when installing the new main input shaft bearing seal which side faces down i forgot was it flat side down?

and for the 2 washers

number 15 and 16 which one goes one top or which one goes towarrd the case and which one toward the main shaft they both look the same but one is bigger than the other.

 

never mind my first question i found this picture

still need help with those two washers though

 

23927-PG2-A00 #15 WASHER, SPRING (28MM)
23928-PS1-000 #16 WASHER (28MM)

#15 is a spring washer. It's probably conical in shape. Put it on a flat table or a piece of glass to see if it's flat. Put that on the shaft 2nd after the regular washer like in the pic.

Also if you have the old parts then look for signs of wear on the washers and on the output shaft to try to deduce their original positions.

I happen to have the K20 service manual and the washer position of the spring washer and the regular one look like this --<|== (lame illustration I know)

I am DLing the Prelude transaxle manual chapter and when it finishes I can give definitive answers.

Pirate

 

download this (19Mb):
http://downloads.hondatech.inf...e.zip
go to page 61, lower left.

Pirate

 

Beware that you need to check the end play in the mainshaft and shim back to spec if necessary.

 

thanks guys... i dl'ed the service manual for the 93-96 prelude off hondahookups and i've been going off that. is the one you linked me pirate much different

 

this sucks i'm starting to notice more things.. on the counter shaft at the end there is a ball bearing and a needle bearing is it normal for the needle bearing to make noise? its not necessarily a clicking but more like metal rolling or lie those metal ball links they have at the bank connected to their pens to keep from people steeling them. sounds like what that would make off a desk.

i also tried putting the transmission housing back on and it wont completely mate. i'm about a quarter of an inch away from where the snap ring meets the bearing groove.

i'm stumped now and my brain is dead. any ideas what i could have done wrong.

i'm looking in my manual 117 but i can't find out exactly where to do that i can see one section where it just says to inspect shim clearance and use proper size shim but that doesn't sound right at all. why would i need to use a new shim.


Modified by gaydm.accord at 4:50 PM 7/11/2007

 

On every transmission I've done where I've replaced a bearing or synchro hub pack, the end play has been different. Sometimes it's out of spec, sometimes it's right on the edge of being in spec. I've never had one come out right in the middle of the spec without replacing the shim with one of a different thickness.

Make sure you have everything assembled correctly, and nothing is out of alignment. Getting the two halves back together is the easy part!

 

good news i figured out why it was slightly off. i was checking everything one by one for clearance issues but nothing added up. it ended up being 1 of the 3 shift forks didnt fit into the housing. it was the third one i just took a flat head and slightly wiggled it and it popped right in.

as for the needle bearing. it sounds pretty much the same as the needle bearing under the differential.