HELP: Car Sounds Like Garbage Disposal
For the last couple of weeks my 98 prelude has been making strange noises. The noise isn't always there its just sometimes when i start the car up in the morning (when the engines cold) and also when i come out of class and its really hot outside i will hear the noise. the noise sounds very similar to a garbage disposal, but its not as loud as one. the noise will be there for a few minutes and then it will go away. you can only hear it when your idling and at really low rpm's and its coming from the engine bay. There is nothing caught in the fans or anything i ran a compression test and i got 205, 200, 210, and 205. Im not throwin a CEL or anythin and the car runs great, I just hear that weird noise from time to time. does anyone know what it could be?
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that compression is definatly sounding not so great... haha but that noise i definatly dont know about... scarey i say for sure... get it looked at!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by My97lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">compression test and i got 205, 200, 210, and 205</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SHPrelude00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that compression is definatly sounding not so great</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are you talking about? There's nothing wrong with those numbers.
As far as the sound - not really something that can be pinned down w/o seeing the car. Check all your fluids just to be sure you aren't starving one of your systems. Also turn on your A/C while it's making the noise and see if that changes it (other than dropping some rpm's).
No performance issues though?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SHPrelude00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that compression is definatly sounding not so great</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are you talking about? There's nothing wrong with those numbers.
As far as the sound - not really something that can be pinned down w/o seeing the car. Check all your fluids just to be sure you aren't starving one of your systems. Also turn on your A/C while it's making the noise and see if that changes it (other than dropping some rpm's).
No performance issues though?
yeah those numbers are pretty good lol. Performance wise its running great. It pulls hard when im in vtec and i can push it up to 7k without any problems. Im not burning too much oil about half a quart between changes. Umm...in the mornin when the engine was cold it started up fine and there was no noise and then i drove to class came out 2 hours later and the sound was there for like a minute when i cranked it up.
You think it's coming from the engine or is it something on the chassis vibrating somewhere? Have you done a valve adjustment recently?
I did a valve adjustment right when i started hearing the sound and my valves were fine. i didn't have to touch them at all. i just checked them with a feeler gauge. Also, the noise is still there when i put my foot on the clutch. Say if i start my car and hear the noise, usually im in a hurry to get somewhere so i crank it up and throw it in first and start driving. the noise will still be there while im drivin for a minute.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by My97lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Say if i start my car and hear the noise, usually im in a hurry to get somewhere so i crank it up and throw it in first and start driving. the noise will still be there while im drivin for a minute. </TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, well that's the problem. It's really bad for the car to just start it up and drive off. When the car has been sitting the oil is draining out of the head and the bearings, so when you start it it takes a minute for everything to circulate and start to warm up the oil. Any car will be louder on start up....let your car run for a couple minutes before you take off.
OK, well that's the problem. It's really bad for the car to just start it up and drive off. When the car has been sitting the oil is draining out of the head and the bearings, so when you start it it takes a minute for everything to circulate and start to warm up the oil. Any car will be louder on start up....let your car run for a couple minutes before you take off.
i remember having this discussion on another forum. They said its ok to just start the car up and take off except in the winter. in the winter i wait a few minutes and then take off. But still if i wait before i take off and im in neutral the car will still make that sound for a minute.
Use a long hollow pipe (3/4 pvc pipe works well) and use it to listen through. This will allow you to isolate where the noise is comming from. All you do is put your ear to one end and wave the other end around an you should hear the sound get louder as you get closer to where its comming from.
Start at your dizzy I think. Mine sounded exactly how you describe when the bearing was siezing.
Start at your dizzy I think. Mine sounded exactly how you describe when the bearing was siezing.
i was looking through my maint. records and i rmr the previous owner said he had to replace the t-belt at 56k because the auto tensioner was making a flapping sound and it turned out that it wasnt tensioned properly. i also, saw this tsb print out in my records and it said that it would be covered under warranty. When i looked at the cost for what the guy paid for the t-belt and tensioner it was only $180, which is definitely not how much the t-belt would cost at honda. is it possible that he got this done under warranty and only had to pay for the t-belt kit? i am thinking that since honda put the auto tensioner and not an h23 manual tensioner that after 60k miles the same problem occured. the sound is coming from the right side of my valve cover at low rpm's. Does anyone know if its the auto tensioner? now that i think about it it is a flapping sound kinda. if this is the case shouldnt honda cover the charges for the auto tensioner since they didn't do it properly or since its on the tsb.
HAH, you would hope so, but likely not. They usually are cheap scrubs and wouldn't do a thing to help anybody out.
3 foot pvc keeps you from leaning over your running car with something around your neck lol.
I'm gonna go buy one too though (stethoscope). They work much better than a long primative plastic pipe. Pipes are also good for applying leverage though.... lets see a stethoscope do that!
I'm gonna go buy one too though (stethoscope). They work much better than a long primative plastic pipe. Pipes are also good for applying leverage though.... lets see a stethoscope do that!
hello guys I was wondering if someone could give me some insight i'm from pp.com.. For does of you that don't know me i'm come here in humility and asking for some advice
I own 00, prelude SH that was bought used in schumburg IL I did notice this noise when i first bought it used and even asked this to the sales person and service department if it was normal for the engine to tick. I only asked this b/c my friends drive b16 and b18 and they don't sound anything like my engine.. But, the answer I got from the service department is "it was normal for the preludes to make this sound." And so i bought it 4 1/2 years later and a camera captured the sound
Things of maintance
Auto-Tensioner replacement
New T-Belts
New Power and AC belts
New fluids
Valve Adjustment - I did notice mild scuff marks on the cams
All of this has been done to try to cancel the sound I'm mechanically incline I know i have to take ever part out and mic everything but, wish for your input before I dig into the block

Cold start

Warm up - The pully may sound a little loud i think it's b/c i didnt grease the pully
I own 00, prelude SH that was bought used in schumburg IL I did notice this noise when i first bought it used and even asked this to the sales person and service department if it was normal for the engine to tick. I only asked this b/c my friends drive b16 and b18 and they don't sound anything like my engine.. But, the answer I got from the service department is "it was normal for the preludes to make this sound." And so i bought it 4 1/2 years later and a camera captured the sound
Things of maintance
Auto-Tensioner replacement
New T-Belts
New Power and AC belts
New fluids
Valve Adjustment - I did notice mild scuff marks on the cams
All of this has been done to try to cancel the sound I'm mechanically incline I know i have to take ever part out and mic everything but, wish for your input before I dig into the block

Cold start

Warm up - The pully may sound a little loud i think it's b/c i didnt grease the pully
It maybe piston slap....but it could be bent valves / guides. At this point I would pull the head and check the valves and the pistons to see if they are making contact. Did you mis-shift or something?
Thanks for replying
i haven't driven the car for about year but, i did notice the sound ever since the day i had position of the car someone from pp.com did say that a rod bearing may cause it but, if this was the case would it be the big end or the small end? I'm also worried b/c i don't have much funds to replace major parts, if it turns out to be the big end of the rod bearing i would rip my hair off.. I'm burning a little oil and thought that the valve guide could cause the valve stems to stick.. I'm hoping for this guy i've been thru a lot and rebuilding a block would hurt i'll take a look at it soon and i'll post it up for updates..
Sounds like i need to get permetex blue to check out the head.. is there any way i can check spring tension at all for the head? I have used one before at school but, don't personally own one
But, to make it clear the video clip doesn't sound normal right
i haven't driven the car for about year but, i did notice the sound ever since the day i had position of the car someone from pp.com did say that a rod bearing may cause it but, if this was the case would it be the big end or the small end? I'm also worried b/c i don't have much funds to replace major parts, if it turns out to be the big end of the rod bearing i would rip my hair off.. I'm burning a little oil and thought that the valve guide could cause the valve stems to stick.. I'm hoping for this guy i've been thru a lot and rebuilding a block would hurt i'll take a look at it soon and i'll post it up for updates..
Sounds like i need to get permetex blue to check out the head.. is there any way i can check spring tension at all for the head? I have used one before at school but, don't personally own one
But, to make it clear the video clip doesn't sound normal right
there are only rod bearings on the "big" end of the rod. the wrist pin is on the other end. but changing out a rod bearing isnt something you should cry about. its not easy, but a main bearing going out on you would be alot worse.
and you use a feeler gauge to check the valve lash. you can get one of those anywhere, but i got a pretty nice one from sears. craftsman FTW.
and you use a feeler gauge to check the valve lash. you can get one of those anywhere, but i got a pretty nice one from sears. craftsman FTW.
So say if it was on the Rod bearing I know it's connected to the connecting rod throw.. but, to have a clear mind set is it a common thing for the h22's.. i thought there were oil oil gallery's in the main journal to prevent this?
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