b16 with intake, dc4-1 headers and and exhaust and pulleys. if anyone has a setup like this or close, what did you set your cam gears to????

thanks

 

anybody?

 

There's only one way to find out.

http://www.webcamshafts.com/pages/degreeing.html

 

bc3 users????

 

 

+1080.5, +1080.25

Tizzite!!! Off da shizzle ma hizzle. Yay yay. Westsiide!!

 

what tha is that???? i installed the cams and now it bogs when i hit vtec and my cel is on.. i called buddy club and they said to set my timing at 16 btdc and maybe + 1 intake and - 1 exhaust.... any other experience????

 

get tuned.

 

what the rocket master was trying to say is that there is no real way to know what your motor likes unless you strive to get the knowledge you need hands on.

so to be an aid to you in your bogging woes: think of the BC3 non-vtec lobe as a big cam. its not huge but its enough to make your b16 bark for air. whats happenening is that the amount of overlap at idle is robbing your motor of being able to operate between cycles. it cannot pull enough vaccum on the larger cam - perhaps the
ring seal on your motor is tired or the valveseals are older - how your motor
seals up will make a difference.

I reccomend this: first and foremost degree the cams - have a tuner handle it. If
you go +1, -1 that will actual widen the lobe separation angle and thus, make it
worse. There is no real way to know if your 0,0 is actually 0,0. If you have a milled
head or your cam and crank pulley keys are perfectly centered or not - if your timing belt slack is perfect or not, if the machining of the cams are perfectly aligned to the
spec lobe center of the cam or not.

mike belben sells a degreeing fixture and that would help things, I would actually like to have one myself. also there is a danger to spinning the cams too much. I remember Larry Widmer once telling me that anything more then another 7-8 degrees of separation on ITR cams would nick valves. well, taking that into consideration, the BC3 cams are bigger so my reccomendation is that unless you
know, do not advance the intake more than 3 of 10 degrees or retard the cam more
than the remainder of what your intake advance is from 4 total degrees. keep in mind each tooth on a cam gear is 10.2 degrees. so if you see +5/-5 each mark
represents 2 degrees. on gears with +10/-10 each mark is 1 degree. (I say all this
because not all readers here are created equal and I dont want to see people make
a mistake that I helped contribute to.)

if you want better results - the alternate is pulling your head, locking vtec and rotating the pulleys and check v2v. there is a great thread here in all motor, you
can search it out. you can then clay to see if there is enough room for those settings.
also take into consideration rod stretch and heat since these things tend to change.
the amount valvelash changes with heat would be a good indication on how much
things change. .008" on exhaust tends to grow to about .010", .011" for instance when set to spec when cold and then warmed up to temp.

all that being said, if it were my friends car I would do this: I would take the cam
bolts off and put the motor at TDC. I would see where the gears lined up. if everything looks right, I would be sure that the gear is resting on the center of the
keyway before I tq it back down. I would do that for both cams. then I would dial in
+1 through +3, each time making sure the ignition timing was at 17-18btdc with the
connector bridged. if the motor doesnt like -1 on the exhaust, once you find the
advance degree on the intake cam the motor seems to like, try advancing the
exhaust back to 0, then to +1, +2 and see how that helps.

again, I am not telling you settings - only a process to try to attempt to keep more
compression in your motor. also the set screw in the tb and resetting the IACV would
be important as well as clearing your ecu of codes and being sure to check ignition timing with a light - and the service connector bridged. you might also want to varify that your lashes are correct and not too tight or too loose. .007" intake and .008" exhaust is fine for those cams, if I am wrong, someone please correct me. also,
please run a new oem timing belt with cams like this with new valvesprings. be
sure the tension is set up properly.

again I am not telling you settings - only what I would attempt and the process that I would go through to be sure that your motor is doing what its supposed to for drivability and decent power. at best, this is a starting point - unless you take this to a tuner to varify, uphold some of this and take it to the next level you are really only doing about 60% of whats possible with your setup at best IMHO.

if any of this didnt make perfect sense - bring the car to a pro. good luck with your tune

 

i will sum it up for you...

take it to someone that knows if u are asking here u obviously don't

 

THANKS MIKESARR_GSR!!

see why cant people be like this on forums instead of always trying talk crap..
anyways, i definitely understand what your saying. i will check my timing today with the time light and im going to take my mechanics word for it being right on tdc.. i will be setting my ignition timing and im going to play with the cam settings as well today. thats pretty much exactly what the tech guy at buddy club said when i called him last night.

 

MikeSarr_GSR

Hope all is well with you braddah.

 

Nothing ever changes in the all motor forums.....

 

alrite, so far i advanced my intake +2 and exhaust +1 and it seems like the best for now on my butt dyno. it pulls hard till i hit vtec then it kinda slows down then pulls hard again at about 6800 to 7000..... im thinking i need to move my vtec point or something? any buddy club users have any inputs?


i raced a gsr with i/h and he still takes me..... why??????? lol

 

basically the guys are right about properly tuning your cams..
just for the record
in a friends stock b16a2 i/h/e bc3+
dyno tuned.. best setting
+2 intake
0 exaust

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esohsee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

hey ef9_b16a1,

do you know what your friends hp to the wheels was with that set up?

 

you really cant compare dyno numbers from different dynos...

the maha dyno he dynos.. never even measures stock b16a to 160flywheel
a stock b16a dynos there 155-157 flywheel
the car now has 183-185
hks intake-dc sports header-60mm exaust-decat-10.4 c/r-bc3+cams with bdl camgears-fresh motor, good compression

 

OK, assuming that you are using a stock bottom end...

The BC3's are way too big for your setup, I have a built gsr motor with 12:1 compression, and those cams where a bit big for me, I'm using ITR cams now and there is a world of a difference.

But to answer your question about why the car bogs down at vtec, the reason that I have figured out is how much fuel is being dumped at that point, I was actually starving the motor at around the same point, so I got 310cc injectors and got the car tuned and that worked. If you are using stock injectors, swap them out for prelude (to keep cost down) which flow 280-290cc?? that could resolve your issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95egb18c3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, assuming that you are using a stock bottom end...

The BC3's are way too big for your setup, I have a built gsr motor with 12:1 compression, and those cams where a bit big for me, I'm using ITR cams now and there is a world of a difference.

But to answer your question about why the car bogs down at vtec, the reason that I have figured out is how much fuel is being dumped at that point, I was actually starving the motor at around the same point, so I got 310cc injectors and got the car tuned and that worked. If you are using stock injectors, swap them out for prelude (to keep cost down) which flow 280-290cc?? that could resolve your issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>


This is not an informed answer at all. These cams are not too big for the engine and will do well with tuning. They would work fine with 12:1 as well as long as it is tuned properly.

 

If the motor can idle with the cams they are most likely not so out of phase as to cause you to loose power and/or sputter.

Something else is going on. You need to have someone with experience help you. Get someone who has experience with camshaft install and tuning help you.

 

. u dont need 310 injectors to run bc3 in a mildly built b16a
bc3+.. they re not big for the b16a motor...

just TUNE THE CAR.. that simple..
use crome-emulator-wideband, or pay someone to tune the car