seriously is building the d really wroth it with like i know boost is what its all about but how much power to the wheels with lets say

ON
10 lbs
with
skunk 2 turbo cams
oversized valves
built head (port and polish)
sk 2 pro series intake
nitrous sprayer over intercooler
Apexi controller
++
gutted
How much horses
1/4 mile time (ballpark)


Or an h22 swap

 

you could probably smoke 18-wheelers all day long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by casmall08@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1/4 mile time
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well my freind has a boosted hatch with a z6 and a greddy kit. 7lbs and everything else stock. it runs a low 14. id say throw an ignition in there and ud have a hell of a car if built right. btw what do you mean "cams"? i hope thats a typo or ud better just forget buildin anything.

 

i say you'll make it in the 15 brackets with that 10lb bottle

 

no offense, but without knowing what exact turbo you're using NO ONE could possibly give you a guess

after all would 10 psi through a coffee stirrer be the same whp as 10 psi through a t88...in a word <FONT SIZE="24">NO</FONT>


PLEASE research to get ballpark estimates by doiing things such as looking through the forced induction forum or more specifically the SOHC BOOSTED THREAD THAT"S OVER 200 PAGES!!!!!!

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1643764

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2035990 this will help with your decision

 

This is kind of benchracing. But to give you an idean we put a greddy kit on my buddies z6 and ran 10 lbs on stock internals. He ran a 13.6 on street tires in a del sol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCSportEJ1Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well my freind has a boosted hatch with a z6 and a greddy kit. 7lbs and everything else stock. it runs a low 14. id say throw an ignition in there and ud have a hell of a car if built right. btw what do you mean "cams"? i hope thats a typo or ud better just forget buildin anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That just let us know how much you dont know about cars, go read a book.
ignition wont do **** with a setup like that, Honda oem igniton is good to 300 HP+

 

x2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by casmall08@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seriously is building the d really wroth it with like i know boost is what its all about but how much power to the wheels with lets say

ON
10 lbs
with
skunk 2 turbo cams
oversized valves
built head (port and polish)
sk 2 pro series intake
nitrous sprayer over intercooler
Apexi controller
++
gutted
How much horses
1/4 mile time (ballpark)


Or an h22 swap</TD></TR></TABLE>


Honestly. if you got money to burn on a bulid like that, then your way better off with a B series swap.

And that whole h22 swap talk,... not to say it ain't worth the hassle, but it's way too much of a hassle. There's a lot more involved as far the swap goes when your dealing with the h series. Plus the H series swap will add an extra hundred and something odd pounds to your front end and isn't the most reliable swap, and very hard to keep street legal. But then again your makin a 200 at the wheels and the swap is cheaper.


Modified by capitol J at 5:38 AM 7/11/2007

 

you can reach about 225 pretty easily... let me modify real quick


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by casmall08@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seriously is building the d really wroth it with like i know boost is what its all about but how much power to the wheels with lets say

ON
10 lbs
with
LOG style manifold
T3 super .60
450cc Injectors with resistor box
good fuel pump
y8 intake mani

</TD></TR></TABLE>


if you boost more than 11 psi you need to get a 2.5 bar or 3 bar map sensor. You will still need some more parts to that list, but those are whats going to make power, the other stuff just makes you run right

tuning is the most crucial part though. without the right tune you wont get anywhere close to 200+whp

and you can get most of those parts and put it together for at most $1000, I only spent $600, but its not that exact same. For $1000 you get 220-225 WHP, See how much money it takes to get a Bseries there, including the swap price.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by capitol J &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Honestly. if you got money to burn on a bulid like that, then your way better off with a B series swap.

And that whole h22 swap talk,... not to say it ain't worth the hassle, but it's way too much of a hassle. There's a lot more involved as far the swap goes when your dealing with the h series. Plus the H series swap will add an extra hundred and something odd pounds to your front end and isn't the most reliable swap, and very hard to keep street legal. But then again your makin a 200 at the wheels and the swap is cheaper.
Modified by capitol J at 5:38 AM 7/11/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the money you will spend on a B series or an H series(H2B/H22+components) you are better off boosting a Dseries. I wouldnt waste my money on a B16 so I would choose the B18c/c1 and right there you are looking at 3500 installed maybe 3000 if you know the right people. With an H22 you are looking at 2k for the motor/trans + 1k for H2B + installation costs. With either of those choices you have anywhere from 170-200hp depending on which motor and usdm/jdm. Not to mention you have to dump even more money to hit a mark of 200-250whp when you can hit that with a boosted D for the same price or less depending on which route you take.

 

pretty quick before i had my setup (im k24a1 with type s **** now)

i had a similar with crome, t25, nitrous on 10 psi, pretty fun car, i LOVE the k24 tho and i plan on turboing it sometime this summer, as im typing essays all day, damn colleges

lol

**** im supposed to be typing right now later

 

just cause its good to 300hp doesnt mean i wont make a differance. i did and msd external coil and cap on my car and im glad i did. there was a huge differance. and btw i dont know of a book that would tell me what and aftermaket ignition would do on and aftermarket engine. stronger more consistant spark = better more complete combustion of the fuel/air mixture. its not that hard to understand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DCSportEJ1Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just cause its good to 300hp doesnt mean i wont make a differance. i did and msd external coil and cap on my car and im glad i did. there was a huge differance. and btw i dont know of a book that would tell me what and aftermaket ignition would do on and aftermarket engine. stronger more consistant spark = better more complete combustion of the fuel/air mixture. its not that hard to understand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have to agree with DCsport here, granted that a flawlessly working stock ignition can handle quite a bit, but seeing as how most aren't perfect, its never a bad idea to goto a cap that'll accept an external coil. But its not the most necessary upgrade unless your stock one is failing.

 

Second that!!