f20b or h23 vtec?
just got another prelude with a blown h22 in it. need help deciding what motor to put in it the jdm f20b dohc vtec motor? or the euro h23 vtec. and suggestions would help thanks
H23A.
If it were me though I would rebuild and sleeve a 97mm F23 shortblock with 89mm 14:1 CR, 250 gram pistons, running a ported 300CFM F22A1 head Stage 3 Bisimoto cam with H22 Euro-R or K20A RBC intake manifold via my spiffy adapter plate, 70mm throttlebody, custom 18 gage 321 stainless 1.875" -> 2.125 -> 2.500" 3-2-1 header with merge collectors and megaphone running E85 105 octane gas on 450cc injectors and standalone engine management.
240 whp, 190wtq, nasty idle, nonvtec and different.
I mean that's why you want either the F20B or the H23A VTEC right? To be different? So instead of ***** footing around why not do something really different? Take the necessary steps to install one of these:
http://www.h1v8.com
Smaller than the H22, 23% more displacement, 11000 rpm redline, 245 ftlbs of torque and 400 horsepower on stock profile camshafts and 11:1 compression.
that is different.
Good luck.
Pirate
If it were me though I would rebuild and sleeve a 97mm F23 shortblock with 89mm 14:1 CR, 250 gram pistons, running a ported 300CFM F22A1 head Stage 3 Bisimoto cam with H22 Euro-R or K20A RBC intake manifold via my spiffy adapter plate, 70mm throttlebody, custom 18 gage 321 stainless 1.875" -> 2.125 -> 2.500" 3-2-1 header with merge collectors and megaphone running E85 105 octane gas on 450cc injectors and standalone engine management.
240 whp, 190wtq, nasty idle, nonvtec and different.
I mean that's why you want either the F20B or the H23A VTEC right? To be different? So instead of ***** footing around why not do something really different? Take the necessary steps to install one of these:
http://www.h1v8.com
Smaller than the H22, 23% more displacement, 11000 rpm redline, 245 ftlbs of torque and 400 horsepower on stock profile camshafts and 11:1 compression.
that is different.
Good luck.Pirate
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.h1v8.com
Smaller than the H22, 23% more displacement, 11000 rpm redline, 245 ftlbs of torque and 400 horsepower on stock profile camshafts and 11:1 compression.
that is different.
Good luck.
Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah... ah i will take 2, thanks.
http://www.h1v8.com
Smaller than the H22, 23% more displacement, 11000 rpm redline, 245 ftlbs of torque and 400 horsepower on stock profile camshafts and 11:1 compression.
that is different.
Good luck.Pirate</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah... ah i will take 2, thanks.
If it were me though I would rebuild and sleeve a 97mm F23 shortblock with 89mm 14:1 CR, 250 gram pistons, running a ported 300CFM F22A1 head Stage 3 Bisimoto cam with H22 Euro-R or K20A RBC intake manifold via my spiffy adapter plate, 70mm throttlebody, custom 18 gage 321 stainless 1.875" -> 2.125 -> 2.500" 3-2-1 header with merge collectors and megaphone running E85 105 octane gas on 450cc injectors and standalone engine management.
240 whp, 190wtq, nasty idle, nonvtec and different.
WTF??? wow lol still at a loss for the 3-2-1 header and all, but very interesting read.
240 whp, 190wtq, nasty idle, nonvtec and different.
WTF??? wow lol still at a loss for the 3-2-1 header and all, but very interesting read.
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H23A.
If it were me though I would rebuild and sleeve a 97mm F23 shortblock with 89mm 14:1 CR, 250 gram pistons, running a ported 300CFM F22A1 head Stage 3 Bisimoto cam with H22 Euro-R or K20A RBC intake manifold via my spiffy adapter plate, 70mm throttlebody, custom 18 gage 321 stainless 1.875" -> 2.125 -> 2.500" 3-2-1 header with merge collectors and megaphone running E85 105 octane gas on 450cc injectors and standalone engine management.
240 whp, 190wtq, nasty idle, nonvtec and different.
I mean that's why you want either the F20B or the H23A VTEC right? To be different? So instead of ***** footing around why not do something really different? Take the necessary steps to install one of these:
http://www.h1v8.com
Smaller than the H22, 23% more displacement, 11000 rpm redline, 245 ftlbs of torque and 400 horsepower on stock profile camshafts and 11:1 compression.
that is different.
Good luck.
Pirate
If it were me though I would rebuild and sleeve a 97mm F23 shortblock with 89mm 14:1 CR, 250 gram pistons, running a ported 300CFM F22A1 head Stage 3 Bisimoto cam with H22 Euro-R or K20A RBC intake manifold via my spiffy adapter plate, 70mm throttlebody, custom 18 gage 321 stainless 1.875" -> 2.125 -> 2.500" 3-2-1 header with merge collectors and megaphone running E85 105 octane gas on 450cc injectors and standalone engine management.
240 whp, 190wtq, nasty idle, nonvtec and different.
I mean that's why you want either the F20B or the H23A VTEC right? To be different? So instead of ***** footing around why not do something really different? Take the necessary steps to install one of these:
http://www.h1v8.com
Smaller than the H22, 23% more displacement, 11000 rpm redline, 245 ftlbs of torque and 400 horsepower on stock profile camshafts and 11:1 compression.
that is different.
Good luck.Pirate
help? i want to put a f20b in my DA. what do i do. email me wlplayer909@aol.com thanks

Research F/H series installs into the chassis......
Why would you want Hondas TQ-less wanna-be H series?
What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Do you plan on rebuilding/modifying the motor in the future? Or are you just look for a replacement motor for the blown H22 that is "different" than the norm? An F20B long block goes for something like $850, whereas as a Euro R complete changeover will be something like $3900. How much of a role does cost play in this decision?
Are the stock H22s not strong? why do you keep blowing it? I know for turbo they suck, but most 4 bangers do, unless you re-sleeve them. H23 block with H22 head now that's nice. The F20B and the H23A head quit at 6.5k to 7k. My H22 puts out torque to 7.8k with a 1.75 exhaust and accord throttle body. Find a H23a block and put High volume oil pump on it and keep the head just re lap the valves.
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