I have tried time and time again to line the cams up perfectly but this is the best I could do. I will give it another try later tonight I just want to know if this is ok or not.

 

Due to many different tolerances, they are hardly ever "perfect" yours is fine.

 

Thats what my friends dad was saying as well. I am baffled then as to why my timing will not set right. With the distributor all the way towards the firewall I only get 12 degrees of timing. I thought that maybe this would be the cause of that, but I guess not.

I am gonna adjust the valves and then I am gonna try it again with a different timing gun that is non adjustable.

 

It looks like the head or block may have been milled. You can adjust the cam gears to compensate for that.

 

He has ST Corsa gears and they only adjust in full degree increments. One degree will be too much imho.

 

The head has not been milled to increase compression, if it was milled it was done when the head was ported to correct a problem with straightness or something. Same goes for the block. So it looks like I will be leaving them there I guess.

 

mine is a lot worst than that, and works perfectly. I had to adjust both gears 2 degrees in advance to correct the timing before tuning.

 

I have a question about that. Your saying that when you adjusted the cam gears 2 degrees forward, you were able to get the timing gun to read 16 degrees?

I ask this because we double checked it all again, and this was all we could come up with, and the timing is around 12 but is jumping all over the place. I just want to be able to get it running at 16 degrees smoothly.

I tune tomorrow on hondata so maybe the tuner will know whats going on.

 

Ahem...... Tooth off on bottom

 

Do the VTEC heads have the holes in the camshafts that align with the camshaft end caps? I know the LS heads had that feature, made it very easy as you could set a small screw in each hole to keep them lined up no matter what.

 

My friend was over last night and he was telling me about a tool that he used before. It held both gears in place so they could not move at all, making it alot easier to set the timing correctly. Anyone know of a tool like this?

 

If the VTEC cams have those little holes that line up at the top of the support caps and the camshaft then you can stick screws/nails/screwdrivers into the holes and it locks the camshafts both in the straight up position. You could then adjust your camgears to line up with the teeth of the belt.

 

not to muddy the waters or anything here - mine looks the same also on my C1 - the motor is stock, was never out of the car - I changed the cam gears from stock
and the stock gears lined up perfectly - I guess I will play with timing a bit to see
what happens

good luck with everything

 

Timing looks a tooth off to me in THIS picture

If you can only get 12deg of timing with the Dist fully advanced YOU HAVE A TIMING BELT PROBLEM. You are defiantly off a tooth somewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redman223 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ask this because we double checked it all again, and this was all we could come up with, and the timing is around 12 but is jumping all over the place. I just want to be able to get it running at 16 degrees smoothly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

- did you check ignition timing with the service connector bridged?


Modified by MikeSarr_GSR at 1:46 PM 7/12/2007

 

i noticed not all Bseries crank pulleys are alike.
sometimes the marks are slightly different then another.
probably between generations

are the motor and crank pulley a perfect match?

 

I can see the three timing marks, but I don't see the solo white mark that should be under the lower cover pointer. Is it just the pic, but actually it is directly under the lower cover pointer?

 

based on the timing etches, it seems implied due to his level of concern.

 

Yeah in the picture its hard to see, but the crank pulley is lined up with the timing cover I think I found the problem though, as when setting timing it has to be set with the idle around 850ish and my idle has been jumping around due to a badly bored throttle body. I just got the car tuned with hondata today and everything is fine on the car now, it feels like a totally new car. I just have to go back with another throttle body next week to get it to time right on the pulley.

The timing was jumping around because of the idle, so once thats fixed all should be well regarding the timing marks. Thanks for all the replies.

 

one thing, also - timing always jumps around without the service connector bridged.
when you bridge it, it takes away all compensation from the ecu cycle to cycle and
puts it in a diagnostic mode to check the timing. if it was doing that in diagnostic
mode, that would be a new one on me. but its the little blue connector in a green
spongy 'mock' plug by the ecu. pull it out and stick a paperclip in it and watch
the magic. only way to check ignition timing

 

You have to make sure it is warm though, if it is idling high bc its cold the timing will be off.

Forget the marks on the crank pulley, set tdc with the mark on the flywheel, if that is off, then you're off on the timing side. Check the timing from there.

 

Yeah it was jumping around in diagnostic mode, because I put a jumper in there and it still jumped around. I will check it again once I replace the throttle body, I should be picking one up this weekend from a friend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to make sure it is warm though, if it is idling high bc its cold the timing will be off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is the first thing i thought about.