just get an EMS why waste the money to buy the shitty V-AFC2 if you already plan to upgrade it? it's only a few hundred more for a real engine tuning device.


just to give you a little insight into the power of proper tuning

my H22a4 (only 10:1) comp stock everything expect

AEM CAI w/bpi flowstack(not cut to a short ram)
Greddy sp2
magnaflow highflow cat
NEGK plugs and wires
8 lb ACT fly wheel
exedy stage 2 clutch

on 16 rota slipstreams made 180whp.

I understand all the differances and yadda yadda but even with my stock header thats a giant gap of power.

by looking at your AFR you need tuning and you need tuning bad

12.5 is way too rich to be making good power, your not spooling a turbo you don't need to be in the 12's

even before you bit VTEC your running too lean to make good power, then in VTEC that is WAY too lean until about 6000rpm then you just get way too rich again.

I mean your AFR are fine for hum duming around town but your not making anywhere near the power you should be making or could be making

also keeping it on the OBD2 is killing you because the engine it just detuning all your mods, did you reset your ECU before you got on the dyno? if not your ecu probably has detuned all your mods hence why you are getting around stock power output.

the VAFC will be detuned as well, skip the chump stuff get Hondata, uberdata, chrome or whatever EMS you like and get that thing tuned until most any other mod your going to do is gonna feel like a waste of money.

I found most power at 13.2 -13.5 on my H22

 

TBH the only EMS im totally interested in is the AEM EMS stand alone ECU. Because providing nothing bad happens to the engine in the next 12 months, i want to boost it and dyno tune it fully. Problem is the AEM EMS is real expensive unless your lucky, so will hold out on that until the time comes.

Some say i will see gains from a VAFCII tune and lower VTEC point? Possible or not?

I have reset the ECU since the mods, but i didnt reset it again prior to the dyno run, nevermind. So what tune do you have on your setup to get 180whp if you dont mind me asking? Is your VTEC still at stock rpm too?

Thanks.

 

you will see gains from a VAFCII tune and a lower VTEC engagement point BUT for just a tad bit more money you will see twice the gains with a real EMS. The AEM is expensive and really only needed if you have the cash just laying around or you are building a race car. Hondata/Neptune/Uberdata/Chrome all those are more then enough for a street car with the mods you have. Plus your getting into mods that you need independent ignition tuning to even take advantage of them, and you cant get that with a VAFC. Cam gears and especially those skunk 2 cams you want need to be tuned for probably just to get a good idle, VAFC has it's limits and really once you get into that stuff it's way over it's head in trying to tune with that stuff.

I am using a Chipped P28 with Hondata S300 and my VTEC is set at 4400, but if you didn't know it you wouldn't even heard/feel it till 4800 it's a very smooth transition. Also one of the better things that the Hondata has that VAFC doesn't is the ability to set what pressure you want your intake manifold to be at before you switch over to VTEC. So I can still cruise a good 80-85ish if I want to and be on the low cam lobe since I'm not into the WOT pressure ranges. But once you put your foot down all the power from VTEC kicks in, really makes the car's highway speed come out.

If you want to boost it then why would you get to N/A cams, you should look for boost cams then and just wait till you boost to put the cams on. Also street tune your car while it's still N/A that way you can just start tuning right for the boost.

 

18s FTL

 

God.....I wish people would stop comparing their Dynos......
Just a tidbit.......after hours and hours of tuning.........on a ~180whp bolt-on H22 Hondata S200 made a whopping 3whp/0tq over a VAFC that was tuned after 10 pulls.
People need to stop looking for these STUPID Peak power gain #'s......
some day you will learn........Peak power # is just a lame *** number people use to brag with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Tunning should net you about 15-20hp...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I love these claims.......

On the Dyno I made 204 and 187 on, your setup would make high 170's-low 180's.
My 187whp was with a very similar setup to yours but untuned with S2S1 cams.
Fully tuned that same setup made 196whp/160tq tuned with a VAFC!

 

hmm I just made 184 whp (210@crank) with only a stock jdm h22a (odbII), short ram intake, obx-r header and axle back ss exhaust.
Is the difference between usdm/edm and jdm engines really that big or do bolt-ons just provide that little extra power

 

Different Dynos.....different parts.....different run conditions.......
thats why I hate people comparing their numbers.....
The setup you made 184whp with would be lucky to get mid 170's on the dyno I use.
I wish there was a universal way to measure power.....there just isn't.
You can't even compare ET's because of a multitude of conditions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :=:NirVTEC:=: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just a tidbit.......after hours and hours of tuning.........on a ~180whp bolt-on H22 Hondata S200 made a whopping 3whp/0tq over a VAFC that was tuned after 10 pulls.</TD></TR></TABLE>


how was under the curve for both of the units though, I'm suspecting that the Hondata S200 had more power through out the curve over the VAFC, also your tuning on OBD1 so you don't have to worry about OBD2 learning over your VAFC tuning.

Although your right comparing dynos is pretty much useless because of the mutititude of various conditions that effect the output, really it is one of the better way we have to compare without everyone picking 1 dyno to always go to =P, so no use getting worked up about it until something better comes along people are going to compare dyno's online.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by :=:NirVTEC:=: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I love these claims.......
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I baselined at 169whp. After being tuned with crome with nothing more than I/E/H I made 181whp. Dont ASSume you know it all based on your personal expierence..Though I suppose I should scale it back from15-20 to 10 -15 since thats the more likely outcome

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cb7-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I baselined at 169whp. After being tuned with crome with nothing more than I/E/H I made 181whp. Dont ASSume you know it all based on your personal expierence..Though I suppose I should scale it back from15-20 to 10 -15 since thats the more likely outcome</TD></TR></TABLE>

10-15 would be more realistic.....I just don't like people having their expectations built up too much. I had so many let downs when I 1st started dyno'ing Preludes.