I read several post stating that for so much milling, advance so many degrees. But is that on the cam gears or on the distributor? I got a gsr, head milled .01" and timing is advanced 1 degree on the distributor. Running BC3 cams. Should i put it back to 16 BTDC until i get a tune next month?

 

i was lead too belive milling, retards the cam timming.
but with only .01 milled i bet oem timming will do just fine

 

okay, so then leave cam gears at zero and dist. at zero. Will advancing timing 1 or 2 degrees give better throttle response or better gas mileage?

 

milling affects cam timing not ignition timing so leave your distributor alone. You only milled your head about 10 thou, you shouldn't have to worry about cam gear correction with that little amount. 40 thou and you would have to advance your cam gears about 1 degree.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">milling affects cam timing not ignition timing so leave your distributor alone. You only milled your head about 10 thou, you shouldn't have to worry about cam gear correction with that little amount. 40 thou and you would have to advance your cam gears about 1 degree.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You might want to rethink your statement.

The timing belt is connected to the intake cam - the intake cam is connected the distributor - the knee bone is connected to thigh bone....

Cosworth Engineering

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You might want to rethink your statement.

The timing belt is connected to the intake cam - the intake cam is connected the distributor - the knee bone is connected to thigh bone....

Cosworth Engineering </TD></TR></TABLE>

And your point is? When you correct the cam timing it will correct the ignition timing

Common Sense Engineering

 

So just mark where the distributor was at stock and never touch it? Just adjust via the intake cam?

Awesome Pro Gangsta Cajun Spice Engineering \

:in thick Cajun accent: "Doan touch da tributor, boi!!, yuze comman sen boi!!! or it never run lika should. I garon tee it!!!"

 

Sure if you want stock ignition timing with a milled head. What about that doesn't make sense?

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You might want to rethink your statement.

The timing belt is connected to the intake cam - the intake cam is connected the distributor - the knee bone is connected to thigh bone....

Cosworth Engineering </TD></TR></TABLE>


Good point, I missed that. Even if the cam gear correction is minimal like it is in this case, it would still throw the ignition timing off a little (less than a degree) but point taken.

 

Remember a 1 degree movement on the cam is 2 degrees on the crank. Same with the distributer. A 1 degree movement on the cam affects your ignition timing 2 degrees.

Pat yoself on da back.

 

So what is the best position in my case, leave cams gears unadjusted and distributor at 16 BTDC? Or advance dist. 1 degree? Thanks in advance

 

Rebuilding my head again, now with head and block, .02" has been removed. How much should i advance, both the cam gears? Or just advance intake?

 

If you advance your intake, you advance your dizzy, if you set your intake cam correctly, your goin to have to reset your dizzy back to 16TDC, A rule of thumb i discoveried, and if you had search you would have probably seen my thread, for every .025 or .030 thousands taken off you advance your gears by +1, at least thats what i did with my car, and i milled the head around .020 thousands. Its not just because of SLACK in the belt, but milling does infact retard your timing, around a degree on your gears and around 2 degrees on your crank, therefore you need to compensate that, by advancing your cam gears, then readjusting yoru dizzy accordingly, Fact is, if you move the intake cam, you move your dizzy. all has to be set.
You dont just adjust your intake cam, you adjust both, did you not mill the whole head or only the back? Both cams timing is effected, not just one.

 

So then to be back at zero, advance both cam gears 1 degree, then retard dist. 1 degree.?

 

clearly

 

So when i clay my motor i should start at +1IN, +1EX cam gear settings, and consider that my 0,0. Then if i want to retard intake -1 degree, and advance exhaust 1 degree, then i will be actually at 0IN, and +2EX?


Modified by all-mtr-teg at 11:05 PM 8/25/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rebuilding my head again, now with head and block, .02" has been removed. How much should i advance, both the cam gears? Or just advance intake?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you've only removed .020" (thou) and are running a stock headgasket, you would only need to advance your cam gears 1/2 a (cam) degree which is hard to do accurately because it's so small. Just start at 0-0 and dial the gears in on the dyno. Unless you've collectively removed up to .040" thou from your head/block/gasket, you really shouldn't need to worry about adjusting things until you get to the dyno. As far as ignition timing goes, you could add 1 degree advance to base setting, at 0-0 cam gears settings to even things up before you start tuning on the dyno.